Refrigerant with "Sealer"?

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StephanSloan

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99WhiteC5Coupe

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I believe the seals in my condenser are shot (pictures posted at https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/my-wife-is-hot.40258/)
Is there good reason not to try some refrigerant with "sealer" at least to just get through the next week until I can replaces the compressor? Will a shop with a refrigerant recovery machine not want to evacuate the system if I have put sealer in?
Thank you,
Stephan


Condenser or compressor?

I would not add refrigerant with sealer if the system will be repaired next week.
 

stamp11127

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DO NOT USE SEALER!

That crap will plug the recovery machine at the very least. One of our students had it in his system and kept quiet about it. Not only did it plug all the filters it took out the solenoid block inside the machine. Even with multiple cleanings with ac flush the sealer stuck. Ended up junking the machine due to the cost of replacing the block.
 

Iamsam1117

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Side note from an HVAC Engineer, do not use sealer... Yea it may work for awhile but it's better to find and fix the least or put a few squirts in when it's "feeling warm" if you opt for sealer expect to have to fix much more than a leak when the time comes
 
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StephanSloan

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Thank you gentlemen- It made sense that the sealer would come out with the refrigerant and it would be nasty.
It seemed remarkable to me how many of the refrigerants for sale at WalMart included sealer. I think there was only 1 option that did not contain sealer.

I am daunted at the prospect of changing the compressor myself and learning that it is recommended to change the condenser at the same time. Any encouragement or warning is appreciated.
Stephan
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stamp11127

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You only need to change the condenser if the tibds are damaged or the compressor has puked metal shavings. You always have to change the accumulator or drier when you change compressors.

Watch a few YouTube videos to see what is involved.
 
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StephanSloan

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Thanks for the help here friends-
Success (so far, 2 days and blowing cold) appears to be ours.
Just in case there is anyone as dumb as I... If your replacement compressor does not come with studs and just has bolts holding the dust caps in - do not use the bolts to install the AC lines to the compressor - they are too short and they will pull the 3 or 4 threads they bite.
If you do:
This is a good time to pull the compressor back out, insert a helicoil to repair the threads and then transfer the studs from the old compressor to the new one.
Thanks and regards,
Stephan
 

TobyU

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The Red Angel will work for many leaks and will not clog or harm the system. I have used in many times. It unfortunately doesn't work as well as they say it does. I t never fixed high side or high side pressure leaks like condenser seepage.
They will give your money back though. So no loss.
 

TobyU

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You only need to change the condenser if the tibds are damaged or the compressor has puked metal shavings. You always have to change the accumulator or drier when you change compressors.

Watch a few YouTube videos to see what is involved.

Hey Stamp, you ever worked on many mini bus systems like Turtle Top or other shuttle style cutaway van chassis bus ac add ons? Trans Air I think is the most common.

I used to have an E Super Duty with one and getting ready to replace compressor on another add on RV/Bus style system.
Has Large rectangular condenser underneath vehicle mounted going down side and evap similar size evap inside with expansion valve and sensing coil I'm pretty sure (will look tomorrow). I remember calling Turtle Top back then and talking to a very helpful tech there about proper charging pressures.
I recall I was seeing higher low side than I expected. He told me they usually charge with 4-6lbs...BIG variance to me.
I has good to even low high side but low side was 50+. I think he told me or I read somewhere that even up to 60 is normal for these.
I got to the point to where I would put an accurate digital thermometer in the vents and charge to coldest temp without it increasing as long as high side stayed respectable.

Any experience or advice appreciated.

This compressor was cooling some but loud and clicking/tapping. It smoked the clutch so it might be locked up now. I am debating to flush or not. I don't like flushing products....I have always been a denatured or isopropyl alcohol flusher on the few I have flushed and I think only condensers anyway.
I don't think this system even has a receiver/drier. It may have a small filter/drier in the high side closer to compressor. I will have to look.
Any crud or ring pieces from compressor (don't know if it has metal or teflon etc) should be in the condenser or caught at the screen on the expansion valve so I might unhook and look there and flush or blow condenser backwards.

I have never liked putting an air hose to ac component but I'm not going to go buy nitrogen just for this. I have CO2/Argon but that is expensive!!! Lol I guess I could spare a few strong shots. Not sure how much better than air CO2/Argon would be but would have to be better than moist shop air in this humidity.

Back to sealer. I know the stuff you are talking about that clogged machine. Prob the interdynamics stuff. I used it once and it was a gray rubbery mess and clogged an LHS expansion valve instantly. Total waste of 19.99 but I did clean out expansion valve and it flowed afterwards through all other parts.
I have never had the Red Angel clog anything but all sealers are risky and best to find and fix the problem.
 
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