Spark plug gap and torque

[rwmorrisonjr]

I'm going to change the plugs on my 2012 with 97500 on the clock, and need the plug gap and torque info. I've googled it and found .052-.056" for gap and 9-15 lb/ft for torque, but want to confirm those numbers before starting the work.

 

[1955moose]

Well you've got the gap right, from what I read about the first two gens, and probably pertains to yours. A little more torque, at 18-22 ft lbs. theirs controversy about whether or not to use anti sieze on plugs. Me I would use a thin amount. Steel and aluminum don't mix with air. I've seen so many plugs take out aluminum threads. Don't over torque plugs. 18-20 is what I hear on ft lbs. any one else want to chime in on Torque!


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[ManUpOrShutUp]

9-15 lb/ft is correct. I'll second the vote for anti-seize. I use just a very light coat of high temp nickel anti-seize. If you use it remember to knock about 20% off those torque numbers. So if you're aiming for 12 lb/ft, stop when the needle read 9.5 lb/ft.

 

[rwmorrisonjr]

I went with .052-.056" gap and 10 ft/lbs (120 in/lbs) torque since the plugs were seated firmly with just hand tightening, and I didn't want to risk stripping the threads by going too tight. Did a run around the neighborhood and on the highway it it runs like a top; seems to have a little more low-end oomph to it now. Also did the throttle body cleaning.

All said, I saved $986 over what the dealer wanted to charge me for the service. They wanted to charge ~$240 for parts that I got, from the same dealer, for ~$144. Three hours labor later, I'm good for another 100k miles!

 

[danzaokid]

Update - for those with metric 1.4mm = 0.054". Also don't forget the dielectric grease on the plug connectors. Turns out the individual coil boots only uses spring tension to make electrical contact. The old distributor and individual spare plug wires used a snap type connection.