Those with catch cans...

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J Ski

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if you have any type of catch can installed; what brand, how often do you drain it, what do the contents look like, and how much do you get.

For me: JLT passenger side, 1500-2000 miles, sand colored with some dark liquid mixed in, 1.5-2oz
 

bobmbx

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if you have any type of catch can installed; what brand, how often do you drain it, what do the contents look like, and how much do you get.

For me: JLT passenger side, 1500-2000 miles, sand colored with some dark liquid mixed in, 1.5-2oz
Just for kicks, pour it into a glass, cover it to prevent evaporation, and let it settle. I wonder how much of this captured fluid is water. What kind of driving do you do, e.g.; single trip distances. For me, I drive 5 miles a day, in 2 2.5 mile legs, so my engine does not regularly run at normal temps Mon-Fri.

I don't have a catch can, but I suspect I'm getting much more condensate built up because it rarely has an opportunity to boil off. The oil on my stick doesn't show anything out of the ordinary, although the truck is brand new and right now is in for its 2nd oil change (10k mile service).
 
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J Ski

J Ski

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Just for kicks, pour it into a glass, cover it to prevent evaporation, and let it settle. I wonder how much of this captured fluid is water. What kind of driving do you do, e.g.; single trip distances. For me, I drive 5 miles a day, in 2 2.5 mile legs, so my engine does not regularly run at normal temps Mon-Fri.

I don't have a catch can, but I suspect I'm getting much more condensate built up because it rarely has an opportunity to boil off. The oil on my stick doesn't show anything out of the ordinary, although the truck is brand new and right now is in for its 2nd oil change (10k mile service).
Work commute is 10 minutes there and back. Occasional 200-300 miles trips 2-3 times a month. Mostly city driving some highway occasionally. Oil changes are between 3500 and 5000 miles full synthetic. Ive let the liquid settle once before and the thick viscous sand colored crap is obviously heavier so the “oily waste” sat on top.

I cleaned the intake manifold MAP sensor the day I installed the can. It was completely caked in oil. After I cleaned it, about 5000 miles ago or so, I haven’t seen any oil or build up on it so I know the can is working
 

limitedex

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My 2013 3.5L Ecoboost F150 drains about 4-8oz every 1,500-3,000 miles. I use UPR catch can. Fluid is mostly milky, lots of water, and then sometimes some nasty thick(er) sludge. Also high gasoline smell mixed with oil. I also drillled a pinhole in my CAC if anyone is interested.
 

East-TN

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JLT on passenger side. 1.5 oz after 1100 miles. Milky look with water, and I drive mostly short (2-4 mile) trips.
 

DF5.4

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JLT Passenger side. I just emptied it after 700 miles and got 2.4 oz. The milky/dark liquid everyone else is seeing. I'm going to check it again in a month.
 

Boostedbus

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E07AF97A-7BC9-4D9F-A21D-29627F8B8C7E.jpeg 713B4A5B-4949-48A8-A949-5802B918BC98.jpegI been emptying it every so often into the same cup so this is an accumulation reading of over a 1,230 mi span. Team RXP can on a 2017 with 7,101 mi on engine. Installed the can at 5,870 mi. It has a gas smell in the oil but not much water/condensation.That may be because it’s garage keep so engine start up temps aren’t much of a cold morning start up
 
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J Ski

J Ski

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View attachment 24743 View attachment 24744I been emptying it every so often into the same cup so this is an accumulation reading of over a 1,230 mi span. Team RXP can on a 2017 with 7,101 mi on engine. Installed the can at 5,870 mi. It has a gas smell in the oil but not much water/condensation.That may be because it’s garage keep so engine start up temps aren’t much of a cold morning start up
Good stuff here! Hopefully ppl on the seesaw of whether or not to get one will see the results here and buy one, whatever type it may be
 

rjdelp7

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All vehicles produce this. On engines with direct injection, it may coat the intakes valves. Turbo vehicles produce more blow by, because of forced induction. There is no safe way to clean intake valves, without potential turbo damage. They must be cleaned, by removing the head. Ford claims a second set of port injectors, solved the problem. They could of added a catch can instead(If it worked). It would been much cheaper than retooling the engines and adding more fuel injectors. The older, direct injection only, models should definitely have one. Ford did not want the negative impact, of new owners dumping out an oily mess, on a regular basis. They know people spending $70K, would not be happy about such a task. I doubt the EPA, would approve it.
 
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J Ski

J Ski

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All vehicles produce this. On engines with direct injection, it may coat the intakes valves. Turbo vehicles produce more blow by, because of forced induction. There is no safe way to clean intake valves, without potential turbo damage. They must be cleaned, by removing the head. Ford claims a second set of port injectors, solved the problem. They could of added a catch can instead(If it worked). It would been much cheaper than retooling the engines and adding more fuel injectors. The older, direct injection only, models should definitely have one. Ford did not want the negative impact, of new owners dumping out an oily mess, on a regular basis. They know people spending $70K, would not be happy about such a task. I doubt the EPA, would approve it.
Just properly dispose of the hazardous waste and you’ll be fine. This thread is for posting about what’s collected in a catch can. Don’t have one? Please don’t post your rants in here, there are other more open threads about cans to do that in.
 

07xln

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All vehicles produce this. On engines with direct injection, it may coat the intakes valves. Turbo vehicles produce more blow by, because of forced induction. There is no safe way to clean intake valves, without potential turbo damage. They must be cleaned, by removing the head. Ford claims a second set of port injectors, solved the problem. They could of added a catch can instead(If it worked). It would been much cheaper than retooling the engines and adding more fuel injectors. The older, direct injection only, models should definitely have one. Ford did not want the negative impact, of new owners dumping out an oily mess, on a regular basis. They know people spending $70K, would not be happy about such a task. I doubt the EPA, would approve it.

Here we go again :facepalm: :whymewhyme:

Not one automobile manufacturer installs a catch can from the factory. Not a million dollar Bugatti nor a $15k Kia or anything in between has one. Its not only a Ford thing or an Ecoboost thing, as much as you wish it was. Catch cans do work. The science and the proof is undeniable

I do agree that it would certainly be a maintenance item and have to be drained periodically which I would guess is a huge factor in not making them oem. PCV systems have done the job for decades no reason to change it up now.

Not gonna derail this thread so Im glad to see everyones cans are working as designed.
 

DF5.4

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I emptied mine again today. 600 miles and 1oz in it. I’m going to check it again in about another 600 miles. With a 3oz can I want to keep an eye on it.


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Dakota4ce

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So guys—tomorrow I am getting into a 2016 with 38,000 miles on it.

Purchased extended bumper to bumper to 98K miles. Stuff is just too expensive these days not to gamble the couple thousand dollars up front....and I am typically NOT a warranty guy.

Catch can or not? Any official word on IF it affects warranty coverage? To me, it seems like a logical component to have.

Also read a bit on tunes, and seems folks do tune their EBs while under warranty. Is this kosher?


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07xln

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Its gonna be up to the dealer and shouldn't come into play unless you have some sort of issue with the motor. Fact is its not an OEM part so even if it didn't contribute to the issue in question they could still deny a warranty claim.

Ive got 17K miles on my 17 model and have had it tuned for probably the last 5k miles. It runs so much better. But I have faith in this motor and Im not worried I'll have any issues with it. Just know though that a tune is an instant warranty voider.
 

coolzzy

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Simply return to stock tune 50-100 miles before bringing the truck in for any warranty work. It takes less than 10 minutes, and the tunes (I run a 5 star 87 octane performance tow tune) greatly increase day to day drivability. As long as you are not running an extreme performance tune, there really isn't any harm that will come to your motor. It's not like a mild tune is giving you 100+ horsepower or additional torque or even boost pressure.
 

East-TN

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Reviving the thread...here is a pic of my catch can today with about 1.5 ounces and 1500 miles:

JLT Catch Can - 1.5 OZ.jpg
 

East-TN

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What amount per 1,000 miles is everyone else getting?

I’m averaging about 1 ounce per 1,000 miles.
 

mquick5

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I don't doubt these amouts reported, but it's hard to believe these 3.5's have this much blow by! Even on jlt's Web site they say, if drain at oil changes it should never get full. At 1 oz. per 1k miles. You'd have to empty it atleast 2 times before the oil change.

I've only put around 1k miles on my Mustang, since I installed the Moroso oil separator. Today while out in the garage, I decided to drain it. And it was a waste of time, barely anything trickled out.

So the 3.5l twin turbo setup must have alot more blow by than my 4.6l with a Roush 2.3L phase 2 Supercharger.

This makes me really want to get a oil separator on my Expy asap, but it most likely will have to wait till spring.

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rjdelp7

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I thought Ford, corrected the dirty intake valve problem, with the return of port injectors? 2011-2015 are the motors that may have issues. Beware!
 
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