No brake pedal 1997 expedition

[Steve Lowenberg]

Hi all, well I lost brakes and discovered left front rubber brake line at caliper broke completely, so that was the problem. But shouldn’t the proportioning valve have isolated the front and would still have rear brakes?.
But I have nothing?
So when I replace that line and go to bleed, will it work?
Ya know the last time I bled these brakes, it still was spongy, I think because I did not know how to bleed abs
Module, so didn’t. Would that have anything to do with this latest issue?
Thank so much

 

[Trainmaster]

You should have had rear brakes, though they would be noticeably inferior to the front in stopping power.

That's why there's a dual master cylinder. Two separate systems. Maybe you never had back brakes at all because they weren't bled properly back then and have air in the rear lines.

On a 97, I'd replace all three brake hoses and get a good look at all the lines, especially above the fuel tank where they sometimes rust while I'm doing work.

If you're looking for a project, check out the parking brake, and replace all the long-rusted stuff in there. You might need it.

The thing's 25 years old. Classic.

 

[Steve Lowenberg]

Ya, I think a lot of the lines need replacing. I am going to go out and see if in can disconnect this broken line without breaking the one it’s connected too, because it looks as though it’s ready to rust away. And just to make matters worse, this break line broke the very day daughter called and said her heater core was leaking. Mist on the windshield with sweet smell in the air.
Believe me, i know what that job entails, because i replaced it and the blend door on this truck about 3 years ago.
250,000 miles, i am considering no more work, seriously. I like the truck, but living in a rust belt of Wisconsin, salt just destroys.
I do think that maybe i didn’t have back breaks, because of the spongy pedal i have had. If i can get the line off, it would only be about $20 at rock auto. Someone on youtube showed how to bleed the ABS unit by activating the abs driving thru a field(safe environment), hitting the bakes to activate abs and then re bleeding whole system. Any truth to that?? Poor mans method? I have plenty of places by me to do that.

 

[Plati]

You should have had rear brakes, though they would be noticeably inferior to the front in stopping power.

That's why there's a dual master cylinder. Two separate systems. Maybe you never had back brakes at all because they weren't bled properly back then and have air in the rear lines.

On a 97, I'd replace all three brake hoses and get a good look at all the lines, especially above the fuel tank where they sometimes rust while I'm doing work.

If you're looking for a project, check out the parking brake, and replace all the long-rusted stuff in there. You might need it.

The thing's 25 years old. Classic.

Before working on the ebrake ... find out if you can buy the parts.
I've seen reports that some of the parts are no longer available for purchase.

When I blew a front brake line ... couple months back ... 2003 XLT
(in my case it was the metal line)
I had no brakes as far as I could tell, front or rear.
The rear brakes are .... so much less than front.

 

[Steve Lowenberg]

The line from abs to flex line to caliper also broke when trying to loosed. I could tell it would, just by the rust. So the question is how do i bleed abs unit, or does it need it. I want to do it at home on the cheap side. Any ideas?
Thanks so much!

 

[Yupster Dog]

The line from abs to flex line to caliper also broke when trying to loosed. I could tell it would, just by the rust. So the question is how do i bleed abs unit, or does it need it. I want to do it at home on the cheap side. Any ideas?
Thanks so much!

Get everything back together and bleed normally.
Furthest caliper away (from the master cylinder) first and work your way from there.

 

[MXer746]

Yeah...did that too, still goes to the floor, Bleed thru about 1/2 gallon of brake fluid. Started at the RR, then LR, then RF, then LF...no help. Gets even worse when I start the engine. Tried jacking up the whole thing off the ground and putting it in drive and braking half way thinking it would activate the ABS pump...no help. Tried a one-man-bleeder...no help. Convinced the ABS has air, as the master cylinder went dry when I had to change both front brake calipers, and the Left one sat overnight with the banjo bolt out and just draining. I've also heard that the ABS pump/assy can go bad if just trying to push the caliper pistons back with a C-clamp. Does anyone know if that's true? Did I screw up my ABS assembly? This is a 1998 4X4 with a 5.4L