USB ports next to phone charger not working

[nick22t]

2019 Ford Expedition Limited Edition
SYNC 3, Software Version: 3.4 Build 20136_PRODUCT

I tried to update using wifi but it says I’m up to date.. is this fully updated?

The two front usb ports do not work.. they do not charge a phone using brand new oem Apple lightning cable and obviously CarPlay does not come up ..

I am aware this has been discussed and I have read everything I can in regards to this issue but I still need help…

I checked all fuses in both locations. I have power to the back of the module (checked with meter and lights around connector lights up)but I’m aware that this is a different circuit than what the usb connection uses. Is there a specific fuse I should re-check that controls data?

I accessed the back of the stereo to confirm that the usb cable was properly connected to the apmi which it was. So I came to the conclusion that I must have a bad usb module. I ordered a replacement module on Amazon.. now it was an upgraded version that has a standard usb and a usb-c but it listed my part number as a replacement.

My part number on my usb module is:
hc3t-14f014-ac

The module I ordered is found here:

SYNC 3 Apple carplay USB Module, Type C + USB Interface Upgrade Module, Compatible Ford SYNC 3.4 USB hub(Small Size) https://a.co/d/8kuydio

I should also note that I tried a different module but after ordering it I realized it said it worked for the following part numbers which mine was not listed:
HC3Z-19A387-C, HC3Z-19A387-D, HC3Z-19A387-H

That part can be found here:

OEM Ford Carplay USB Hub Module Upgrade for Sync 3 Models HC3Z-19A387-H https://a.co/d/dAZBqyO

 

[2020-MAX-Limited]

2019 Ford Expedition Limited Edition
SYNC 3, Software Version: 3.4 Build 20136_PRODUCT

My 2020 SYNC 3 reports Version 3.4.23188

I never could get wifi updates to work, so prefer the USB stick method. Have had no problems updating via USB.

Of course, if your USB is inoperable, that won't help you any.

 

[nick22t]

So I want to post an update for any one else having this issues.. I replaced the cable that goes from the back of the head unit down to the usb module and it solved my problem! No need to even replace the module because my factory one is working great.

 

[sjwhiteley]

I had a problem with mine when the spouse plugged in a e-cig charging cable: both ports stopped working.

I removed it, to get a part number off it, assuming it had 'blown'. Plugged it back in, and it started working.

 

[5280tunage]

Glad you were able to do all of that. I had the exact same problem but Ford service was so rough. I don't understand, I did half the troubleshooting for them, I bought one of the USB voltmeter and showed them no voltage was getting to the ports. 4 trips to the dealer later, they replaced the cable and bam it was working.

Makes no sense. there should be better ways of troubleshooting these things. On mine, they replaced the APIM, the USB ports, and a couple other modules, before finally deciding to try the cable. It also makes no sense on the cable, it's a USB cable for goodness sake, in an environment that stays pretty dry, isn't bent, isn't pluged in and unplugged all the time, etc. I have crappy USB cables from 10 yrs ago that were heavily used and still work fine. Just junk parts if you ask me.

 

[nick22t]

Yeah I can’t imagine what could possibly hurt the usb cable. It was a last resort but I was convinced there was no chance it was going to work..

 

[amynew99]

@5280tunage and @nick22t is it literally just a regular USB cable? Just purchased the replacement module because mine has never worked since I bought my 18 Exp used in 2019. It has the pretty blue lights around the ports but nothing I've plugged into it has been recognized by the vehicle and I've used genuine Apple lightning cables. Thanks for any info you can share!

 

[nick22t]

I bought a 6’ male mini to male mini off of Amazon but I think a 3’ may have worked. I had to trim the rubber around the connector to make it fit into both the module and the back of the apim. Also I used some silicone type glue around each end to ensure it won’t work its way out. I was able to fish the wire down through the dash and up into the module area and just abandoned the factory cable.

Here’s the cable I got:

6ft CablesOnline USB 2.0 Mini-B... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019M3NM1O?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

[5280tunage]

@5280tunage and @nick22t is it literally just a regular USB cable? Just purchased the replacement module because mine has never worked since I bought my 18 Exp used in 2019. It has the pretty blue lights around the ports but nothing I've plugged into it has been recognized by the vehicle and I've used genuine Apple lightning cables. Thanks for any info you can share!

Sort of, it is but it isn't. like anything they modify just enough to make it so a regular cable won't work out of the box so to speak.

 

[chris451fmc]

I had a problem with mine when the spouse plugged in a e-cig charging cable: both ports stopped working.

I removed it, to get a part number off it, assuming it had 'blown'. Plugged it back in, and it started working.

While troubleshooting my sync 1.1 (removed and opened up )for non working problem I found on the APIM board a chip that detects overcurrent and has a dc switch (500ma max) so this is a software controlled thing.
If it detects overcurrent the CPU will switch off the port(S). 1.1 has one port populated but 2 ports on the circuit board.
It never switches on in my vehicle a 2017 exp. EL xlt. The switch chip works when I feed an enable signal. .That was right next to a 5v supply that was running fine. The Freescale processor is a ball grid array (these can lose connections on some balls due to thermal cycling. This one has the plastic case APIM so only air cooling on the cpu. Another used APIM module I got to replace it has the metal case with cpu heat sinking. APIM module has flash memory that could store a fault like that. Just got ForScan running that can look at all the codes in all the modules. The VIN must be programmed into the module. I'll use the cut off connector to hook to the scan tool and try to reprogram the right VIN and Asbuilt data. I pulled the Asbuilt data with ForScan. Already tried subbing it in and the radio quit working due to VIN mismatch. Put the 'bad one' back in and the radio started working again. This includes pulling the battery off for a long time (discharge all the capacitors). I did not see a fault code for usb overcurrent.