Oil servicing

[djhl]

Recently bought 2002 w/the 5.4L engine. Only 50000 miles. Main reason I bought it. Previous owner said he had local garage change oil every 10000 miles. Seems a big/long interval to me. Had oil changed when bought it. Shop used "bulk oil" (their paperwork term) and a std NAPA filter. Now have been reading threads that speak some about oil to use, the type of oil filter (anti drain back valve) and of the timing chain oiling issue, which I seem to have off and on. When does occur, rattles for 5-10 secs shortly after start up then all is good. So, any comments or suggestions? Should I go have "better" oil used and the better filter? Would such a "short interval" change do anything for the timing chain issue? We are at sea level, plan to use car to putter around, use its volume to haul some relatively light stuff. An occasional trip up to 4000ft high park. Car was a rental for first couple years, so most mileage was done early on in its life.

 

[99WhiteC5Coupe]

My two cents after owning and servicing my own vehicles for more than 45 years - I only use the OEM manufacturer’s filters (oil, air, fuel, PCV, transmission, etc). They are NOT much more expensive and I have always believed they were designed specifically for the application.

I know there are those that swear by a certain brand of aftermarket filters - and have driven a bazillion million miles with them. Not me.

I use OEM filters.

 

[Habbibie]

That rattle for 5-10 second is your oil pressured chain tensioner not getting enough oil in time, it's due to one of two things either the gasket on the tensioner itself is bad (highly likely) or your oil pump is failing (least likely), it's just not getting enough oil fast enough, my strongest suggestion to you as a friend is to fix that problem asap it will eventually lead to complete engine failure

Now 5 oil changes in 16 years is a sad excuse to being a cheapskate or procrastination at its finest. If you change your oil twice a year you're doing it a huge favor there alone I don't care what oil or filter u use its hella better than a one oil change every 3 YEARS throughout the entire life of the car

 

[1955moose]

Habbibie nailed it! We go round and round on the oil change issue. The bulk oil is basic non synthetic oil. It is fine in 5/30/5/20 weight. The problem is the previous owner not driving much, on an island kinda hard to rack up a lot of miles. That and a ton of miles in between oil changes. My 2000, which had 64k, and now is close to 100k never had noise on start up, and I use Fram filters. The ones that members bash. I run full synthetic Mobil 1 5/30, and change every 5-6k. A Ford filter is less than $5.00 and probably your best bet. And yes I'd pull it apart to fix, before it gets away from you on damage.

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[Flexpedition]

Shop used "bulk oil" (their paperwork term) and a std NAPA filter. Now have been reading threads that speak some about oil to use, the type of oil filter (anti drain back valve).

FYI, bulk oil just means it came out of a drum. Not individual quarts or a 4 qt jug. Havoline 5w20 in a quart is Havoline 5w20 in a gallon jug is Havoline 5w20 in a 55 gallon drum (ie: bulk).

Oil producers offer every brand and formula in bulk. Saves the shops money. If you wan Mobile 1 5W30 in bulk, here it is on Amazon. Anyone can buy it. Works out to about $7 a qt.
https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-98E682...31854214&sr=8-10&keywords=55+gallon+motor+oil


And its very difficult, if not impossible, to find an oil filter specified for this vehicle that doesn't have a anti drain back valve. Every NAPA branded filter has one. Its not just a Motorcraft thing. Motorcraft is among the least expensive, but they all have same valves.

 

[djhl]

Thanks for all good info. As regards the "clatter" - have additional info which has me wondering - was doing a code check (using my new ODPII scanner) and noticed I got the clatter for few seconds when I turned the key to ignition on (not start) per the instructions to read the codes. Not being a auto mech - if its a timing chain tensioner problem, wouldn't that only happen after the engine has started with the chain turning and oil pressure coming up from the oil pump? Am I missing something? The only code I get is the one that says I got a leak in the EVAP emissions system. Am really stretching, but could that cause a clatter?

 

[Trainmaster]

If nothing in the engine's moving, and you hear clattering, it isn't the timing chain. The only noise you should hear when you turn the key to on is the fuel pump, which is in the tank. Perhaps your heater was on and the clatter was the heater motor which is energized when you turn the key to "on".

By the way, Amazon also sells Motorcraft synthetic and semi-synthetic in 6 gallon bulk "bag in box" containers. Last time I paid about $85 for six gallons of full synthetic. Motorcraft oil filters are less than $4 at Walmart.

 

[1955moose]

Clatter with key on engine off, is definitely not tensioners, or anything with the timing chains. Good news for you, but now you have to start your diagnostic back at beginning. Try to have an assistant listen when you make that noise, to narrow it down.

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[1997SCEBFEX]

if low miles are the norm due to "island" life and perhaps lots of idling/stop-go; i'd go to annual oil changes; my .02.

 

[djhl]

Thanks for info.

Could the fuel pump create that clatter when energized?

The heat/cool control may well have been left in AC from previous trip(s). And that would turn on its fan, I believe? Will pay attention next time(s).

Will try to recruit wife as "assistant".

I definitely will be changing oil much more often than past owner said he did. Used 4000 to 5000 miles gouge on previous car, which was 1 to 2 times a year.

Wife loves visibility. We get our cardio workout climbing in and out.