Real oil change intervals

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1955moose

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Thanks Adieu, went online found same 6 pack $10.00 less, wonder if they charge tax? I'll have to order up a few cases, thanks again, Moose

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Adieu

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I had a cold start "tick"using the Motorcraft 5w20 full synthetic, in my 4.6l dohc Lincoln. It idles high, when first started. Mobil 1, nothing, no tick.

Ditto (I think)

Tried going back to 5w20 synthetic after running Rotella T6 5w40.... motor seems louder

PS '09 5.4L 3V, 177k
 

ExpeditionAndy

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Ditto (I think)

Tried going back to 5w20 synthetic after running Rotella T6 5w40.... motor seems louder

PS '09 5.4L 3V, 177k
In the Triton you don't want to run anything heavier that 5w20 because of the small passages in the upper end if the engines. It may be a little noisier but at least the oil can reach all of the passages. The exception is if you have a high mileage engine then you can use the 5w30. Try 5w30 synthetic.
 

rjdelp7

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In the Triton you don't want to run anything heavier that 5w20 because of the small passages in the upper end if the engines. It may be a little noisier but at least the oil can reach all of the passages. The exception is if you have a high mileage engine then you can use the 5w30. Try 5w30 synthetic.
Ford uses/recommends 5W30 in engines sold outside US. 5W20 is used to meet fuel c.a.f.e standard. Ford issued TSB , that both 5w20 and 5w30 are both acceptable.
 
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JExpedition07

JExpedition07

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Ford uses/recommends 5W30 in engines sold outside US. 5W20 is used to meet fuel c.a.f.e standard. Ford issued TSB , that both 5w20 and 5w30 are both acceptable.

Theyve run noise tests and find 5W-30 to be quieter. This is correct ford says both are ok. I still use 5W-20 but you can use either or.
 

1955moose

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After all the issues I read day after day about 2nd and 3rd gen 3 valve motors, correct weight, and above all cleanliness of the oil is critical. On top of that oil controlled cam chain components, and you see why weight, regular, or even before regular changes is not something you want to gamble with. It's a real shame that Ford didn't do more research into the 3valve, and their horrible maladies, but done is done. Guys and girls, with the money you throw at parts for maintenance and when you run into a driveability issue, doesn't it just make sense to throw $40.00 to $50.00 every 5k on oil/filter changes. If you do or did in the past, these repair issues would cut by at least 30-50 percent. Look what happens when the you ignore your body, poor diet, no or little exercise, you feel like crap, why do that to your Suv/pickup just to save a few bucks. Better to take that repair money and spend it on wife and kiddy's. Teach your son/daughter maintenance, wish my dad lived to teach me. My three older brothers were boneheads when it came to anything mechanical!

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sjwelds

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After all the issues I read day after day about 2nd and 3rd gen 3 valve motors, correct weight, and above all cleanliness of the oil is critical. On top of that oil controlled cam chain components, and you see why weight, regular, or even before regular changes is not something you want to gamble with. It's a real shame that Ford didn't do more research into the 3valve, and their horrible maladies, but done is done. Guys and girls, with the money you throw at parts for maintenance and when you run into a driveability issue, doesn't it just make sense to throw $40.00 to $50.00 every 5k on oil/filter changes. If you do or did in the past, these repair issues would cut by at least 30-50 percent. Look what happens when the you ignore your body, poor diet, no or little exercise, you feel like crap, why do that to your Suv/pickup just to save a few bucks. Better to take that repair money and spend it on wife and kiddy's. Teach your son/daughter maintenance, wish my dad lived to teach me. My three older brothers were boneheads when it came to anything mechanical!

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Moose, what's your opinion on the 5w20 vs 5w30 topic? Just curious, as I value your opinion.
 

1955moose

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The Ford factory was the one that put out the tsb bulletin to switch viscosity. Most of the issues were in the colder climates, if memory serves. It was about a year back we had this discussion. I'm not an oil specialist by any means, maybe one of our engine specialists on this issue wants to chime in with some real world facts, and info.

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JExpedition07

JExpedition07

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After all the issues I read day after day about 2nd and 3rd gen 3 valve motors, correct weight, and above all cleanliness of the oil is critical. On top of that oil controlled cam chain components, and you see why weight, regular, or even before regular changes is not something you want to gamble with. It's a real shame that Ford didn't do more research into the 3valve, and their horrible maladies, but done is done. Guys and girls, with the money you throw at parts for maintenance and when you run into a driveability issue, doesn't it just make sense to throw $40.00 to $50.00 every 5k on oil/filter changes. If you do or did in the past, these repair issues would cut by at least 30-50 percent. Look what happens when the you ignore your body, poor diet, no or little exercise, you feel like crap, why do that to your Suv/pickup just to save a few bucks. Better to take that repair money and spend it on wife and kiddy's. Teach your son/daughter maintenance, wish my dad lived to teach me. My three older brothers were boneheads when it came to anything mechanical!

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The 3 valve 5.4L is a great motor, but not for people who don’t know engines or maintenance. It takes an owner that pays attention, bottom line. You have to keep your oil clean, listen to it, and be able to turn a wrench. I’ve been around these motors forever and they will run forever if they have an owner who takes care. Same applies to the ecoboost powertrain, which has timing chain stretch and guide and tensioner breaking problems as well...also plenty of the EB as they age where the heads have to come off because of sticking valves. bottom line is Fords newer overhead cam engines take more attention than the old push rod motors. Changing your oil and fluids is key. As they get more complex, there is more that can go wrong.
 
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ExplorerTom

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Ford uses/recommends 5W30 in engines sold outside US. 5W20 is used to meet fuel c.a.f.e standard. Ford issued TSB , that both 5w20 and 5w30 are both acceptable.

My oil cap and owner's manual says 5w-30.
 

1955moose

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Amen brother to that. It's like Italian and British cars, if your not willing to put up with quirky nature best stay away. But if you haven't heard a Ferrari v12 screaming past you at 7,000 rpm, you haven't lived. Same for a 60's jaguar xke. Worth the trouble!

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Richard_S

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Since day one FoMo 5W20 full synthetic and oil filter and change between 5k-7.5k, 214k miles and all original internal engine components.
 

deweysmith

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I accidentally went almost 10,000 miles on this last oil change. I took a sample to send off to Blackstone Labs. I’ll post the results when I get them, we'll see how it fares. :)
 

Richard_S

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I accidentally went almost 10,000 miles on this last oil change. I took a sample to send off to Blackstone Labs. I’ll post the results when I get them, we'll see how it fares. :)

I have a Blackstone sample kit in my toolbox waiting for the next oil change, will be interesting to see your results, and mine in a couple months.
 

lxrick

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I am still with the vehicle reminder of oil change. I also use 5w30 instead of 5w20. It simply depends on the climate you are living.
And if there is still warranty you have to use "stock" 5W20.

In reality the oil quality is much more important. 5W20 is not 5W20. The oil has to be and remain stable at all temperatures till the next change.
Not just for 1000 miles and room temperature ;)

So I am using just oils from Liqui Moly or Meguin (Which is the same) and I am glad to say, that my oil is still yellow and almost fresh after 8-10k miles.
Yes it is not cheap, but cheaper than any repair.
 
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JExpedition07

JExpedition07

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I’m always MC every 3,500 miles. Oil is always an interesting topic, the MC stuff always seems to hold up well for me.
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07xln

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I'm coming due for a change. Oil monitor is at 18% and I'm approaching 5000 miles since the last change. Normally I go with whatever synthetic is on sale but I might spring for some premium oil this go around
 
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JExpedition07

JExpedition07

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I'm coming due for a change. Oil monitor is at 18% and I'm approaching 5000 miles since the last change. Normally I go with whatever synthetic is on sale but I might spring for some premium oil this go around

What brand(s) do you consider a premium oil?
 
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