New 2001 Expedition AWD Eddie Bauer 5.4L owner with Shuddering at 40 mph

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BTVelocity

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Just bought my 1st Expedition ever! A 2001 AWD Eddie Bauer 5.4L. Bought it 4 months ago. Unfortunately, I fell for the line that goes like this: "it just needs a little tune-up to make the engine run smoother at idle and stop the Shaking at 40 mph….."
It had a roughness at idle that shook the whole vehicle. Also had a violent "engine compartment Shaking" between 40-50 mph. It’s got 204,000 miles. I bought it anyway and have spent the last 4 months working on it in order to recover from this bad choice.
Here's what I've done: New air filter/fuel filter, checked fuel pressure (good), all new spark plugs with 0.054" gaps, all new coils, new PCV valve and all new fuel injectors. New tires/balanced. Checked U-joints, minimal 1 mm movement at one of the front joints. Transmission fluid seems new-ish, clear red, does not smell burnt, good level.
The good thing is that after each major change done above there was significant improvement in the idle, so much so that it is now about 90% normal, much smoother and really smooth/fast acceleration.
My main concern now is the pronounced "shuddering or shaking" of the engine compartment as soon as the RPM's drop from 1800 to 1500 as though at a shifting point in the gears(this occurs at 40 mph). As long as I apply the throttle with the shaking between 40-50 mph, the shaking continues. If I let up on the throttle and coast, the shaking stops.... accelerate again and the shaking restarts (from 40-50 mph).
If I Fly through the acceleration with a heavy pedal (not my normal style), I can zip through 40-50 mph without the shaking. Beyond 50/60/70 mph, all is fine.
Now that nothing I've done tune-up wise has helped the Shaking thing, I'm worried it could be transmission related....
I initially had codes for misfire cyl 4 and 7, as well as lean fuel condition Bank 1. But once all the repairs were done, including the fuel injector replacements, no codes have returned (not that I have driven it much…. don’t want to mess something up worse).
Another tidbit or two: I noticed over the last 2 cold days, the “Shaking” didn’t happen the first time through 40-50 mph, when the engine/trans was cold. There is also a constant moaning/groaning sound that is not affected by RPM changes. I’m thinking pulley?
Sorry for the long post. Seems like a lot of misery to me. Hopefully, some of my new Expedition friends will have some ideas.

Thanks!!!!!

Bill
 

1955moose

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Sometimes it's worth the money, and buy a vehicle that is next to perfect, then let it depreciate from their. That said I'm like you and rescue problem children, thinking I can fix them. You solved a good chunk of your problems so far. You can check harmonic balancer by first making sure the bolt in center is tight. Look at it while accelerating with an assistant holding throttle at vibration rpm. Look for anything unusual. It almost sounds like you do have a transmission/ torque convertor problem. You might want to pull drive shaft from trans, inspect bushing, their was another member that had a worn output shaft bushing that was causing a vibration. While driveshaft is out, I would replace all u joints and bearings on shaft. After that have a machine shop that can check balance of shaft, do so to see if it's out of whack. Beyond that, you may have to pull trans. Good luck, keep us posted what you find. Moose.


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docraymund

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Check for engine noise with an automotive stethoscope. Concentrate on the area of the main bearings. You could have a badly worn engine.
 

1955moose

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Wouldn't that be a bummer, but don't lower end bearings rumble, and knock, and get louder with speed. Not concentrate at a certain rpm or speed?


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BTVelocity

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Moose:

Brilliant suggestion!! When you suggested checking the Harmonic Balancer and looking at the idle at the affected RPM ranges, it caught me by surprise. I hadn't thought about checking how the engine performed with the transmission in park. Well, I finally got a chance to check the RPM ranges, and you nailed it!
At idle, about 800 RPM, there some nuts/bolts/screws in one of the interior door storage pockets that rattle. Between 1000 and 1400, they are quiet. Then from 1500 to 1800 RPM, they rattle again! From 2000 RPM and above, they are quiet again. Haven't been able to get my wife out to run the RPM's up while I watch the Harmonic Balancer yet, but I will as soon as I can. Nothing obvious at idle.
Do these "rattles" at the RPM ranges in question rule out problems with the Torgue Converter/Transmission/Drive Shaft since none of those are engaged while in park?

Looking forward to putting a wrench on the Harmonic Balancer. Is there a torque I should be looking for?

And maybe the groaning noise may be coming from a loosening Harmonic Balancer, per docraymund's comment? We'll see.

Thanks guys!

Bill
 

stamp11127

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What brand of coils did you get? Some brands are reputed junk with owners going back to OEM coils.

Usually when I have a performance issue as you are describing I take the easy diagnosis method. Run the engine at the rpms that are of concern and wait for a code to be logged. I'm lazy, the pcm is another tool in my tool box - plus it is monitoring all sensors on the engine. It "sees" more at one time than I do.

If you have an ir temp gun you can have someone hold the rpm while shooting each exhaust port on the manifold. A decent temp difference will indicate a problem with the cylinder. And dogs / cats can see the red dot and love to chase it....
 
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1955moose

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Sounds like whatever the problem, it's engine related. Wish my heat gun had the red dot, that's funny to watch.


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BTVelocity

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Thanks, stamp11127, for the Temp Gun suggestion. Can I get a good shot at the exhaust ports from the top, or is it best to get the temps from underneath the vehicle?

I also like the idea of giving the PCM a chance to feed me the answer. It hasn't done so in about 40 miles of driving since replacing the fuel injectors, but I don't mind sitting in the vehicle for a while on the bad RPM ranges to see if it throws a code.

Moose, I haven't had a chance to check the Harmonic Balancer bolt, but I'll let you know when I do.

Does anyone know the torque for the Harmonic Balancer bolt?

Thanks again for all the helpful suggestions.
 

1955moose

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118 ft lbs is what I read. If you can get an air/ electric impact in there, hit it tight, you won't strip it at 120lbs.


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stamp11127

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If you pull the inner wheel wells you will be looking at the manifolds.

When you changed coils you also changed the boot and spring (if they didn't come with hte new coils) right?
 
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