Had a plug blow out a couple weeks ago so I decided to fix the problem for good and do all 8 inserts. Of course, the problem cylinder was #4 so once that was over the others were pretty much cake.
I was considering doing a full DIY write-up, but after doing the procedure I don't want that kind of liability based on my directions. I'm a fairly competent wrench and have been working on cars for nearly 20 years now. This is a pretty major repair and consequences if you screw up are pretty serious. That being said, it wasn't all that difficult and the Time-Sert kit is reasonably fool-proof (tools are all self-centering).
I figured I would at least point out a few things for anyone considering doing the repair on their own. This is mostly what is required above and beyond replacing spark plugs. Again, its not a difficult procedure, just time consuming. It took me about 10 hours to do the job completely. The procedure is: ream out threads, ream out plug hole to insert size with counter sink, tap threads, clean, install insert, use driver to positively lock insert into head. Here are some of my mental notes:
-This is not for the faint of heart (wrench). Drilling and tapping holes in the cylinder head is pretty daunting, especially when they're still bolted to the block. Just take your time and be methodical in the process.
-An air ratchet is pretty much a necessity. It allows a constant, relatively slow, drilling rate for the reamer. It would take a very long time without it.
-Use copious amounts of thick grease on the tools to catch shavings.
-Have a shop vac with a small (1/2) flexible tube available to suck out shavings/grease. I also used an old tooth brush and some carb cleaner to clean the new threads before installing the insert.
-#4 and #7 are the problem cylinders as usual. I could not insert the TS tools into the heads assembled. With the reamers its not much of an issue since they have stops built in, but with the tap and insert driver you have to be mindful not to let the tool drop down into the cylinder. #4 can be accessed by snaking around the rear of the coolant tube. On #7 I could not use the main tool piece with the EGR valve in place. Since removing the EGR was not an option for me (I tried and failed) I was able to use a 12mm socket and a swivel but proceed with caution if you go this route.
-Fuel rails must come off injectors. This is stupid easy (2 8mm bolts and pry up), I'm not sure why people buy special tools to get to the #7 COP bolt.
-If you still have the mechanical fan, remove it so you can turn the motor to get each cylinder to compression stroke. Not sure if this is 100% necessary, but better safe than sorry.
-Pull all electrical off the fire wall on the pass side for better access. I just laid it down/pulled it out of the way.
I think that's about it. I'm happy I no longer have to worry about this issue. The plugs had a much more positive feel when re-installing and my spark issues are now finally completely gone. What I would like to do to the Ford engineers that designed these heads
A big thanks to Thermo, who saved me about $400 by lending me the tools. I'll get them shipped back to you tomorrow. Not that they'll ever see this post, but I also need to thank my brother for lending me his car for the week and my wife for giving me the time (eg: taking full care of our 3y/o) to get the repair done.
I'll be happy to answer any questions (here or via PM). While it wasn't the hardest thing I've done, its definitely up there on the PITA scale.
I was considering doing a full DIY write-up, but after doing the procedure I don't want that kind of liability based on my directions. I'm a fairly competent wrench and have been working on cars for nearly 20 years now. This is a pretty major repair and consequences if you screw up are pretty serious. That being said, it wasn't all that difficult and the Time-Sert kit is reasonably fool-proof (tools are all self-centering).
I figured I would at least point out a few things for anyone considering doing the repair on their own. This is mostly what is required above and beyond replacing spark plugs. Again, its not a difficult procedure, just time consuming. It took me about 10 hours to do the job completely. The procedure is: ream out threads, ream out plug hole to insert size with counter sink, tap threads, clean, install insert, use driver to positively lock insert into head. Here are some of my mental notes:
-This is not for the faint of heart (wrench). Drilling and tapping holes in the cylinder head is pretty daunting, especially when they're still bolted to the block. Just take your time and be methodical in the process.
-An air ratchet is pretty much a necessity. It allows a constant, relatively slow, drilling rate for the reamer. It would take a very long time without it.
-Use copious amounts of thick grease on the tools to catch shavings.
-Have a shop vac with a small (1/2) flexible tube available to suck out shavings/grease. I also used an old tooth brush and some carb cleaner to clean the new threads before installing the insert.
-#4 and #7 are the problem cylinders as usual. I could not insert the TS tools into the heads assembled. With the reamers its not much of an issue since they have stops built in, but with the tap and insert driver you have to be mindful not to let the tool drop down into the cylinder. #4 can be accessed by snaking around the rear of the coolant tube. On #7 I could not use the main tool piece with the EGR valve in place. Since removing the EGR was not an option for me (I tried and failed) I was able to use a 12mm socket and a swivel but proceed with caution if you go this route.
-Fuel rails must come off injectors. This is stupid easy (2 8mm bolts and pry up), I'm not sure why people buy special tools to get to the #7 COP bolt.
-If you still have the mechanical fan, remove it so you can turn the motor to get each cylinder to compression stroke. Not sure if this is 100% necessary, but better safe than sorry.
-Pull all electrical off the fire wall on the pass side for better access. I just laid it down/pulled it out of the way.
I think that's about it. I'm happy I no longer have to worry about this issue. The plugs had a much more positive feel when re-installing and my spark issues are now finally completely gone. What I would like to do to the Ford engineers that designed these heads
A big thanks to Thermo, who saved me about $400 by lending me the tools. I'll get them shipped back to you tomorrow. Not that they'll ever see this post, but I also need to thank my brother for lending me his car for the week and my wife for giving me the time (eg: taking full care of our 3y/o) to get the repair done.
I'll be happy to answer any questions (here or via PM). While it wasn't the hardest thing I've done, its definitely up there on the PITA scale.
