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There's still a lot of good ones out there for decent prices.1 Never had a problem with the abs light
2 Just the rear wing windows stick
3 I think someone is going to buy it tomorrow.
4 Power door locks have a thermistor that prevents little kids from laying on the switch and burning up the motor, they heat up and shut off power before the motor quits. I threw all 5 of my thermistors out and crammed tin foil in there and that was 7 years ago. The locks get lazy first before they quit and might cost $1000 to fix at the dealer. Tin foil was maybe 20 cents.
5 Spark plugs fly out because there is only 3 threads in the heads in the earlier years.
6 Exhaust manifold studs break because they are too small in diameter and there's another $1000 in they break off in the head.
7 4WD operated from the dash always quit because the big expensive seal in the hubs leak air, air relay switch quits, and the dial on the hubs freeze up. Most people go the easy route and stick manual hubs in place of the automatic ones; bad idea. (I fixed mine so it operates from the dash, and completely rebuilt the 4WD plus both front U-joints.).
8 Running boards rust out when all else is unscathed.
9 Shifters get so loose you can't put into drive and everyone takes it to the dealer but tightening one bolt will fix it.
10 Heated seat wires burn up and some even catch on fire (rare).
11 All doors freeze shut in the winter around here
12 Water leaks onto the engine from the back of the hood, goes down into the heads, and causes it to miss.
I must say it's the best vehicle I ever owned and I had it 12 years, funny but I will hate to see it go tomorrow.![]()
I totally agree with that last sentence. I sold the 2000 Ex an hour ago with 200k miles on it for $5,000 cash.There's still a lot of good ones out there for decent prices.
They are great Vehicles. It's funny when you hear these younger people get on the forums and blast them and talk about them being gas hogs and say they wouldn't have one. I wouldn't have most of their vehicles.
The thermistor. I was calling it a resistor but I remember seeing a small part in there. That's the one that I just bridged with the piece of the metal from the fuse. A thicker version of your tenfold. But yes, mine worked for almost 10 years that way.
Those exhaust studs are a pain on all Ford trucks and even on some of the cars but luckily never had an issue with like surgeons or our first gen Expedition. Did have a 97 bus with a V10 in it that had exhaust manifold issues mainly on the passenger side.
When I had a 6.8 fail and Excursion and replaced it with a 2006 engine, I went ahead and replace the gaskets with Fel-Pro and put new grade 8 bolts and lock washers on them. I believe there's 20 bolts that hold the manifolds on and four of them broke. They all came out fine though because it's easy to do when you have it on engine stand.
Haven't had the shifter bolt loosen up on any of the excursions but I have had happened on a couple of town cars.
All of my Excursions have been 2wd so no issues there and our first gen Expedition is a 2000 4wd but it doesn't have the two wheel or the hubs I don't think. It is simply and Auto four-wheel, 4 hi and 4 low.
I have had the issue on other Ford trucks and Navigators on the vacuum hubs.
Running boards were the first to go on one of mine too.
The doors on everything freeze shut when the conditions are right around here.
Never had heated seats in any of mine. Had a friend with a Chrysler LHS that burn a hole right through the seat and he felt it through his pants. I told him, you know those Chryslers and there electrical problems. Lol
Glad we've solved all the Expedition problems in the world. Now we can get back to whatever this thread originally was about. I don't remember, do you?
That's why this is so great. People get irritated about off topic but look at what all we can learn.
Looks like a really nice one but I think you got good money for it.View attachment 34758
I totally agree with that last sentence. I sold the 2000 Ex an hour ago with 200k miles on it for $5,000 cash.
Thanks, you have the only reply but the big manual said to run it down, hold switch, run it up, hold switch.....all done plus I trained the rear hatch also that nobody had an answer for.This thread got so off-topic I didn't even bother to read the rest of it. If you still have your power window issue, this might help:
https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/question.42384/#post-377589
For Expedition, this is driver's side only. For Navigator, it's both front windows.