Oil servicing

[djhl]

Recently bought 2002 w/the 5.4L engine. Only 50000 miles. Main reason I bought it. Previous owner said he had local garage change oil every 10000 miles. Seems a big/long interval to me. Had oil changed when bought it. Shop used "bulk oil" (their paperwork term) and a std NAPA filter. Now have been reading threads that speak some about oil to use, the type of oil filter (anti drain back valve) and of the timing chain oiling issue, which I seem to have off and on. When does occur, rattles for 5-10 secs shortly after start up then all is good. So, any comments or suggestions? Should I go have "better" oil used and the better filter? Would such a "short interval" change do anything for the timing chain issue? We are at sea level, plan to use car to putter around, use its volume to haul some relatively light stuff. An occasional trip up to 4000ft high park. Car was a rental for first couple years, so most mileage was done early on in its life.

 

[99WhiteC5Coupe]

My two cents after owning and servicing my own vehicles for more than 45 years - I only use the OEM manufacturer’s filters (oil, air, fuel, PCV, transmission, etc). They are NOT much more expensive and I have always believed they were designed specifically for the application.

I know there are those that swear by a certain brand of aftermarket filters - and have driven a bazillion million miles with them. Not me.

I use OEM filters.

 

[Habbibie]

That rattle for 5-10 second is your oil pressured chain tensioner not getting enough oil in time, it's due to one of two things either the gasket on the tensioner itself is bad (highly likely) or your oil pump is failing (least likely), it's just not getting enough oil fast enough, my strongest suggestion to you as a friend is to fix that problem asap it will eventually lead to complete engine failure

Now 5 oil changes in 16 years is a sad excuse to being a cheapskate or procrastination at its finest. If you change your oil twice a year you're doing it a huge favor there alone I don't care what oil or filter u use its hella better than a one oil change every 3 YEARS throughout the entire life of the car

 

[1955moose]

Habbibie nailed it! We go round and round on the oil change issue. The bulk oil is basic non synthetic oil. It is fine in 5/30/5/20 weight. The problem is the previous owner not driving much, on an island kinda hard to rack up a lot of miles. That and a ton of miles in between oil changes. My 2000, which had 64k, and now is close to 100k never had noise on start up, and I use Fram filters. The ones that members bash. I run full synthetic Mobil 1 5/30, and change every 5-6k. A Ford filter is less than $5.00 and probably your best bet. And yes I'd pull it apart to fix, before it gets away from you on damage.

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[Flexpedition]

Shop used "bulk oil" (their paperwork term) and a std NAPA filter. Now have been reading threads that speak some about oil to use, the type of oil filter (anti drain back valve).

FYI, bulk oil just means it came out of a drum. Not individual quarts or a 4 qt jug. Havoline 5w20 in a quart is Havoline 5w20 in a gallon jug is Havoline 5w20 in a 55 gallon drum (ie: bulk).

Oil producers offer every brand and formula in bulk. Saves the shops money. If you wan Mobile 1 5W30 in bulk, here it is on Amazon. Anyone can buy it. Works out to about $7 a qt.
https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-98E682...31854214&sr=8-10&keywords=55+gallon+motor+oil


And its very difficult, if not impossible, to find an oil filter specified for this vehicle that doesn't have a anti drain back valve. Every NAPA branded filter has one. Its not just a Motorcraft thing. Motorcraft is among the least expensive, but they all have same valves.

 

[djhl]

Thanks for all good info. As regards the "clatter" - have additional info which has me wondering - was doing a code check (using my new ODPII scanner) and noticed I got the clatter for few seconds when I turned the key to ignition on (not start) per the instructions to read the codes. Not being a auto mech - if its a timing chain tensioner problem, wouldn't that only happen after the engine has started with the chain turning and oil pressure coming up from the oil pump? Am I missing something? The only code I get is the one that says I got a leak in the EVAP emissions system. Am really stretching, but could that cause a clatter?

 

[Trainmaster]

If nothing in the engine's moving, and you hear clattering, it isn't the timing chain. The only noise you should hear when you turn the key to on is the fuel pump, which is in the tank. Perhaps your heater was on and the clatter was the heater motor which is energized when you turn the key to "on".

By the way, Amazon also sells Motorcraft synthetic and semi-synthetic in 6 gallon bulk "bag in box" containers. Last time I paid about $85 for six gallons of full synthetic. Motorcraft oil filters are less than $4 at Walmart.

 

[1955moose]

Clatter with key on engine off, is definitely not tensioners, or anything with the timing chains. Good news for you, but now you have to start your diagnostic back at beginning. Try to have an assistant listen when you make that noise, to narrow it down.

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[1997SCEBFEX]

if low miles are the norm due to "island" life and perhaps lots of idling/stop-go; i'd go to annual oil changes; my .02.

 

[djhl]

Thanks for info.

Could the fuel pump create that clatter when energized?

The heat/cool control may well have been left in AC from previous trip(s). And that would turn on its fan, I believe? Will pay attention next time(s).

Will try to recruit wife as "assistant".

I definitely will be changing oil much more often than past owner said he did. Used 4000 to 5000 miles gouge on previous car, which was 1 to 2 times a year.

Wife loves visibility. We get our cardio workout climbing in and out.

 

[1955moose]

A 2003 5.4 4x4 should get 12-13 city,16-18 straight highway. My 2000 is rated at 11 city, I get 9 1/2 to 10, 15 straight highway. My slight drop is partly due to bigger 20 inch wheels. A 2 wheel drive 2003 5.4 should bump to 14-15 city. Either way your not going to pass emissions. Did your Dealer smog your Suv? If so how did it pass burning that rich. Habbibie is the only other member with a 7 mpg wonder. Looks like you have another item to fix!

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[1955moose]

If in fact the rattle is coming from the fuel tank, its possible that some gravel got passed through the fuel filler, and got sucked into the pump. The chances are slim, as your pump has a screen to keep items out. Again you'll need to pinpoint area where you hear noise.

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[rjdelp7]

A local shop in my area, does oil changes and light work. I saw a mechanic fill a jug, from a 55 gal drum. Curious, I looked at the label. It was conventional 10W30 and vehicle was a newer Ford Taurus. I said, doesn't that car, call for synthetic blend 5w20, like most new Fords, The mechanic said we use this(10w30) in everything. You engine should have 5w20 or 5w30. Thick/heavy oil, is bad, especially at start up. Small shops, also use el-cheapo filters. Beware! The good news is the 1st gen 5.4l/4.6l is a practically indestructible motor. It does not have cam phasers. Keep it full and use 5w30(insist shop uses it).

 

[1955moose]

My old friend Carl and I were kicking around oil filters and drain back valves. He said and I concurred due to the fact that the filter is mounted at 90 degrees, and only holds 1/2 quart of oil, what's the big deal. You've got 5 1/2 quarts of oil in an oil pan at cold start up, and the remaining 1/2 in the filter. Very little oil can leak out of filter after shutdown. On top of that at cold startup the pump starts pumping immediately. Oil clings to cylinder walls, and other critical items like cam lobes overnight. More critical than to drain back valve or not to drain back, is to have the proper amount, and proper viscosity. Too thick of an oil will cause a flow problem in colder weather, below 40 degrees. As far as why most if not all manufactures use or recommend semi or full synthetic oil, is longer duration oil changes. Heck Jaguar recommends 15k with semi synthetic. Regular non synthetic would probably work fine, but would have to changed every 3 k. What kills me is except for paid maintenance, dealers and shops make their money on service, why wouldn't they drop, not raise their intervals. When I ran a Motorcycle dealer about 20 years back, Suzuki had a valve clearance check at 600 miles, along with oil change. That was a very pricey first service, but was required for warranty to be in effect.

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[Bruce Mitchell]

I have LOF (lube, oil, filter) service done every 3-4K miles. I use Pennzoil 5W-30 High Mileage and a Fram filter. Cheap and easy way to treat the old girl nice.

 

[djhl]

Place I had oil changed was a Midas, one of the bigger shops in area. Their paperwork said they used 5W20 which is per the owners manual and on the car oil cap, so I am pretty sure that's what I have.

The "clatter" is hard to find as its intermittent. Can't seem to find any pattern to it. Sometimes when I stop at ignition (not go directly to start) I hear it, sometimes not. When I go directly to start same intermittency (Is that a word?) Question; when I just go to ignition, I see it takes a few seconds for the fuel quantity to come up and the fuel low light to go out, and again sometimes I hear a low short "clunk" when they do go out. Is that a clue, of some sort?

 

[1955moose]

The pump and the fuel sending unit are mounted right next to each other, and unfortunately in the tank. Best advice for now is put up with it. But somewhere down the road, your going to have to replace them. Don't cheap out though, buy the Ford unit, as sure as heck you don't want to repeat that job twice. Nothing will ruin your day like 10 or more gallons sloshing around, and spills on you.

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[Trainmaster]

Manufacturers are under marketing pressure to increase their oil change intervals. There are untold legions of fools who shop for cars based on "recommended maintenance cost". They'll buy a crappy 4 cylinder import because Car and Driver says it has the lowest recommended maintenance cost.

Never mind that Toyotas give up piston rings at 80,000 miles.

 

[1955moose]

It's like the lower income individual that buys the cheapest new car, because they could get financed even with horrible credit. The smarter moneys on buying a higher model that's say 2-4 years old and low mileage. But alas they don't, and those cheezy entry models take a dump at 80-100 k, compounded by the long service intervals, their doomed from the minute they roll off the lot.

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[djhl]

RE "the clatter" - I am originator of thread. As clatter got a bit longer (to 10 sec from about 5 sec, but still not on every start), wife insisted we take in to Ford dealer. They got the clatter and said its the rear-air-suspension system air compressor, located up on pax side forward in engine compartment under the coolant reservour .

I got a written estimate to replace the compressor "mounting bracket" for much money, and a verbal input from the Tech and Service Rep to just live with it as it was/is not a safety problem. That mounting bracket story sounded a bit hokey to me, but I appreciate they did not try to strong arm me into an expensive fix.

Found lots of threads on this forum which talk about the air suspension system and its parts. So got some knowledge. Lots of info about that compressor failing due to near continual operation for example, but I am not there now. As we are on volcanic island, car is often not parked "on the level", which I am led to believe that is one thing the air suspension tries to do. My overnight parking spot is on a slight slope. Also have found there are many places to order/get a replacement air compressor.

Having said all that, does what they (the Ford dealership people) said ring true with you guys with experience? Looking forward to some feedback.