Running Board Lubricant

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19ExpMaxPlatYYC

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I've purchased motors and bushing/bearings for the hinges on the powered running boards and see that the bearings (no idea why they're called bearings) are made from PTFE. A bit of searching yieleds that hydrocarbons and PTFE don't get along.

My gut has been that the penetrating oils and lubricants that are recommended are wrong based upon the fact they haven't seemed to help me or seemingly anyone maintain function on the power running boards. The recommendation from the searches is to use PTFE based lubricants for PTFE...not exactly rocket science.

The thought is that once the PTFE bushing/bearing gives up, you seize up, then you start throwing hydrocarbon based penetrating oils and lubricants at it and you're done. That's exactly what happened to mine.

Core points from the search:
  • Avoid using hydrocarbon-based lubricants on PTFE, as they don't mix well.
  • For some applications, like door hinges, PTFE bushings may work best with only PTFE-based lubricants.
  • In high-stress environments like racing, specialized formulations with additional additives like hexagonal boron nitride (hBN) may provide even better performance.
In conclusion, PTFE-based lubricants are generally the best choice for PTFE bushings and bearings, offering low friction, compatibility, and longevity. However, the specific application and operating conditions should always be considered when selecting a lubricant.
 
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19ExpMaxPlatYYC

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Examples would be:

Most of the HBN lubricants seem to be dry or petroleum suspended. Haven't really found one.
 
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19ExpMaxPlatYYC

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A couple other interesting findings, add grease nipples...

 
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19ExpMaxPlatYYC

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This is what the bearings look like. 1000010384.jpg
 

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Benztech

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When I lube my running boards I spray all moving parts. See what pivots and lube it. The lube I use dries so you don't have to worry about accumulating a bunch dirt. I used it on motorcycle chains for years with no issues.
 

Fizzy

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Say what you will, but every winter my power running boards would seize up here when we got into the -30c range. The cold mixed with the road pickle (a salt and sand mix they spray on the roads) would render them inoperable.

I followed this YouTube video, and they worked flawlessly all winter.

Edit: Oh hey there fellow Calgarian...
 
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19ExpMaxPlatYYC

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Say what you will, but every winter my power running boards would seize up here when we got into the -30c range. The cold mixed with the road pickle (a salt and sand mix they spray on the roads) would render them inoperable.

I followed this YouTube video, and they worked flawlessly all winter.

Edit: Oh hey there fellow Calgarian...
That's exactly the stuff I saw recommended and used. Worked for a short while...then dead...
 

ccssid

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That's exactly the stuff I saw recommended and used. Worked for a short while...then dead...
I sent this video to a buddy of mine. He has a Toyota with power running boards. The dealer wanted approximately $1000.00 to repair. He followed the video. Voila. No more problems.
 

5280tunage

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I use Boeshield T-9. Seems to work great for me. Generally, I would say stuff designed for aviation use probably works pretty well on cars. 2-3 times per year, I soak the "moving" parts with a penetrating oil, give them a few good sprays, scrub with a plastic bristle brush, spray em' down again (into an oil catcher of course), then finish off with Boeshield. I too liver where there is lots of stuff used on the roads, this so far has worked well.
 

duneslider

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A little confused here, those bearings/bushings posted look like metal to me? Is the picture deceiving, or are they metal? Where is the PTFE bearing located, or are they pictures of a really shiny PTFE?
 
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19ExpMaxPlatYYC

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The PTFE is a coating on the inside of the bushing/bearings.

I have found some conflict on whether PTFE is compatible with hydrocarbon based lubricants, but it is clear that a PTFE lubricant is superior.
 

duneslider

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The PTFE is a coating on the inside of the bushing/bearings.

I have found some conflict on whether PTFE is compatible with hydrocarbon based lubricants, but it is clear that a PTFE lubricant is superior.
So, typically, ptfe is used in areas that won't be lubed. My concern with what I see in those bushings is that the black stuff is the ptfe, a thin layer on the metal that is then in contact with metal and as soon as an abrasive gets in there it will strip the ptfe right off. This isn't like the whole bushing is ptfe and there could be swelling happening or something like that. I am also not sure if ptfe even swells when in contact with hydrocarbon based lubricants. But what I do know is if I rub metal on my teflon pan the teflon comes off. I am guessing that it won't matter what lube you use, the ptfe is gonna get worn off and things will start getting stuck.
 

JohnT

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Another Albertan here, once it gets to constant below freezing I set the running boards to "out" and leave them like that for winter. As stated above once the ice builds up around the hinges its immobile anyway. I have a good set of mudflaps and so far after 5 years and 190K no visible damage on the running boards from gravel.

And there is a bit of a sequence to getting the boards to stay out, while sitting inside with the door closed, set the boards to "out" first, then to "off" if you just set them to out they will go back in first time you open and close a door.
 

Left Coast Geek

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I do note from driving loaner Expedition 4Gs, the power running boards in 'out' position are quite a bit lower than the fixed running boards, hence easier to catch on rocks and such when out in the wilds. My wife, who has short legs and bad knees, finds it much easier to get in and out of a power running board vehicle than the fixed boards.

I'm digging through the service manual that someone here uploaded awhile back. and learned a few things. You're supposed to disable the PRB in the 'retract' position before jacking the car. there's no lubrication listed at all, if the boards are crunchy, manually extend them, and clean any debris, they say you can use a power washer but avoid directly blasting the motor.
 
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