recent fix

[cnuttgirl]

i put my expy in the shop to get the rear window seal replaced, have the rear wiper motor checked, and the multi-function switch (cause the cruise was intermittent).

came out needing a new right side exhaust manifold, right head gasket, and transmission dip stick tube.

i had the tranny fluid at extra cost.

my extended warranty was awesome. they paid everything except $60 and the tranny flush.

the exhaust leak was a warped manifold. when they went in to fix it, a bolt was broken off in the block. they were able to drill that one out, but trying to get all the bolts off the block they busted one off deep in there that they had to have machined out (at extra cost no doubt).

while tearing it down to fix the exhaust leak, that's when they found the oil leak. It was actually really far in the back...almost like the leak was from the rear-most cylinder.

that's what lead them to the transmission dip stick tube. There just happened to be a rusted out hole about the size of a dime.

I had started a thread about "T/C lock-up solenoid" turns out (so far) that the fluid change has been the fix. As soon as you notice the "shudder" like going over rumble strips (when you know that you are not), take it to get the fluid changed. The longer you wait to change the fluid, the worse it's gonna be for you.

You can and probably will tear up either or both of the following: torque convertor...transmission.

It was explained to me that the lock up solenoid can be bad with or without good fluid. If it is bad, it can lead to a torn up torque convertor, which can lead to torn up transmission.

 

[rwinch]

Whoa!!! That's a lot of stuff.

What year is your Exby again??

 

[cnuttgirl]

1999 with 69K

 

[Guest]

I bought an extended warranty for my Mustang but passed with the Expedition.

The Mustang has over 60k miles with only one day at the shop and that was under the 36k mile warranty. The trannys in the Mustangs are pure crud and I'll get my money's worth with the warranty.

I'll probably get an extended warranty with the Expedition depending on how the first 20k go.

 

[rwinch]

I found a link to a great site that the service technicians respond to. I hope it helps someone:

http://flatratetech.com/

 

[Guest]

Did they just drain the transmission and replace the fluid that drained out or did they do a complete fluid change (i.e suck "all" the transmission fluid out and replace with new). The problem with just draining the transmission, is you only about 50-60% of the old fluid drains out. To get it all of it out, you have to hook up a machine that actually sucks the fluid out and replaces it with clean ATF. Most express oil change places have this machine. The reason I ask is that I think my 1999 with 67k may have the shudder. Do notice it mostly when going up hills and the transmission hasn't downshifted?

 

[cnuttgirl]

wow, sorry npearman i haven't looked around this site in a while. i had the tranny flushed.

i noticed it a lot when i was traveling at highway speed (70-75 mph) and then wanted to pass someone (really put my foot into it). but i also noticed it at city speeds about 40 mph. it was to a point where i could repeat the shudder around 1500 rpm. i NEVER noticed it when i was slowing down. only when i was leaving from a stop or trying to pass someone.

 

[BONESTOCK]

Wow! Seems I have that same problem.

Is there a way I could do the transmission fluid change myself? I hate bring in my car to get serviced. I like doing it myself. What tools will I need? I keep hearing about a machine that sucks the fluid out???

 

[cnuttgirl]

bonestock-

if you have a 4R100 tranny, i can tell you exactly how to do it (i just did it 2500 miles ago, & my truck is running great...no more shudder yet). here is a website where i got the "how to". You will probably have to register to view these links, but it's free. There was one incorrect bolt size mentioned.

"how to drain the oil pan and change the tranny filter"
http://fordtruckworld.tenmagazines.com/drainoil.asp
tranny pan bolts were 10mm (i had the 20-bolt patterned pan)
page 2 of this link tells you how you can identify which tranny you have.

"how to drain your torque convertor"
http://fordtruckworld.tenmagazines.com/torque.asp
crank nut size was 18mm not 21mm as mentioned in the article
T/C drain plug bolt size was 11mm
do NOT use the red locktite, but definitely reuse the drain plug.

first you need to be 100% positive which tranny you have. here's another site where you can give the guys your VIN and they will tell you which one you have:
http://flatratetech.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php/forum/31.html
(if this link doesn't work, go to flatratetech.com, then click on "message forums" then scroll down to "oasis forum"). again, you might have to register to post a message, but it's free.

i also added a remote tranny fluid filter. since i needed it quickly, i can't weld, and it was cheap, i ordered this kit PRM-10678 (it was $44.83 after taxes):
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/sum-g4980.pdf

i work at a power plant, so i borrowed the heat gun so i could mark the inlet and outlet lines of the tranny going to the tranny cooler.

i know it was kinda ****, but i was afraid to misplace anything or put it back where it didn't belong, so i drew the tranny pan on a paper towel and put "x's" where the bolts should go and then placed each corresponding bolt on the "x" of my drawing.

including: remote filter installation, T/C drain, 30 minute break, tranny drain, tranny filter change, tranny pan and magnet cleaning, pan drying time, buttoning up, filling with fluid, checking fluid 4 times, and a 30 minute test drive (with a recheck), the job took 4.5 hours and 14qts of new fluid (that was 1/4 qt high the morning after using "cold" on the dip stick).

lastly, before any of this, i added 6oz (1/2 bottle) of auto-rx. they have a website:
http://www.auto-rx.com/
and you can go here to read about different experiments people have done to prove how well this product works:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=forum;f=5

if this link doesn't work go to bobistheoilguy.com and then click on "additives, fuel, oil, cleaners". again, you might have to register but it's free.

i have used this in my engine twice, and this is my first go 'round with it in the tranny. i swear by its use in engines. i noticed (the first time) a 2mpg increase for 8 months. on the "bob is the oil guy" website i was mentioning needing the "ford friction modifier" for my "shudder" problem. The guy who own's the auto-rx company responded and told me to use the product in the tranny. if the shudder returned he would refund my money.

it's only been 2500 miles, but no shudder yet.

i bought my truck with 43K on it, it began shuddering around 75K. i had the fluid flush done at the dealer and they added the "friction modifier". that really did the trick (and cost $175). 50K miles later the "shuddder" started coming back. so, i tried the auto-rx and did my own tranny & T/C drain & fill.

i switched to Royal Purple Max ATF (i bought it in bulk-5gallon pail- and got a good price). so far so good.

let me know if you need more information.

 

[cnuttgirl]

quick update: noticed a small leak a few days ago of about 1 oz of tranny fluid...looks like synthetic is finding it's way past some seals. double checked all the tranny pan bolts and the T/C drain plug...ALL were dry. area between bell housing and engine oil pan seemed to be where the leak was coming from.

still running strong and no shudder at 3500 miles.