Ready Lift 3-2 kit installed with CCD suspension

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

JayTee

Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2019
Posts
18
Reaction score
15
Location
Lynn Ranch
Yup.
Unfortunately the stock wheels have such a positive offset that there is virtually nil clearance between the UCA and the stock tire.

When you go up a size, it will be fine rolling straight, but at full lock the tire hits the front of the UCA.

Got around it by using a 1” adapter and now I have zero rubbing anywhere.

And had to put a 1.25” adapter on rears because the studs are 1/4 longer, which seems odd that they are different than front, but whatever.

But it worked out well because now both front and rear are equally flush with body because the stock rear is narrower than the front.
 

Tyler Makeig

New Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2019
Posts
3
Reaction score
0
Location
92382
Picked up the wife's new Stealth Expedition Limited today and installed a 3-2 lift on it pretty much immediately. Yes, I know that this isn't supposed to work. Yes I know ReadyLift says it won't work, but it works. Here's what we did:

Before starting we measured each wheel well and recorded it. I don't have the numbers in front of me, but in the end the lift was NOT 3 in the front or 2 in the back.

Next, we used the iPhone measure app to take an angle measurement on each CCD sensor. We then recorded what we had in order to replicate the factory angles with new adjustable arms from this source:


CCD Brackets: 507-381-4260

Once we had our measurements, we put the truck on lift, pulled the wheels off and got to work.

On the front, we found that the electronic solenoid on the shock was clocked differently once the spacers were attached. I believe we could have fixed this by swapping the left and right shocks, but by the time this occurred to us we had the front buttoned up and were not inclined to undo everything and start from scratch. We did have to fashion a tool from right angle bar stock to attach to the lower ball joint after it was removed from the lower control arm. With a block of wood to take up the gap, we used this as a secure way to leverage the lower control arm down so that the strut assembly could be installed. In the end, the CCD wiring had to be slightly re-routed due to the solenoids being 180 degrees out of their original location, but there appear to be no clearance issues. Still, if you plan on doing this, just plan on switching the left and right shocks out for each other once the spacers are installed.

On the rear, we found that the two spacers each needed one of the lower mounting holes modified because the welds were too long and prevented the nuts from tightening flush to the flange. Easy fix, but be prepared for it. We chose to disconnect the CCD arms, then remove the inside lower control arm bolt as well as the lower shock bolt. This allowed the assembly to drop down enough for the shock / spring assembly to be removed easily. The top 3 nuts holding the shock to the frame mount were NOT as easy as the front ones were. In particular the inside two (especially passenger side due to the fuel lines) were a huge pain in the ass. The installation was straight forward, however, but since the CCD is not supposed to be lifted, no mention was made of the CCD solenoid. While re-installing the first one, we discovered the problem with the solenoid clocked 180 degrees out, so we swapped sides and sure enough everything went back together easily. We just tightened the bolts, settled the suspension, and torqued to spec.

Once the truck was back on the ground we installed the adjustable arms and adjusted them until each sensor was at the same angle as stock. Both front arms required approximately 3/4" of thread to be removed in order to achieve the desired angle, whereas the rear arms required nothing more than adjustment. I found that each complete revolution equaled roughly 1 degree, maybe that will help someone from having to take it on and off as many times as I did.

A quick test drive to check the install and no problems or faults were noted. No warnings from the message center, and the ride was exactly as it had been before. Fantastic.

Tomorrow the wheels and tires will be switched, and I'll see if the offset I got will allow me to push the envelope with 34" tires. If not, we have 33s standing by.....

In the end, this kit DID NOT give me the lift I was hoping for. Up front I netted just over 2" and out back I gained about 1.75" This left me still with a noticeable rake to the front, but I'm hopeful that it will settle some with use and at least be level.

FYI the front spacers (22-6615) that they claim to be the "3" in the 3-2 lift are labeled 2.25" level lift for F150. Yes I confirmed with Ready Lift that this was in fact the correct part for this kit.

All in all this was not difficult so if you are holding off because you have the CCD suspension, DON'T.

Pics tomorrow with the tires. It's late and I need another beer.


Ed


Thank you for such a detailed write up. I am diving into this project tomorrow and feel pretty confident.
The one thing that is throwing me off is the swapping of the struts from side to side, can you explain or elaborate on exactly why this is necessary? Maybe it will make complete sense once I get in there but I would prefer to have some insight before I'm balls deep in it, LOL!
 

Lou Hamilton

Full Access Members
Joined
Nov 28, 2019
Posts
939
Reaction score
633
Location
Maryland
Great info and thanks for sharing.

Just put 305 45 22’s on my stealth and just ordered the Traxda 2.75/2.25 kit.

They make a kit to handle the ERC, so will let you know how it goes and what kind of height I get out of it.

In the mean-time, Im loving how meaty it looks at stock height!

View attachment 32184

Do you have any rubbing with those tires? I'm thinking of getting 305/45R22s and put them on the stock rims.
 

Miekk

Full Access Members
Joined
Jan 9, 2012
Posts
156
Reaction score
32
Location
Madison Lake, MN
...swapping of the struts from side to side, can you explain or elaborate on exactly why this is necessary?

The CCD struts have an electrical connection on them orientated to the back side of the strut I believe.
The strut has 3 studs on the top bolting it to the body. These are NOT evenly divided by 3 (not 360 degrees / 3 = 120 degrees apart) and have to be mounted in a certain orientation. (assuming fords way of preventing it from being assembled wrong).
The spacers come with the same bolt pattern as the strut to bolt to the top, and in order to give you 3 more new studs on top, they turned the pattern around 180 degrees as to not interfere with the factory studs.
Non-CCD struts are fine turned around, but if you want to have the connector the same place it was, you flip vehicle sides and it essentially puts them back in the orientation they were before the lift spacers.
I've had two guys tell me they left them on the same sides, but the wires are a little short and/or fairly exposed.
 
Top