Power Window Dead 1/2 Way Down

[ACQB]

Anyone ever chase a power window ghost?
2006 Expedition Eddie Bauer
Rear passenger window went half way down and stopped. Wouldn't go up or down via the drivers door master or the rear passenger door controller. Pulled out all the "old" its raining and we are miles from home tricks
I.E. Opened closed the doors, gave the arm wrests the "Fonzie" touch (that means hit them for the young ones), pressed HARD on the passenger door controller as well as the drivers. Did all the above with the doors opened as well as closed. Nothing brought the window back to life. Of course it was raining, wet drive home, plastic garbage bagged & taped it for the night to look at this morning.
Go out this morning, start the Expedition to move it to garage to work on it,but first on a whim repeated the above mentioned. Rear pass switch still no joy. Press the drivers control for that window and up it goes. (why did this work now, but not last night?
I give up. Just glad its up)

My question(s) after all this:
Does the power to the other doors feed thru the master controller in the drivers door as Ive read on some web pages or not as some others suggest?
Where would you start? Do I break out the VOM, alligator test leads, and the powered test probe and check everything as I should? or.... Jump right to:
>Replace the drivers master cluster?
>Replace the switch in the passenger door?
>Pull the wire boot in the drivers door and look for a bad wire?
>Pull the rear passenger wire boot and look for a bad wire?
>Say screw it and just keep the "kid lock" on the power windows? (Not ideal, much prefer things work as they should)
>Punt on 1st down??

 

[BlackCoffee]

OK, it's been a couple day so I will jump in.

Since you know there is a kid's lock, of course the power to the other windows goes through the driver's master. You can check this by turning it on/off and seeing if the other windows react the same as the the rear PAX window. If with the kids lock off it is only the PAX rear that doesn't work, it is probably that window. Circuit is simple, power, motor, and window regulator. I would remove the panel and check power to the window motor connector. The simple test is just to remove the window motor and see if it works unattached. If it runs, it may be a bad motor (still) or a binding regulator. If it doesn't run, get a voltmeter and start chasing power. If it runs, reinstall, loosen the regulator mounting bolts and see if it is the window binding in the regulator. If the window got slower and slower being raised, I would suspect it is the regulator. They are available on for not very much. You can get regulator and motor assemblies. Check power from the driver's master and from the right PAX switch. Activating the switch should provide 12V to ground. If you have the power to the motor connector, it can only be the motor or regulator combination.

 

[Dix_]

In my experience any "ghosts" or "Gremlins" in the power lock/window systems usually turns out the be the switches. They have a nasty habit of becoming intermittent & then eventually non-functional. especially if that particular switch doesn't get used but once in a blue moon.

The good news is that the switches themselves come apart & clean-up rather easily. Taking one apart & cleaning up the contacts to restore it to working condition is about a 5 minute job once you get the switch out. Which isn't a bad process either.

The door panels on these things are about some of the easiest to remove/replace as it gets.

 

[Hamfisted]

It's usually the master controller on the driver's door that craps out. The power to the rear doors originates from the master controller. The master switch is susceptible to moisture damage because it gets exposed the most to rain when you open the door in the rain or snow, and over the years it takes it's toll. The Motorcraft part number is SW7193 and they're about $55 at Rock Auto, $60 on Amazon (includes shipping...).


https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-SW7193-Power-Window-Switch/dp/B00M492HB0


https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...rical-switch+&+relay,power+window+switch,4624

 

[alcgraham]

So I am wondering if this would be my problem as my driver window stopped working last week. It rolled down about 1/4 then stopped and would roll back up but now won't do anything. I have a 2004 Expedition EB 4WD with 206K miles.

 

[BlackCoffee]

If you have wires and a multimeter I would verify there is power to the motor. You can take off the door panel and access the connector to the window motor. Activate the switch and check for 12V between the two terminals or between the positive terminal and ground. If you have power, then it could be one of two problems. The motor or the regulator although it is most likely the motor. Pull the motor and use jumpers to connect it directly to a 12V source. Polarity isn't to big a problem, it just reverses the direction of the motor. If it works under no load, inspect the regulator. Checklist. 1. Power to the connector 2. Motor works with 12V 3. Regulator inspection. Note: The motor may work removed, but not be strong enough. At any rate, if you suspect the motor or regulator, it is best to replace both. Rockauto sells them as an assembly.