Stock suspension rebuild a DIY?

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97ExpGuy

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I did a quick search before posting this and only found one thread that was related but it didn't fully answer my questions.

I have a 97 xlt w/o air ride and I'm thinking about doing a total suspension rebuild (front and rear) including bushings, shocks, ball joints, tie rods, etc. I've read in numerous places online that these items wear and need attention. I'm experiencing some mild clunks and weird vertical play in the steering wheel that is only noticeable when you hit bumps. The wheel and column are not physically loose when I attempt to move it so I figure something is worn out on the front end.

From a visual inspection the stock bushings are dried out, cracked, and shot. I have 135k on the clock and figure the ball joints (which are stock) need to go as well. While I'm on the subject, they started to squeak a year ago which I combated by buying a needle and injecting each one with grease which eliminated the squeaking. I have been doing this every 5k for the past 10k and figure I'm only slowing the problem down...

Moving on, I'm also suffering from rusting trailing arms and panhard bar and know those might be worth a removal and sand blasting to either re-coat with POR-15 or just replace.

My question is this: given the current list of items I'm looking at addressing, is this a DIY job considering I don't have an impact gun? I realize I'm going to be encountering some bigger bolts that will require some torque to move and thinking realistically, I'm not sure if I'll be over my head. I consider myself mechanically competent and I'm confident I could do the job such as renting the proper tools (ball joint press tool for example) but I'm also concerned that I might not be able complete it as this will be a one man job.

Thoughts? Experiences? Comments?
 

sgtowing

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Any of it can be done with a breaker bar. That being said, an impact gun would make it MUCH easier. The first thing I would do is repeatedly soak every nut and bolt with wd40 or blaster for a couple of days. Everything is pretty much straightforward. Unbolt, remove, replace and retighten. The only thing you have to watch is count the # of turns it takes to get the tie rods off. Make sure you put them back on the same # of turns so you don't mess with the alignment to much so you can drive it to be professionally done.

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Bremsen

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Beyond hand tools you might also want to have a heat source (MAP gas) and sawzall (and lots of blades) around. When I did my front end I had to take it to the shop to remove one of the tie rods and he had to break out the acetylene torch. Rear CA arm bolts were rusted to the bushings so I had to cut them all out with a sawzall.

In all, it's doable, but not enjoyable. Be prepared for lots of cursing.
 

expydaddy

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The front end wasn't that difficult, even with hand tools. I just did my lower balljoints, shocks, upper control arms and shocks. My trailing arms and springs were good so I just did the shocks on the rear. You will definately need a breaker bar or a long cheater pipe. Also the rear drivers side shock was a real pita because of clearance problems. Namely the gas tank.

There is a great diy on youtube under 1aauto. If I find the link I'll post it later tonight after work. Also you need a torque wrench that goes to 250 ft/lbs.
Good luck.
 

masterhacker

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Ill pass on some advice seeing as I just did my front end

Buy quality parts (moog), and your going to want to have access to a press to get lower bushings out, (local shop will probably do it for like $20) If your doing upper ball joints (i think its possible to replace them) just buy a new upper control arm its not much expensive, I think it ran me around $300 for all parts

Your going to need a adapter for a ball joint press because of the way the lower control arm is designed. When doing the lower ball joint you need to pull Cv joint's or you cant get it off the spindle (and you need a 12 point socket), I don't bother with torque wrenches on suspension I just go as tight as I can.

If you are doing tie rods have a appointment scheduled right away cause you will probably need one, even if you measure/count turns

You might as well replace idler/pit man arm while you are under there, you need to pull power steering box but its only 2 bolts, then prop it up so it doesn't hang by hoses and put pit man puller on

ooh final tip you can get all the parts needed online for like 1/2 of what they cost at parts stores

I did mine spent probably 8-10 hours, but that included slicing the crap out of my hand, and breaks/meals, anyways its totally a 1 man job, 2 people helps, but is not necessary.

I have 2 brand new sets of lower control arm bushings (i said screw replacing them on my truck) I'd sell you for like $40 shipped if your interested, also a brand new pit man arm (I somehow got 2 shipped to me), Id do like 30 shipped on that, I'd do like $65 shipped for everything
Links W/prices
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5453G/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C59ZV8/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00
 
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jdan

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My trailing arms are rusted also. I'd recommend just replace them since they are already made out of thin material or just step it up and get some beef aftermarkets.
 

One Mean Green

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Today, I finally got my Expeditions rear brakes replaced. Pads, rotors and calipers and 1 of the fron swaybar links that was broken. While they had it in the air they had me come out and look at my rear trailing arms and swaybar. I am going to have to have both trailing arms and all the swaybar stuff replaced because it all is in bad shape from corrosion. I am going to have to pay to have this work done because I am disabled. I will go for the aftermarket heavey duty trailing arms that others have bought on eBay and Moog or other good quality swaybar components. If figure if I am going to have it done might as well go all out and do it right.:werd07::grd::werd07:
 
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