Stuck Rotors

[Vigilante]

In the spirit of giving this season, I decided to throw some more money at the expedition. This time with a little bit of an upgrade to the brakes. Successfully completed the driver side, however, have been working for a few days now on the passenger side. The front right rotor is rusted to the hub. The old nut and bolt through the caliper mount trick has resulted in over a dozen sheared bolts. Penetrating oil, mallet, pry bar, and every combination have all resulted in no progress. What else can I do? Do I have to just cut the damn thing off?

 

[Vigilante]

Another 2 sheared bolts.

I am now out of bolts to use on this.

Looks like it will have to be heat.

 

[IMINYOURCHAIR]

have you tried beating the piss out of it with a big ass hammer?

 

[stamp11127]

Liberal use of PB Blaster, let it soak for 24 hrs, then use a sledge hammer to free it. Hit on back side, rotate rotor 180, hit again. Use manly hits and eye protection. You can also hit the rotors edge to help.

 

[Vigilante]

I would rather not have to re do the bearings (which I did when I put the last rotors on about 30k ago).

These totors have a little over 30k miles and I can't believe they are as rusted on as they are.

 

[69Hcode]

Once you get it apart put some anti seize where the rotors mate to the hub. I've been doing this on 80lb drums on fire trucks. Makes them easier to get apart later.

 

[thewishkah]

I know you said you did the bolt through the bracket already but I did the same thing and broke some bolts. The only way I got them off was to buy harder grade bolts and use an impact gun and as you do it back off the bolt and turn the rotor and go again eventually you will hear it pop free. And before anyone asks I did use a big hammer and heavy hits, I just kept cracking pieces off the rotors. All 4 of mine were stuck( fronts to the hub, backs to the ebrake that was frozen.

 

[tonydiv]

WD 40 Rust Release penetrant is the best stuff out there. Soak it front and back and let it sit for an hour. Then go pick up some grade 8 bolts and nuts and try it again.

 

[BULLDOG]

Big hammer works pretty well in 99.9% of the cases.
Actually I used to cut brake drum once, in that case a bearing was part of the drum, and I had no choice but cut the whole thing. It was Citroen AX 1991.

In case with Expy just slam the rotor from OUTSIDE!!! a few times in ONE spot on the edge, it should work.

 

[BAD RONALD]

Before I ever learned the bolt trick, way back in BFH rotor thrashing times, the passenger side rotor on my '01 refused to succumb to a beating. I ended up drilling three holes close together in a line perpendicular to the outer edge of the rotor. I then put a chisel in between the holes and drove it as a wedge to split the steel. This was pretty easy to do actually. It was not necessary for me to bust the entire rotor in half, as soon as the steel cracked it released and popped right off.

I've heard of guys using a sawzall, a grinder, a dremel tool, nuclear warheads, etc to the same effect. I used a drill because it was the closest power tool at hand that day. I would repeat the method if the bolt trick ever failed. Way less violence is required.

 

[chucks97expy]

I used a grinder, was the only way for me. Soaked mine in oil, I tried the bolt trick through the caliper mounting holes, no good. I beat on it with a sledge hammer and nothing but chunks of metal came off. I read online that a guy used a grinder with a cut off wheel and I did the same. Cut the damn things in half, across the face of the rotor. Had to be careful not to go to deep as the wheel hub sits behind it and use protective eye wear, the sparks are insane. Nuclear warheads LOL....if I had it I would have used it!

 

[IMINYOURCHAIR]

just go ride the brakes...that'll get em hot..

 

[Vigilante]

Cut it off. All 3 other rotors slid right off. But this one was nuts!

 

[thenaaks]

You have to be careful with the bolts through the caliper mount. I cranked so hard on mine that I actually bent it out of shape. Tried everything in the world, including heating, oiling, cutting with a grinder, and welding big beads onto it trying to break the bond. Finally wound up pulling out the hub bearing and rotor together. All that beating can't be good on the rest of the suspension and drivetrain.

 

[BAD RONALD]

...All that beating can't be good on the rest of the suspension...

I always thought about this whenever I raised a sledge. It is the reason I was impressed by splitting the offending rotor over beating on it beyond comfort level. A grinder slit, sawzall cut or line of holes drilled can be wedged using a heavy chisel and way less force to break the bond.

 

[splintrcel]

I had this happen to one of my front rotors. There are certain things you have to do before a project can be completed. Sacrifices must be made to the car gods in the form of cursing before anything will get done. The more cursing the better. That or a mapp gas torch is your best friend because it loosens up rust and locktite. Heat up the rotor where it makes with the spindle assm and take a metal hammer (not like a nail hammer but one that has some mass) and smack around the edges till it comes off. It may take several repetitions. Either the rotor will come off or the steel will crack apart and then the rotor still comes off, but in pieces. You can fix this issue in the future by buying higher quality rotors made of better alloys that inhibit rust and by putting some WD-40 on the contact surface. I live in WI so I have plenty of issues with stupid rust but not since i have been using plenty of anti seize and WD-40.

 

[BAD RONALD]

Anti-seize is vital I agree.

WD-40 should not be thought of as anything more than a cleaner or penetrant.

 

[2011EL]

Finally wound up pulling out the hub bearing and rotor together.

That statement just blew my mind. No joke. I beat the crap out of one of my rear rotors for two days last weekend to no avail. I've spent the last week watching tons of videos with tips that haven't worked for me. I actually removed the 4 hub bolts and NEVER thought to simply pull the whole thing out at once. I'm replacing both the hub and rotor anyway. I think it was the Houston heat that got to me. I will be trying this method first thing Sat morning!!

 

[JasonH]

That statement just blew my mind. No joke. I beat the crap out of one of my rear rotors for two days last weekend to no avail. I've spent the last week watching tons of videos with tips that haven't worked for me. I actually removed the 4 hub bolts and NEVER thought to simply pull the whole thing out at once. I'm replacing both the hub and rotor anyway. I think it was the Houston heat that got to me. I will be trying this method first thing Sat morning!!

I'm embarrassed to say it, but I had my emergency brake on the first time I replaced my rear rotors. They were much easier to pull with the brake OFF for obvious reasons. Harbor freight has a three-jaw puller that does the job. Sometimes heating the rotor hat with a hand torch may help as well. Metal obviously expands, and not necessarily at the same rate.

 

[Hamfisted]

These are good bolts to use for pushing the rotors off if they're stuck on .... They're impact tool rated and have a bearing on the tip for torque relief ....

Hardened Press Bolts for Stuck Rotors on Amazon














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