Oil analysis results: 0-5K and 5K-10K

[MxRacer965]

I haven't used the search feature to see if anyone has posted results of their oil analysis or if anyone else has done them right away, so figured I'd share.

I had blackstone labs do an analysis at 5K miles on my Expedition as well as at 10K. Changed the factory oil at 5K because I figured it would have a bunch of "junk" in it. Did it again at 10K. Obviously factory fill was the first analysis, second was with Mobil 1. I'll probably go another 5K and see how things are settling in at that point and make the determination if I should go the full 10K between changes or try something more intermediate like 7,500.

I've been getting oil analyzed for the wife's MKS since it has the 3.7 Duratec with the internal water pump, figured if I start to see any signs of water I'll have the pump replaced. For the Expedition I'll probably do it for a bit and then maybe I'll do it every couple changes once I know the "best" interval. I do my own changes (obviously) so for $35 or so with oil and filter (Mobil 1 oil/FoMoCo filter) I can spring for the extra $30 for an oil analysis and it still costs less than going to Iffy Lube.

Anyway, enjoy

 

[JasonH]

Thanks for sharing. I posted one for an 87K sample on my 2017 EL (Gen 1) Ecoboost, and another that I'm awaiting results on around 107K. Should be interesting because the OLM let the oil go around 9,500 miles. I'll share when it comes in, should be within the next week.

 

[Deadman]

I always say fresh oil is cheap, I'm not running oil for any extended periods. I dumped my factory oil at 2,000 miles to fresh the debris out.

 

[LokiWolf]

I haven't used the search feature to see if anyone has posted results of their oil analysis or if anyone else has done them right away, so figured I'd share.

I had blackstone labs do an analysis at 5K miles on my Expedition as well as at 10K. Changed the factory oil at 5K because I figured it would have a bunch of "junk" in it. Did it again at 10K. Obviously factory fill was the first analysis, second was with Mobil 1. I'll probably go another 5K and see how things are settling in at that point and make the determination if I should go the full 10K between changes or try something more intermediate like 7,500.

I've been getting oil analyzed for the wife's MKS since it has the 3.7 Duratec with the internal water pump, figured if I start to see any signs of water I'll have the pump replaced. For the Expedition I'll probably do it for a bit and then maybe I'll do it every couple changes once I know the "best" interval. I do my own changes (obviously) so for $35 or so with oil and filter (Mobil 1 oil/FoMoCo filter) I can spring for the extra $30 for an oil analysis and it still costs less than going to Iffy Lube.

Anyway, enjoy

View attachment 38899

View attachment 38900

Great Data!

 

[Fozzy]

Nice info, I would never run my Ecoboost over 5K. But that’s just me and my preference. But I would love to see a 10K sample.that could change my mind. With the COVID I have only put 5K on my Expy this year. [emoji3525]


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[Vipersinu2]

I dont have to worry about any testing.
I dont have any oil left to test!
This black oil is after 2500 miles and a little over full on the stick when topped off last.

15,000 on truck

 

[5280tunage]

So this brings up a question I've had since I did my last (and first) oil change on this rig. Is there a steadfast routine that I should follow, from what I hear, these engines like to hang on to oil in lots of crevices when doing oil changes. I literally let the thing drip for probably 20 minutes, but I know for a fact no where near the 6qts that was "supposed" to be in there was there. I put in 6qts but it was too full, I ended up having to drain some right away, which tells me there was still a fair amount in it.

For 20+ years I've only been using Mobil1 or Royal Purple (purple for some of my hard use off road rigs), and only Mobil1, K&N, or Purple filters. Never failed me before.

In my last vehicle I decided not to use any of the BG products, had no issues, anyone use them in these 3.5's with any issues or noticeable success? I see the Ford dealers are selling it a lot.

 

[Dice Roll]

Interesting that factory fill is low on viscosity. Wonder how dealer bulk oil holds up?

 

[Paul M]

So this brings up a question I've had since I did my last (and first) oil change on this rig. Is there a steadfast routine that I should follow, from what I hear, these engines like to hang on to oil in lots of crevices when doing oil changes. I literally let the thing drip for probably 20 minutes, but I know for a fact no where near the 6qts that was "supposed" to be in there was there. I put in 6qts but it was too full, I ended up having to drain some right away, which tells me there was still a fair amount in it.

For 20+ years I've only been using Mobil1 or Royal Purple (purple for some of my hard use off road rigs), and only Mobil1, K&N, or Purple filters. Never failed me before.

In my last vehicle I decided not to use any of the BG products, had no issues, anyone use them in these 3.5's with any issues or noticeable success? I see the Ford dealers are selling it a lot.

I recently retired my 2011 F150 Lariat 4x4 with the first generation 3.5 eco boost at 260,000 plus miles (and bought the new Expedition). I've always used Mobil1 and BG MOA additive at each change. The truck was still running strong and always used 1/2 quart during the 5K change interval from the first oil change to the last. At 225K I replaced the water pump. The auto A/C started to randomly tell me what temp I needed to be, the passenger heated seat worked about whenever it felt like it (which is NOT a way to make the wife happy), and a few other computer dash type glitches made me think I was about to put a lot of cash in it. The miles worried her although I've never traded or replaced a vehicle under 350K miles. We're also semi retired and traveling more and surprisingly the wife freaking loved the Expedition test drive.

Short version: I rack up a bunch of miles and always have done 5K between oil changes with BG MOA and have never had to crack an engine for a repair.

 

[MxRacer965]

So this brings up a question I've had since I did my last (and first) oil change on this rig. Is there a steadfast routine that I should follow, from what I hear, these engines like to hang on to oil in lots of crevices when doing oil changes. I literally let the thing drip for probably 20 minutes, but I know for a fact no where near the 6qts that was "supposed" to be in there was there. I put in 6qts but it was too full, I ended up having to drain some right away, which tells me there was still a fair amount in it.

For 20+ years I've only been using Mobil1 or Royal Purple (purple for some of my hard use off road rigs), and only Mobil1, K&N, or Purple filters. Never failed me before.

In my last vehicle I decided not to use any of the BG products, had no issues, anyone use them in these 3.5's with any issues or noticeable success? I see the Ford dealers are selling it a lot.

I didn’t let it drain for that long, and when I put 6 qt in it was fine ‍

 

[MxRacer965]

Interesting that factory fill is low on viscosity. Wonder how dealer bulk oil holds up?

Good question. One that I won’t be able to answer though, I have zero intention of using a dealer or lube shop do this. Lowest skilled, lowest paid (I assume on both of these) person doing the most frequent maintenance activity...somewhere along the way something isn’t going to be done right. Bolts left off the cover. Over tightened drain bolt. Too loose/too tight filter. Wrong filter. Wrong oil. No thanks. I’ll just do it myself. I have very little faith in most people honestly. Want something done right, do it yourself. Heck, the Grand Cherokee I owned before this I traded to the dealer, then my dad decided he should have bought it from me and got it back from the dealer. They changed the oil even though I had just done a change with Mobil 1 500 miles prior. When it came time for me to change the oil I could not get the filter off! It took me an hour of screwing around and applying pressure to finally loosen it. Affirmed my distrust for lubies...

 

[techdude99]

Here's my first interval analysis at 7,600 miles on the factory oil. The majority of these miles were towing my 4000lb track car and 1500lb trailer with spare wheels and tools in the Expedition.

 

[JasonH]

Blackstone results came in today. This sample had between 2,000 and 3,000 miles of towing.

 

[chaffdb]

I decided to do the first oil change early on our '22, as discussed elsewhere on here, and did it at just 991 miles. The oil analysis below seems to show that wasn't a terrible idea to get that stuff out of there, but it's interesting to see how similar it is to some of those that went much longer on the factory fill.

I have used Blackstone only in the past for several years, but due to cost and reading about fuel dilution testing accuracy, not to mention curiosity, I decided to try Oil Analyzers/Polaris and do a comparison. The cost difference wasn't much, but OA was a little cheaper when several tests were purchased together through Amsoil.

Oil was collected as close together as possible during the drain, literally back to back in mid-drain. In hindsight I should have mixed the samples and divided to try to guarantee they were as close to identical as possible, but I did not. They were mailed the same day (10/3) and OA results were emailed to me first on 10/14. Blackstone results took another 6 days, and were emailed on 10/20. I also received a paper copy from OA later.

Sorry for the poor copy of the OA report. I couldn't redact it in Adobe as I could the Blackstone, didn't get a good scan of it, and was too lazy to go back and do it again.

While many things are very similar or the same, here are the differences:

Iron - OA 1ppm higher
Nickel - OA 1ppm higher (Blackstone 0)
Aluminum - Blackstone 4ppm higher
Copper - Blackstone 1ppm higher
Lead - OA 1ppm higher
Tin - OA 1ppm higher (Blackstone 0)
Silicon - Blackstone 13ppm higher
Sodium - Blackstone 4ppm higher
Molybdenum - Blackstone 5ppm higher
Antimony - Blackstone doesn't test for it, OA found 2ppm
Lithium - Blackstone doesn't test for it, OA found 1ppm
Boron - Blackstone 7ppm higher
Magnesium - Blackstone 65ppm higher
Calcium - Blackstone 146ppm higher
Barium - OA 1ppm higher
Phosphorus - Blackstone 80ppm higher
Zinc - Blackstone 53 ppm higher
Blackstone doesn't test for Cadmium, either, but none was found
Fuel Dilution - Blackstone says <.5%, OA says 2.6%
Viscosity - 8.6 for OA / 8.68 for Blackstone
TBN - 2.85 (slightly low) for OA / 5.4 for Blackstone
OA also provides oxidation and nitration.
Blackstone provides Viscosity @ 210 degrees

I have mixed thoughts on the differences. OA found some stuff Blackstone did not, but generally when the differences were more than 1 or 2 ppm, it was Blackstone with the higher numbers so maybe their testing is a little more sensitive? Or maybe my samples weren't identical? Of course the fuel dilution and TBN differences are noted and somewhat concerning. I tend to believe OA's fuel dilution is more accurate. As for TBN, both use D4739, so I am not sure why the difference is so great.

I'm coming up on 4k miles now and am thinking about doing a second change and having it analyzed, too. What can I say, I'm curious. Not sure if I will use both labs or not this time, but I do think I will do this again at some point.

Hope this info is helpful to someone.

 

[keny01998]

I always use synthetic oil like Penzoil Ultra or Platinum and change it every 5k miles. I dumped my factory oil at 1500 miles since oil is cheap

 

[MxRacer965]

Forgot all about this thread!

Here is my latest change. I let it go until the OLM said to change the oil. I changed in 5K intervals until this change - so 5, 10, 15, and 20….then this nearly 30.