Toe Link removal

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Judge Mills

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I'm finally getting around to installing a lift on the rear of my 05'. The toe link nut is extremely hard moving. The bolt that is attached to spins with it, and so I put a socket on the end with a 8mm. It's moving, but extremely difficult. I've now broken my craftsman socket wrench. Any tips? I don't know why it's so hard coming off. I didn't see any obvious rust or dirt. I sprayed with PB before hand...

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Judge Mills

Judge Mills

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Never mind, problem solved.... now to order a new one!acbc13f02e171574bb4c0617d4461933.jpg

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Bain64

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Looks like you've got the problem solved, hopefully you were replacing anyway. I also destroyed 2 x 10mm's on a tie rod last weekend. The torch likely helped the most as RW stated, but I went and bought a set of metric impact sockets, and the 10mm deep well socket on an impact gun made the job much simpler.
 

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Don't do suspension work without a good medium to heavy duty cordless impact

A decent craftsman is like $130 at sears. Your back will DEFINITELY thank you, and you'll probably end up actually saving money on parts-not-destroyed and time-not-wasted

PS get an impact swivel elbow and a metric deep impact socket kit... for the deep impact, the chinky Craftsman "Evolv" is surprisingly sufficient, for the swivel you'll need to find a well-rated Amazon offbrand with good reviews (get the kind with a captive ball joint, none of that riveted crap) unless you're willing to shell out some major moolah
 
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Judge Mills

Judge Mills

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I have an impact, just didn't use it. But why would an impact not make the stud spin as apposed to a ratchet make the stud spin? The nut was about 1/4 to 1/3 of the way off before it started spinning.

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Big Brian

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because an impact causes a sudden on-off - on- off- burst of torque unlike a hand tool. Can make all the difference in the world

I ran a front end rack for a few years at a Ford dealer so I know all about this kind of stuff

For the record I have air tools, no electric stuff but would like to get some one day
 
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Judge Mills

Judge Mills

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I guess I wasn't clear in my original post. The stud was spinning, so I had to use a wrench on the nut and a socket on the end of the stud to keep from spinning, so that's why I couldn't use an impact. I also found out later last night that the nut was bent/pinched, causing it become difficult to remove, which probably caused the stud to break free.

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I guess I wasn't clear in my original post. The stud was spinning, so I had to use a wrench on the nut and a socket on the end of the stud to keep from spinning, so that's why I couldn't use an impact. I also found out later last night that the nut was bent/pinched, causing it become difficult to remove, which probably caused the stud to break free.

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Sometimes you just gotta give up and saw/grind/drill out stuff
 

Big Brian

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I guess I wasn't clear in my original post. The stud was spinning, so I had to use a wrench on the nut and a socket on the end of the stud to keep from spinning, so that's why I couldn't use an impact. I also found out later last night that the nut was bent/pinched, causing it become difficult to remove, which probably caused the stud to break free.

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Impact usually works anyway/ Blip it on and off a bunch of times, you would be surprised at what it can take off even on a spinning tie rod stud

Another trick is to run it back down with the impact so the stud grabs the taper in the steering knuckle again, then wing it out with the impact

probably would not have worked in your situation, just passing along a few tips
 
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Judge Mills

Judge Mills

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Impact usually works anyway/ Blip it on and off a bunch of times, you would be surprised at what it can take off even on a spinning tie rod stud

Another trick is to run it back down with the impact so the stud grabs the taper in the steering knuckle again, then wing it out with the impact

probably would not have worked in your situation, just passing along a few tips
I'll try that on the other side! Thanks

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Bain64

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And if an impact on the nut doesn't work, hold the nut with a wrench and impact the 10mm clockwise which loosens the nut. Back and forth combined with cleaning the threads in between has worked for me. Good luck with round 2!
 
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Judge Mills

Judge Mills

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The other side: used a big Milwaukee corded impact. Two braps later, it was off. Couple tabs with the hammer, easy. I've learned my lesson!98c82511bb8883a4312f000d9a7d442d.jpg

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The other side: used a big Milwaukee corded impact. Two braps later, it was off. Couple tabs with the hammer, easy. I've learned my lesson!98c82511bb8883a4312f000d9a7d442d.jpg

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Is it a LOT mightier than a decent cordless?

This is one application where corded tools are a real pain in the ass
 
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Judge Mills

Judge Mills

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Is it a LOT mightier than a decent cordless?

This is one application where corded tools are a real pain in the ass
It's pretty Skookum. My smaller cordless didn't have enough umpf to move it. It's going to be a while before I buy a cordless Milwaukee. They are awesome, but using funds for parts right now.

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It's pretty Skookum. My smaller cordless didn't have enough umpf to move it. It's going to be a while before I buy a cordless Milwaukee. They are awesome, but using funds for parts right now.

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How weak or strong was your small cordless? Enough to do lower strut bolts?
 
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Judge Mills

Judge Mills

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The lower bolt is 332 ft lbs of torque, so even the big corded one won't crack it. I have to use a breaker bar with a cheater bar to crack it...

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The lower bolt is 332 ft lbs of torque, so even the big corded one won't crack it. I have to use a breaker bar with a cheater bar to crack it...

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My 19v handheld Craftsman (the pricier/heavier-duty ot the two 1/2" Craftsman impacts Sears stocked at the time) took it right off no problem.


Sounds like your big corded one is a gimmicky Hazard Fraught Tools item that's simply big *and* corded, but not actually beefy
 
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Judge Mills

Judge Mills

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If you look at the picture, it says Milwaukee Heavy Duty....

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