It would be nuts to put any new or reman engine it it unless it has some sentimental value, WHICH I DO NOT believe in.
Very few have sentimental that goes beyond another one of same year,model, color.
For instance if one belonged to a family member or you had it in HS etc...Who cares..Well I don't. Give me one just like it, same year and color but in better shape.
I have owned a lot of classic, antique, muscle, and weird vehicles and some were my "baby" or pride and joy when I had them. Guess what. I don't have any of them anymore. I have one special car and if you gave me a better one with lower miles, better paint, or faster etc..I would pour gas on this one and light it up.
I just sold the car I rode home from the hospital when I was born.
I don't remember the ride!!! lol
It sat for 17 years and we got it out when I was 14 and put a lot of time and work into it.
Got it running, painted it, chromed all the chrome, drove it to car shows...I learned to drive on it at 14 and 15. Took it to high school 2-3 times."
Then it sat for too long and deteriorated a bit. Still ran well though. "
Sold it for not a lot of money and I don't miss it.
I'm just not into traditions or sentimentality.
The only feasible economic fix is a used motor from junk yard, craigslist or FB marketplace.
I put a V10 with 110K in my excursion in aug of 2014 for less than 600.00 That was including buying the 100.00 harbor freight engine hoist and 40 stand. I got the trans with the engine for cheap so I recouped a bunch when I sold trans in 3 days on craigslist.
You can buy plenty of 99-2003 expeditions all day long for 1700-3000.
As Adieu said, you can get a much newer, lower mile SUV for the money you will put in a new engine.
Plus you sell yours for scrap (lowest price) for about 400-425 or sell on marketplace for parts or repair (more money). List it at 600-800 and take first 500-600 cash that someone has in hand and let them tow it away.
Win win.
I just sold a 2000 Grand Am with 168K on it with bypassed heater core, missing back glass, missing driver door mirror, and busted rear brake line (clamped off. driveable with front brakes only) in 10 hours for 400.
He had a nice one with a rod knocking in engine and he just wanted engine and was going to keep trans and junk the rest.
He gives me 400. Sells trans for 125-175, gets 250 for scrap metal.....He has free engine and possibly makes money.
That's the only way to do it with old cars or they become a money pit that you will never get out what you have put in.
I make money on almost every vehicle I mess with, or at least I get my money's worth.
i buy them cheap and I drive them until the wheels fall off and put little to no money into them. When they will no longer transport me, I sell for under 500 or sell for scrap metal.
If you do the math of how many years you use one for transportation....it comes out VERY cheap per week.
What is it worth per week to have a vehicle to hop in and drive when you want or need to??
I think anything that is dependable is worth a minimum of $20 a week.
So that is 1200 a year.
I bought my wife's last one, a 2000 Expedition, In super clean condition BUT 193K on it for 2000.
I don't count oil changes or tires unless you buy one with bald ones so you have to put them on right away, because any car will need oil changes, wiper blades and tires.
Had it almost 7 years and put 60K on it. Total repairs= 333.00 That's lower than some because it had a brand new battery and duralast gold new alternator when we bought it and batt is still in there and when alt went out (only 30K out of it --sad quality but easy replace) let's just say I have a lot of commercial accounts and connections with the parts stores and I got it warranted and also had the original purchaser's info and warranty came right up, one set of front and one set of rear pads. Warranted fronts at lest once since I bought the set, upper control arm on pass side (bad ball joint) and rt side hub bearing assembly, plus changed gear lube in front and back diffs and changed transfer case fluid as well, new lower trailing arms (ebay 96.00) when we got it, 2 COPS replaced with good used ones I have around so nothing there. Same plugs in it as day we got it.
That's it 333.00
2333.00 in vehicle. 7 years. That's 333 a year...6.40 A WEEK for it.
I equate a vehicle to be worth 20 a week so that is 7280 for 7 years...
THEN I sold it for 700.00.
2333-700=1633
7280-1633=5647 ahead of my willing to pay 20 a week for a vehicle.
It cost me 233 a year to have it. The insurance cost me a little more than that!!
I did the same with a 98 town car I had for 6 years that I bought for 2760.00 and put 75K on it.
Sometimes it's not near as pretty If you have a big failure. But you have to fix them yourself or find someone (not an overpriced shop....so NOT A SHOP) to fix them for you.
The Grand Am was a 600 car for son. He got 9 months from it until a great deal on another one came our way.
I put no money into Grand am but a front set of pads.
One used tire I already had in shed. Sold for 400 just to get out of way. I could have held out for 5-550 but just wanted the parking place for his new one.
9 months is 36 weeks X $20 is 720 value.
720-400=320 + pads 24= 344 total cost of car for 9 months.
720 value for any car 344= 376 a head
So the car was free and someone gave me 376.00 to have it for 9 months...Since I am willing to pay 20 a week for a car that works.
There are guys and even smaller privately owned shops that will swap an engine in that for 600-800 labor. You can find them often for 350-600.
As long as you don't go crazy or let a mechanic go crazy replacing things "while it's out"
you could get it back on the road for a little cheaper than you can go buy a comparable one ( or even fewer miles) for....BUT you have the down time and aggravation.
It would be much easier and more fun to take 2-3 days and go look and test drive PRIVATE OWNER vehicles until and find one you like. Then swap the insurance and plates and enjoy!!!
