Please Help!!

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

OP
OP
W

WCoverdale

Active Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2015
Posts
29
Reaction score
3
Location
Rhode Island
The code finally stayed on! Turns out it's a misfire in cylinder 4. Going to get the new spark plug and coil hopefully on Tuesday. In the meantime driving on it a lot probably isn't in my best interest correct? I still need it to get to work as it is my only transportation.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

46L281GT

Full Access Members
Joined
Apr 13, 2015
Posts
217
Reaction score
22
Location
KY
If it were mine I would limit driving as much as possible. You can buy OEM from advance auto and get a coupon code and get them relatively cheap.
 

JollyRoger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2015
Posts
94
Reaction score
43
Location
Michigan
I know this thread is a month old, but wanted to chime in with a similar experience. When I first bought my '07 EB, one of the first things I did was clean the engine using the spray on foam engine cleaner. I've used this stuff all my life and never had problems with hosing down an engine occasionally, and taking care to not spray electrical components directly. Boy did I learn how much these 5.4's DON'T like getting wet. Immediately I started having the same symptoms you listed at the beginning of this thread: Misfire under acceleration, engine light coming on, etc etc. After doing some research and figuring out how prone to failure the COP's are, I pulled them all out, blew a bunch of air into each spark plug well, and thoroughly dried out the COPs. Problem solved...there was moisture in one or more of them. The spark plug wells are just holes that want to hold water. You mentioned that you blew a coolant line, I'm betting some of the coolant made it's way into this area.

The COP's on my '07 were really never right after that incident, and I ended up replacing all 8 of them, which made a dramatic difference. Now I just got this 2010, which I promptly replaced the plugs in, and sure enough....it's feeling like the COP's are weak so I'm ordering another set.

Let us know if you fixed your problem with the new plug and COP you mentioned! Thanks
 
OP
OP
W

WCoverdale

Active Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2015
Posts
29
Reaction score
3
Location
Rhode Island
Thanks for the reply! Funny that you mention the coolant line because the problem started right after I blew it. And you guessed it the hose is right above the 4th cylinder (which has the misfire). so my question to you is are the cops hard to take off? And do you use like regular aerosol cans and just spray near the plug?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

JollyRoger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2015
Posts
94
Reaction score
43
Location
Michigan
Sounds like that was your problem!
As for removing the COP's, see this YouTube video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cD3JS4HucTs

This may not be your exact year (actually I think this was an F150), but they are generally all the same. Just watch 2:50 thru 3:30 and you'll get the idea. It's very easy.

If it were me, I would remove the COP, use an air compressor to blast any existing moisture out of the hole that the spark plug is in, then spray Wire Dryer (aerosol can, available at any auto parts store) down over the plug and also into the COP. I would probably do all 4 cylinders on that side of the motor. Then give it a few minutes to evaporate, blast it with some more air if you'd like, and reinstall them.

Before reinstalling the COP's, put a small amount of dialectic grease (also at any auto part store) in the end of the COP boot.

And if your current COP's have anything close to 80K or 100K miles, you may just want to buy new ones and do this all at the same time.

Hope that helps!
 
OP
OP
W

WCoverdale

Active Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2015
Posts
29
Reaction score
3
Location
Rhode Island
So are you saying to remove the spark plug all together and blast it or just around it and replace/blast the cop? Sorry I'm kind of mechanically impaired haha


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

JollyRoger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2015
Posts
94
Reaction score
43
Location
Michigan
No, don't remove the spark plugs unless you want to change them at the same time. Leaving the spark plug in will ensure that none of the moisture or wire dry spray gets into the cylinder.

Once you get yourself acclimated under the hood and figure out what you are looking at, this whole process shouldn't take more than 30 minutes. Just unhook the electrical connector by pressing on the tab on the side of it, take out the one 7mm bolt holding the COP down, and gently twist and pull. It's like removing a spark plug wire, only it has a small coil on the top of it. Once you get the first one out, you will see what is going on.
 
OP
OP
W

WCoverdale

Active Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2015
Posts
29
Reaction score
3
Location
Rhode Island
Okay I'll try and get that done sometime this week. I really really appreciate you giving me this idea and dealing with my dumb questions. You recommend motor craft coils?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

JollyRoger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2015
Posts
94
Reaction score
43
Location
Michigan
Here's a WAY better YouTube video to watch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpzyHrQtZ8c

I have mixed feelings on the Motorcraft COPs. I did find some on Ebay for $279, which is a great deal considering they are usually almost $400 for a set. However, I did have good luck with the AC Delco (from Mexico) version which were $110 for the set. You get what you pay for, and the failure rate is definitely higher with the cheap ones, but at less than half the price you can afford two sets of those and it's still less than the Motorcraft ones. I'm sure everyone on this forum will disagree with me on this. For $279, it's definitely a safe bet to stay with OEM.

I would suggest to stay away from the Chinese ones, and definately don't buy the yellow ones from Accel. Those are junk.
 
Last edited:
Top