Possibly bad head gasket....

[Clayc84]

So took my truck in to have the filler neck replaced and had them check an issue i was having with oil dripping on the exhaust. They called and said it may be the rear seal and possibly a head gasket. Truck has 101k on the 5.4L body and interior like new drives great. Anyone else have this issue. What does a head gasket replacement job usually run? Or is it better to try and find another motor? Only had the truck 2 weeks paid 3k so I'm stuck on what to do. Runs and drives great just smokes after I drive it and park it. Any help would be appreciated

 

[stamp11127]

First thing to do is clean off the engine top and bottom - don't spray the electrical connectors with a pressure washer though. We use Gunk Engine cleaner at work and a garden hose.
Run the engine up to temp and look for the leak. Rear main seal will leak down between the block and bell housing. Valve cover gaskets are a known leak source on the these.

Did they charge you for a engine cleaning?

 

[Clayc84]

They didn't do an engine clean. I had the filler neck replaced and had them check the leak. I can clean myself but a little Leary now with the freezing temps here. From what I've been reading the last few minutes I'm looking at at least a 1300 repair if its a head gasket. I hope not tho. How long would I be able to keep driving it like this??

 

[FordandPolaris]

They didn't do an engine clean. I had the filler neck replaced and had them check the leak. I can clean myself but a little Leary now with the freezing temps here. From what I've been reading the last few minutes I'm looking at at least a 1300 repair if its a head gasket. I hope not tho. How long would I be able to keep driving it like this??

Like Stamp said it could just as likely be a valve cover gasket which would be cheaper (though still spendy). Head gasket leaks usually mix coolant and oil together. Maybe drain the oil and check for white frothy looking oil.

My valve cover has been leaking oil for the last two years at least. It is not enough to drip on the driveway so I just add oil about once a month. If it is leaking enough to drip down onto the driveway, I would replace it sooner than later.

 

[Clayc84]

It's looking like a head gasket. I checked the dip stick and oil is clean. Took off oil cap and milky colored. So I basically got screwed buying this truck from the way it's going. Everything checked out when I bought it but just my luck!

 

[toms89]

I believe there is a known issue with head gaskets leaking oil outside the engine on the mod motors. Not really a blown head gasket but merely a leak.

This really is not a major concern but is a nuisance.

Rear main seal and valve cover gaskets can be just as likely. Really need to clean motor off as said to determine the source.

I had valve covers leak that was difficult to trace but it leaked while driving and would drip on the exhaust after I shut down. Next morning I would leave and it would smoke like crazy as the exhaust heated up and burned it off what had dripped on it while it sat.

 

[toms89]

It's looking like a head gasket. I checked the dip stick and oil is clean. Took off oil cap and milky colored. So I basically got screwed buying this truck from the way it's going. Everything checked out when I bought it but just my luck!

Frequent short trips can cause the milky color on the oil fill cap.

Clean it off and drive several long trips, maybe 1/2 hour of more and see if it returns. Short trips do not allow the engine to get up to temp long enough to evaporate any moisture built up in the block.

 

[Clayc84]

Thanks for the insight. Makes me feel somewhat better but I'm still stumped as to why my dipstick shows clean oil and when i take the cap off and stick my finger in there it comes out with what looks like antifreeze n oil mixed.

 

[toms89]

Thanks for the insight. Makes me feel somewhat better but I'm still stumped as to why my dipstick shows clean oil and when i take the cap off and stick my finger in there it comes out with what looks like antifreeze n oil mixed.

Water and oil will make milkshake looking froth on the oil cap. Condensation that does not have a chance to evaporate. Frequent short trips can do that.

Watch your coolant and oil level over time. Oil level rising and coolant level dropping can be a bad sign. Be aware the coolant level does fluctuate depending on engine temp. You should be able to open the drain plug and the first thing to come out would be the coolant if coolant is getting into the oil. Has to set awhile after running first for oil and coolant to separate. Coolant will settle to the bottom, oil will rise to the top.

 

[Clayc84]

Alright thanks a lot! I did notice some water coming out of the tailpipe when I first start it so that makes sense as to why there would be xondensation under the oil cap and giving me that color I'm new to Ford so it's all new to me lol but I greatly appreciate the replies!

 

[Clayc84]

Would a stop leak additive help in this situation?? Never tried before bc
I've never had this problem!

 

[onlyexilove]

Like Toms89 said, these do have a very common head gasket oil leak issue. I had the same exact thing happen to my 98 with a 4.6 setup. In the back right corner I had a leak that got worse over time. I ended doing the PI head swap while replacing the head gaskets. Total out the door for the build was around $2800 but it boosted the setup another 75 hp. Most shops like you posted will run you around 1200 - 1500 for the head gasket swap. Easiest thing would be to make sure the leak is def coming from the back corner and if so, replace the valve cover gaskets during the swap. Also make sure that the intake gaskets get replaced as well being that when they leak they tend to drain oil into the spark plug tubes. If it makes any difference I scooped up mine for $3300 and after the heater core and top end build and a few other minor things I am into the truck for around $7500.

 

[rtbrjason]

I recently dealt with this. I would have lived with it, but it was getting worse and smoking really bad when stopped/idling.

A buddy with a shop did this for me for $500 labor. I spent a decent amount more on parts. Aside from replacing all gaskets from the heads up, I ended up doing a full timing kit (chains, guides etc) as well as O2 sensors, new manifolds (old were rotted out). I also did a water pump and tstat, and cleaned everything and back flushed the heater core etc while it was all apart. There were a few other small parts involved.

For now the problem is resolved, but I understand that this can crop back up over time even after gasket replacement. If not for the good price on labor I may have never done it though as it didn't really effect drivability.

 

[gkelly]

Going through the same problem now with my gaskets got a price of 1900 to replace all top end gaskets, new head bolts, oil& filter, antifreeze, water pump, plugs and labor