P0172 with P0174 after changing COP/Plug for P0301

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BRIANGEE

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Actually just remembered I had these on my phone - hopefully they're good enough:

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The inner tray happens to fit in at an angle, sloping down, so when I pour baby oil in it all runs down and pools at the coal. Put on the lid, hook up your hoses and you're good to go.
 

1955moose

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It's only 10 minutes before 11:00am, but damn I want popcorn. Brian hang out even though you don't have an Expedition. Your advice is sound . ,And by the way Moose's have fuzzy antlers, not feathers! Talk soon Brian, Moose.

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outdare

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Check the air filter intake hose. Make sure all the connections are tight. Push down on your fuel rail on the lean side. Might have been knocked a little when changing the plugs. Starter fluid works for finding leaks but can be problematic with the chance of fire. Only other thing I can think of is the pcv valve. I think you went through all this just throwing it out there to see if it sticks. I have seen a egr valve crack and cause issues. It was hard to spot as the hose nipple was broken but not off.

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1955moose

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Smoking a motor through large hose connection on brake booster is quickest, but you can use a propane bottle and hose, or slowest is carb clean. Safe as long as you don't have open flame. I've even used wd 40, but a little messier. They all suck into intake leak, and smooth out motor when you hit spot of leak.

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Transporter, do you have access to a scanner that can show fuel trims and 02 sensor data? That would work wonders in helping diagnose your situation!


Do you know off hand if any of the ODBII BT dongles have that capability and which App they work best with? I have an iPhone as my primary smartphone, but just bought a used Android Note 8 to use with a driving App so I now have access to Android if that is where I need to get the App. I bought a RioRand RD9 off Amazon a few years ago, it was supposed to be genuine and with the latest chipset. Turns out is was a Chinese copy with an older chip. It does the basic functions, will read and clear codes, has a nice graphics display via Blue Tooth to the better half's Kindle Fire of RPM, Mileage, Water and Oil Temp, Load, and other operating info that would be in a vehicle with a full dash of gauges. Because it is a copy with the older chip, it doesn't read/test O2 sensor or fuel trims. I have been gun shy to order another one.

Recommendations from anybody for a BT or WiFi OBDII dongle and App that tests O2 Sensor and shows fuel trims?
.
 
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Additional:

My Big Banana OBDII on Live Data says:
Fuel System Status Bank1:
CL, using HO2S
Fuel System Status Bank2:
N/A
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank1 +0.8%
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank2 -1.6%

These Live readings are at Idle as I took a picture of them so I would be able to post them.

Does this give us a clue or direction to look?
 

outdare

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You can try to unplug the MAF and let the truck go use default settings. This would eliminate a faulty MAF. Low fuel pressure my cause this issue. Have you changed the fuel filter? Continue to check the vacuum lines.

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BRIANGEE

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Transporter, I'm not familiar w/ the wireless stuff so can't help you there.

What do your long term fuel trims look like (LTFT1 & LTFT2)?
 

BRIANGEE

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No long term trims to report? Their behavior will tell you if you have a vacuum leak.
 

1955moose

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Transporter one of our regulars, he must have dropped off for awhile. Maybe he's traveling.

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No long term trims to report? Their behavior will tell you if you have a vacuum leak.


Can't see any of my technology that reports long term trims. What Apps or devices would they show on?

Next, I have found a EVAP Smoke Machine. Where do you guys recommend I plum it in to find this crazy problem?
 

1955moose

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Smoke machine is easiest to pull large hose off vacuum check valve going to brake booster. Brian or one of the others can coach you on fuel trims, theirs many apps you can use on the better scanners, $150.00 on up. If you have a basic code only type, it doesn't have that feature. All the shops have that on their scanners though. The guy at Midas, read mine for me.

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Smoke machine is easiest to pull large hose off vacuum check valve going to brake booster. Brian or one of the others can coach you on fuel trims, theirs many apps you can use on the better scanners, $150.00 on up. If you have a basic code only type, it doesn't have that feature. All the shops have that on their scanners though. The guy at Midas, read mine for me.

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I have both the original OBDII Big Banana and a more recent BT Dongle OBDII with the Torque App, either of those work?
 

Bain64

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I have both the original OBDII Big Banana and a more recent BT Dongle OBDII with the Torque App, either of those work?

BT dongle and torque app will have fuel trim data. For fuel trims you're looking for LTFT and STFT for both bank 1 and bank 2. Graph or log your fuel trims during idle and acceleration.
 

1955moose

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Thanks Bain for that info.

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UPDATE:

Found another vacuum leak and replaced that hose. That did not fix the problem. I should have leak tested again after replacing that hose as now after testing again after replacing the last leaking hose, I can see another leak. Need help with this to know what it is and how much should be replaced.

From the front looking at the motor, on the right side below and to the side of the throttle body are several hoses. There is a "T" formed by two short hoses with a longer hose coming from the back of the engine that uses a plastic white "T" to join the hoses. The hose coming off this "T" on the right side of the short side of the "T" goes into a weird fitting that has a small Green tube going into it that comes from the left off of what looks like a hard fitting all of which is just above the "T". The stuff to the top right short side of the "T" is leaking.

Should I just replace the two short sides of the "T" which looks like standard vacuum hose or mess with that small green tube and the weird fitting?

Lastly does anybody know what this is for and what it does?

It is leaking from the backside about where I have the blue on the topside marked. See pic
.VacHose Pin1.JPG
 

1955moose

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Sounds like your hoses back there are pretty dried out due to age and heat. You might want to consider replacing all involved, or you could be chasing your tail till February. Problem is going to be if Ford or anyone still makes them, you might have to improvise.

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Hamfisted

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That elbow is another common leak spot. You can go to any Advanced Auto or other auto parts store and peruse their "Help" line of vacuum tube elbow packs and find something that'll work as a replacement. The other end of that line runs through the firewall and supplies the HVAC module with vacuum for it's needs. The green line runs back to the EGR valve.
This is all where a smoke machine earns it's cost. Finding all these little leaks.
 
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That elbow is another common leak spot. You can go to any Advanced Auto or other auto parts store and peruse their "Help" line of vacuum tube elbow packs and find something that'll work as a replacement. The other end of that line runs through the firewall and supplies the HVAC module with vacuum for it's needs. The green line runs back to the EGR valve.
This is all where a smoke machine earns it's cost. Finding all these little leaks.


Got that right. First one was simple, it looked nasty, collapsed, and had signs of dry rot so I replaced it. After that, so far the Smoke Machine has found two leaks.

Question, what is the best and easiest way to seal off the air cleaner area? With the seal I have now, I have found two leaks but I have some smoke leaking in the air filter area so I wonder if I would find additional leaks if it was sealed better.
 

1955moose

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Is it an area where a bead of rtv silicone would work?

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