Plugs and Boots Questions

[Phil2D2]

Expy is wife's vehicle, so beyond vacation I really only drive it on the weekends, but it's done a couple things that make me wonder if it needs plugs/boots. Approx 45-50k like some other threads mention.

Anyway, for those of you that have done plugs / boots yourselves:

1) How bad was it to get to them? Specifically the ones nearest firewall? I took a quick glance and it didn't look horrible, but I don't want to underestimate the difficulty. I've done them on several vehicles, but I've bitten off a bit much on a couple rough jobs since and am a bit gunshy. And I've got more kids and less time than I used to.

2) This would be first fancy vehicle without wires for me. When you guys are talking boots, you just replaced the $8/pc boots and not the $50/pc coil pack too, right? It seems reasonable that the boots basically replaced the wires that you'd inevitably break/damage when removing them anyway.

Appreciate any info or advice anyone has.

 

[BMW2FORD]

I just replaced the spark plugs today on my 2018 @ 65k and to be honest, the boots are of very good one piece quality compared to the older Ford products. I don't think you need to replace them unless you have misfire codes or some type of driveability issue. Coils never get replaced unless there is a proven problem with them or if you spill fuel on them. We just got the truck about a month ago and I've been replacing all the fluids and catching up on any needed maintenance. In the past, Ford boots in some cars were multi piece and became hard and almost would seize to the plug / valve cover but not so much on the newer engines. I'd say check out YouTube for some videos searching using the terms Gen 2 3.5 Ecoboost spark plug replacement since its a little different than the Gen 1's. Overall its pretty easy and there's tons a videos especially from the Raptor guys. Things that are important are to warm up the engine but not fully hot. Just about 3 or 4 minutes of idling is perfect before you start (valve cover should feel warm to the touch but not hot then follow these steps - 1) after you remove the upper engine cover, blow compressed air on the valve cover areas to get rid of any sand and debris. There's a lot that gets under the cover and you don't want that falling into the engine when you pull the plugs. 2) removed the 8mm bolts and pull up the coils gently twisting them slowly if stuck. I didn't even have to unplug the coil wiring since with slow movement and a little bend of the boot there was no problem pulling them up and letting the wiring stay intact. 3) with the coils up and out, blow air again but now down the spark plug tube holes to again remove any sand and debris then pull the plugs. I used a 3/8 ratchet and two 6 inch extensions (12 inch total) and got to almost all of them with a standard deep 5/8 spark plug socket. The extra rise let me spin the ratchet without hitting any of the engine hoses or wiring. I think one needed a 6 and 3 inch for a rear cylinder but cant remember that cylinder number. 4) use anti seize on the new plug threads and dielectric grease inside the boot hole where it will go over the plug. This really helps the life of the boot and makes it easy to remove down the line 5) don't overtighten the plug - its real easy with anti seize on the threads to do that. Ford has some really good info online about what torques spec or angle to turn the plugs to so they are correctly tightened and they list the spec by spark plug size. The last thing I'd recommend is to buy the spark plugs from the dealer. I just purchased what Ford informed was the latest released plug and it was an SP594 @$10 each. Sometimes, manufacturers look at the long term results and update the type or heat range of the plugs used so I've always felt safe buying from the dealer. Sometimes the part number changes due to a supplier but it makes me feel much safer. I also did the PCV valve while I was there but to be honest, it was perfect. Its plastic so for sure in a few more years it would be needed but for another $10 while I was there I threw that in as well. Hope this helps!

 

[Phil2D2]

Appreciate the reply, I had searched here but embarrassingly I hadn't thought to hit YouTube yet.

Thinking about it more and you have a point, every time I've done plugs and wires the vehicle has been much older. Inevitably at least one of the boots sticks to the plug and the wire/boot usually gets pulled apart in the process. Usually on the rear bank of a front wheel drive V6 or one that was close enough to the firewall that I just can't get good grip on it. I hope lower age/mileage should work to my favor in this case.

 

[99WhiteC5Coupe]

I just replaced the spark plugs today on my 2018 @ 65k and to be honest, the boots are of very good one piece quality compared to the older Ford products. I don't think you need to replace them unless you have misfire codes or some type of driveability issue. Coils never get replaced unless there is a proven problem with them or if you spill fuel on them. We just got the truck about a month ago and I've been replacing all the fluids and catching up on any needed maintenance. In the past, Ford boots in some cars were multi piece and became hard and almost would seize to the plug / valve cover but not so much on the newer engines. I'd say check out YouTube for some videos searching using the terms Gen 2 3.5 Ecoboost spark plug replacement since its a little different than the Gen 1's. Overall its pretty easy and there's tons a videos especially from the Raptor guys. Things that are important are to warm up the engine but not fully hot. Just about 3 or 4 minutes of idling is perfect before you start (valve cover should feel warm to the touch but not hot then follow these steps - 1) after you remove the upper engine cover, blow compressed air on the valve cover areas to get rid of any sand and debris. There's a lot that gets under the cover and you don't want that falling into the engine when you pull the plugs. 2) removed the 8mm bolts and pull up the coils gently twisting them slowly if stuck. I didn't even have to unplug the coil wiring since with slow movement and a little bend of the boot there was no problem pulling them up and letting the wiring stay intact. 3) with the coils up and out, blow air again but now down the spark plug tube holes to again remove any sand and debris then pull the plugs. I used a 3/8 ratchet and two 6 inch extensions (12 inch total) and got to almost all of them with a standard deep 5/8 spark plug socket. The extra rise let me spin the ratchet without hitting any of the engine hoses or wiring. I think one needed a 6 and 3 inch for a rear cylinder but cant remember that cylinder number. 4) use anti seize on the new plug threads and dielectric grease inside the boot hole where it will go over the plug. This really helps the life of the boot and makes it easy to remove down the line 5) don't overtighten the plug - its real easy with anti seize on the threads to do that. Ford has some really good info online about what torques spec or angle to turn the plugs to so they are correctly tightened and they list the spec by spark plug size. The last thing I'd recommend is to buy the spark plugs from the dealer. I just purchased what Ford informed was the latest released plug and it was an SP594 @$10 each. Sometimes, manufacturers look at the long term results and update the type or heat range of the plugs used so I've always felt safe buying from the dealer. Sometimes the part number changes due to a supplier but it makes me feel much safer. I also did the PCV valve while I was there but to be honest, it was perfect. Its plastic so for sure in a few more years it would be needed but for another $10 while I was there I threw that in as well. Hope this helps!

Ford does not recommend anti seize compound on the spark plug threads.

Modern spark plugs are manufactured with a coating on the threads, which enable easy removal from the engine head.

Here is an interesting article regarding the use of anti seize compound on spark plug threads: http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/NGK_TB-0630111antisieze.pdf

 

[BMW2FORD]

Its been an age old debate that goes back decades and mainly written this way due to over tightening. Almost an installer preference. There's even some good write ups on how to modify the torque value if you do use anti seize. One thing I can say is anyone you talk to that does remove plugs from a 3.5 Ecoboost always notes the squeak they make when turning them out by hand.

 

[JasonH]

I had a really hard time with this maintenance task. YMMV.

Ecoboost spark plug change

What a PITA! 34k miles on my 17 EL. I'm running a 5* performance/tow tune (87 octane), so decided to change out my plugs for a good baseline since I just bought the truck certified pre owned last month. I watched the YouTube videos to make sure there weren't any gotchas, seemed pretty...

www.expeditionforum.com

 

[BMW2FORD]

Wow, just read your old post and sorry to hear that but do remember the older engines being a bit tougher (seemed like a much harder rubber or one that hardened faster over time). I found that even if its an older spark plug wire car and not even coil on plug that the twist back and forth a few times before even trying to pull is really important. I've seen some spark plug wires that I could hang from that wouldn't come off the plug at all and sometimes you just have to push it back on and twist before and while pulling and they sometimes come off much easier that way. I do the same with the coil on plug cars and twist while pulling.

 

[Soliyou]

I won't use anti-seize on any low-torque bolts again (including plugs). We were working on my son's car yesterday and stripped a bolt that was supposed to be torqued to 20 ft-lb . Started it by hand and applied very little torque before the threads were busted. Now I need to try to remove it, fix the threads and see if it will work.

 

[Zig10]

I won't use anti-seize on any low-torque bolts again (including plugs). We were working on my son's car yesterday and stripped a bolt that was supposed to be torqued to 20 ft-lb . Started it by hand and applied very little torque before the threads were busted. Now I need to try to remove it, fix the threads and see if it will work.

Speaking as someone that has had to put in a helicoil on a previous engine in due to overtightening a plug with some anti-seize on it, I'm of the "keep it dry" camp these days.

 

[Gumby]

I had my done at the dealer at about 133,000 kms (82k miles). 2018 here with now 139,000 kms (87k miles). I felt the cost was worth the time saver...