Starting Problem Ideas?

[ARiley23]

Well, good luck with that.

Everything all passed starter Battery and alternator.
I am going to check out the connections at the starter to see if they are corroded and need cleaning.

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[stamp11127]

How did they test the starter?

 

[ARiley23]

How did they test the starter?

The guy said it really is not an actual test. If the vehicle starts it passes. They tested it through the battery with the same device used to test the battery and alternator.

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[Bedrck47]

Make sure that your rear wiper is not causing a drain on the battery.

do a parasitic draw test see my previous post and the link I posted

 

[stamp11127]

That is why most of the auto parts stores are not accurate for testing. You have to get the vehicle to them in order to troubleshoot. Of course it will pass when it is working.

You have to get the readings when it isn't starting.

 

[1955moose]

You might want to pull starter and have it load tested multiple times. As stamp stated, you've got to duplicate conditions. Remember it never hurts when you go to the doctor!

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[ARiley23]

You might want to pull starter and have it load tested multiple times. As stamp stated, you've got to duplicate conditions. Remember it never hurts when you go to the doctor!

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Whenever it warms up first thing I'm doing in pulling the starter off and having it tested.

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[theoldwizard1]

IMHO, the best way to test a battery

• Fully charge it with a decent smart charger, then let it rest for at least 30 minutes
• Check the battery voltage at the posts
• With the volt meter still attached, crank the engine.

The previous chart was pretty reasonable for resting battery voltage, but that is not the "acid" test. When cranking it might dip below 12V for a moment. That is acceptable. Anything lower than 11.0-11.5 is not.

Tell the person operating the key, IF it is a no crank, hold the key in the start position. It is critical to read the battery voltage at this time. If it is not dropping into that 11.0-11.5V range, you likely have a bad wire or connection. Could be between the positive side of the battery and the starter or between the negative side of the battery and the engine block.

Assuming it starts and all the above tests pass, the simplest way to test alternator output is to turn on ALL electric loads: high beams, blower, wipers (on high), rear wiper, heated seats, radio and hold your foot on the brake. MINIMUM voltage at the battery should > 13.4V, high 13s is preferable.

 

[1955moose]

One thing I might add, if your starter and battery check out OK, you might want to replace positive cables, both the one from battery to solenoid, and solenoid to battery. What happens more than you think, is corrosion builds up inside cable. When this happens you get all kinds of weird scenarios. In some cases it does like what your experiencing, others its a parasitic drain on the battery. That ones always fun when you pull every fuse, and nothing. Had the last issue on my 84 Lincoln. Tried everything else, went to my buddy at Serramonte Ford, bought an oem cable with boot, and voila! No more drained Batteries. Maybe Stamp or Bedrck could explain why it happens. Just a cheap parts swap in case everything else gets a good report. Inside your starter theirs a commutator that may have developed a dead spot, have the guy/girl testing it to do it in multiple spots.

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[rjdelp7]

I had a Duralast gold battery with 12.2V do the same thing. It was only 30 months old. My car is a 2011 and in in perfect shape. The battery was shot. I was told Autozone batteries only last 3yrs. The store couldn't find my phone number in computer, so I was SOL. You can also try crossing the 2 large terminals, on the solenoid(with a screwdriver). It is on the firewall, next to battery. Caution, it will spark and turn starter motor(it should). Check you CD changer. Mine was stuck in eject mode and killed my battery. It ejects with the key off.

 

[ARiley23]

Well unfortunately I'm thinking more of its a parasitic draw. Went out right now to start it and just a click checked the battery and it is at 11.8
I ran some off road lights a couple weeks back but those are all ran correctly and had the same harnesses hooked up for months and had no issues so I don't think it's those. I'm stumped.

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[rjdelp7]

You can make a "test" light, with a 12v light bulb. Disconnect negative terminal. Connect the bulb to terminal and other lead to negative cable. If bulb lights, you have a parasitic drain.

 

[ARiley23]

You can make a "test" light, with a 12v light bulb. Disconnect negative terminal. Connect the bulb to terminal and other lead to negative cable. If bulb lights, you have a parasitic drain.

I have a test light. But I just charged it up and try and start it i get nothing but a single click


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[Bedrck47]

You can make a "test" light, with a 12v light bulb. Disconnect negative terminal. Connect the bulb to terminal and other lead to negative cable. If bulb lights, you have a parasitic drain.

Very true It will show a drain JUST HOW MUCH DRAIN it won't show These expeditions will always have some drain due to circuits like the clock PCM and anti-theft

So using a test light will be a waste of time if you need to know HOW MUCH AMPS are being used

 

[stamp11127]

This problem and the various solutions presented is a good example of why I teach our students Voltage Drop testing. Takes the guess work out of fixing things.

Did the problem exist before the lights were added?
How many amps do the lights draw?
If the draw is high, did you use a relay?

 

[ARiley23]

Well I was able to get it to start my jumping the actual starter. Using the screwdriver trick.

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[Bedrck47]

What I don't understand is THE OP has a meter and has been given information on how to do a parasitic drain test and yet he hasn't used that information to help him figure out the problem

 

[rjdelp7]

MY jammed CD changer caused my test light to pulse. I pulled fuses until I found it. It was the radio fuse. The light went dim and after 10 minutes, barely lit. I still say the battery make be toast. Try headlamps, are the bright/working.

 

[Bedrck47]

Just like earlier You need to know battery voltage by using a Volt Meter NOT TEST LIGHT.

The same is true for knowing amp draw Take a amp meter and put in in series with the neg batter cable and read the amp draw POST THE READING then start pulling fuses to see what is causing a big drain on the battery

 

[Bedrck47]

MY jammed CD changer caused my test light to pulse. I pulled fuses until I found it. It was the radio fuse. The light went dim and after 10 minutes, barely lit. I still say the battery make be toast. Try headlamps, are the bright/working.

So how many amps did your test light show you were drawing??