GAINMOB
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found this...http://www.supercrewsound.com/FEN10-TN.html
Subwoofer replacement
- Thread starter catmandu
- Start date
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rburch
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Great pics Freeway! that will help him a lot! now just get on Craigslist and find you a sub and amp!
Big Red Monster
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thank all of you guys i greatly appreciate it imma try to get the sub amp and maybe enclousre with my tax return but for right now i think it gonna have to stay broke. im gonna put a better sub and amp as long as i can keep my original stereo
GAINMOB
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+1 for craig...also check ebay/thedeepdiscount.com/sonicelectronics
Big Red Monster
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btw free way ur lucky where ur amp is mine is not that accessible
Big Red Monster
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well i went to the audio shop by my house. Im going to end up getting a kenwood excelon subwoofer and a kenwood 300 watt amp. its going to be mounted in the original subwoofer houseing. i cant spend that much money on the thunderform enclosure. unless i find one cheap by the time i get the sub. i wanted to do it myself but as easy as it is fro some of you guys for me its harder to understand, this is my first truck that came with a subwoofer and the first vehicle that needs stereo work so Imma leave it to the professionals lol
cnovalles73
Well-Known Member
Can anyone point in the direction of a link that where I can find a decent 8" sub to replace mine? I DO want aftermarket & plan to go route of amp, new head unit...etc...
Big Red Monster
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well im getting a kenwood excelon sub thats what the guy recommended for me seeing as Im not willing to spend the money on JL audio he told me kenwood is the best choice for me
GAINMOB
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im undecided what to go with...staying with kicker cvr's right now...but i'm going with HERTZ Energy series 6.5 components...OMG!!! i havent heard anything that can top these when comparing to kicker/kenwood/alpine and whatever is at your local shops...$270 a pair...
WHOISMOOTOO
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got 4 kenwood 12's and i love them dearly, before that i had two kenwood 10's that werte kidnapped from my truck, cheap and effective!
TexasAngel34
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love this thread, i want to replace my amp and sub also, i dont have the factory radio anymore , just bought a indash dvd setup.. what is the best amp/sub to replace the factory ones with? and do i need any special items to make them work .. ? Thanks...
rightnow i have a sony cd deck with a fosgate 700W amp...
rightnow i have a sony cd deck with a fosgate 700W amp...
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cnovalles73
Well-Known Member
Please do this
Buy this sub and hook it up to your stock amp
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_777B17/Sound-Ordnance-B-17.html?tp=112
ITS CRAZY GOOD! best of both worlds! works great with the stock amp!
Buy this sub and hook it up to your stock amp
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_777B17/Sound-Ordnance-B-17.html?tp=112
ITS CRAZY GOOD! best of both worlds! works great with the stock amp!
scot008
New Member
JBL GTO 804 or Polk MM840
Even if your subwoofer is not blown, this is a good, inexpensive upgrade:
JBL GTO804 Reduced Depth 8-Inch Subwoofer
It works well with the factory amp, and it sounds much tighter than the factory driver. Organ pipes sound like organ pipes, and base fiddles sound like base fiddles, instead of vague thumps. The JBL is also more efficient.
However, do not get this driver (or any other upgraded 8 inch subwoofer) expecting an easy and quick substitution. The factory enclosure must be modified to accept the added depth of this subwoofer and many others. Also, the speaker mounting holes do not quite line up. The factory enclosure has a molded platform that permits an additional mounting screw into the center of the subwoofer magnet. To mount the deeper JBL, I had to cut an inch off this platform and reseal the enclosure using a steel plate, about 10 3/4" screws and half a tube of silicon. I redrilled the speaker mounting holes to match the new driver, and attached the JBL using #8 T-nuts held in place with plastic epoxy and #8 machine screws. Lastly, I had to remove some of the damping material from the eclosure to accommodate the much larger magnet on the JBL.
The improved sound made all of this work worthwhile, but I have subsequently realized that there might be an easier way to do it. There is a full inch of clearance between the subwoofer and the speaker grill, and the whole procedure might be done using an adapter ring at the front of the enclosure. I would probably use polycarbonate sheet like Lexan to make the ring.
The mounting depth of the factory driver is 3 1/2", and the mounting depth of the JBL GTO804 is 4 5/16", for a difference of 13/16". So, a 3/4" adapter ring with a 1/16" gasket would work, provided the enclosure did not rattle against the back of the magnet.
A 3/4" adapter ring would definitely work with the Polk Audio MM840. It uses a more powerful and compact neodymium magnet that gives the driver a 4 1/8" mouting depth.
I wish I had thought of these things before I embarked on the project. Oh, well.
My next upgrade will be to replace the amp with Rockford Fosgate R500-1D, witch supplies 250 watts RMS into 4 ohms. It is about the same size as the factory amp and will mount transparently.
And then, I will probably need a 10" subwoofer in order truly to scare passengers with the cannon shots in the 1812 Overature. It never ends.
Even if your subwoofer is not blown, this is a good, inexpensive upgrade:
JBL GTO804 Reduced Depth 8-Inch Subwoofer
It works well with the factory amp, and it sounds much tighter than the factory driver. Organ pipes sound like organ pipes, and base fiddles sound like base fiddles, instead of vague thumps. The JBL is also more efficient.
However, do not get this driver (or any other upgraded 8 inch subwoofer) expecting an easy and quick substitution. The factory enclosure must be modified to accept the added depth of this subwoofer and many others. Also, the speaker mounting holes do not quite line up. The factory enclosure has a molded platform that permits an additional mounting screw into the center of the subwoofer magnet. To mount the deeper JBL, I had to cut an inch off this platform and reseal the enclosure using a steel plate, about 10 3/4" screws and half a tube of silicon. I redrilled the speaker mounting holes to match the new driver, and attached the JBL using #8 T-nuts held in place with plastic epoxy and #8 machine screws. Lastly, I had to remove some of the damping material from the eclosure to accommodate the much larger magnet on the JBL.
The improved sound made all of this work worthwhile, but I have subsequently realized that there might be an easier way to do it. There is a full inch of clearance between the subwoofer and the speaker grill, and the whole procedure might be done using an adapter ring at the front of the enclosure. I would probably use polycarbonate sheet like Lexan to make the ring.
The mounting depth of the factory driver is 3 1/2", and the mounting depth of the JBL GTO804 is 4 5/16", for a difference of 13/16". So, a 3/4" adapter ring with a 1/16" gasket would work, provided the enclosure did not rattle against the back of the magnet.
A 3/4" adapter ring would definitely work with the Polk Audio MM840. It uses a more powerful and compact neodymium magnet that gives the driver a 4 1/8" mouting depth.
I wish I had thought of these things before I embarked on the project. Oh, well.
My next upgrade will be to replace the amp with Rockford Fosgate R500-1D, witch supplies 250 watts RMS into 4 ohms. It is about the same size as the factory amp and will mount transparently.
And then, I will probably need a 10" subwoofer in order truly to scare passengers with the cannon shots in the 1812 Overature. It never ends.
bobholthaus
Member
Scot008- thanks for the ideas. I might try your advice on going with rings. As I'm brand new to this forum and expeditions (I'm helping a friend), can you give me the basics on sub amp location and whether there's a factory amp and how it's all wired. Friend has 06 with nav and we want to do new hu, 4 speakers with their own amp, & new sub with the same Rockford amp you mention. Thanks.
Expeditionary
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right now I have a kenwood ddx318 HU with along with the stock speaker and sup amps from the mach audio system, I have the stock amp powering 3 JL audio 10W0s that are 12ohm a piece wired down to 4 ohms, idk how much power the stock amp puts out but those subs are PLENTY loud for me right now, even though I have a 1000.1 hifonics class D mono amp laving around here fresh out of the box that for some reason or another doesnt put out power.
thaT stock amp will push a ton of power with an aftermarket headunit, so any good kicker, JL, rockford, pioneer, kenwood, alpine, 8" sub is going to get the beats pumping real well.
My set up shakes the rear view vibrates the seats and rattles the trunk like crazy. 3 10s on stock power... who'd a thunk...
thaT stock amp will push a ton of power with an aftermarket headunit, so any good kicker, JL, rockford, pioneer, kenwood, alpine, 8" sub is going to get the beats pumping real well.
My set up shakes the rear view vibrates the seats and rattles the trunk like crazy. 3 10s on stock power... who'd a thunk...
GAINMOB
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i have a 3600 watt amp now...i'll be looking at doing a custom install by either putting it in the hatch area where the jack is (removing all that) and putting battery in factory sub spot or removing the factory sub and installing it there with another battery
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