Weekend fun - front suspension work

[Bain64]

To say the least, the wear pattern looks a little uneven on my MIL's 2005 expedition front tires...



So I've got plans for tonight and tomorrow to change out the upper control arm, lower ball joints, tie rod ends and sway bar links for good measure. The worst part is, she lives 1 mile down a gravel road so everything is dirty and threads are rusty..



I had an hour last night, started on the drivers side and already the tie rod end nut got stuck. I've broken 2x 10mm sockets so far (one craftsman deep 3/8, one husky standard depth 1/4) and then stripped the anti-spin bolt head with an open ended wrench. The 1/4" husky 10mm breaking was my fault, but the 3/8 craftsman surprised me a bit. Today I can use air tools and if that doesn't work I'll either break out the red torch or cut the darn thing off.

 

[R W Carpenter]

LOTS AND LOTS AND LOTS AND LOTS OF PB BLASTER. SOME HEAT TO LOOSEN THINGS UP TOO MIGHT HELP.

 

[Plati]

Wow. Never seen tires like that. Hope you nail it. I think you said all 4 tires were like that? Is that from tire rotation?

 

[Bain64]

Wow. Never seen tires like that. Hope you nail it. I think you said all 4 tires were like that? Is that from tire rotation?

Just the front, and much worse on drivers side.

 

[Plati]

Just the front, and much worse on drivers side.

So, after you install the new parts .... alignment ?
Then new tires

best stock size tires i've tried are Falken Wildpeak AT3W
I like the LT version for 18/32" tread

 

[Bain64]

LOTS AND LOTS AND LOTS AND LOTS OF PB BLASTER. SOME HEAT TO LOOSEN THINGS UP TOO MIGHT HELP.

I liberally used the mopar penetrant yesterday, hoping it has softened things up over night. I should've power washed under it first, i'm fighting trying to clean off the dirt/gravel on top of the rust.

So, after you install the new parts .... alignment ?
Then new tires

best stock size tires i've tried are Falken Wildpeak AT3W
I like the LT version for 18/32" tread

Yes, tires and alignment for sure! She has some offbrand I've never heard of on now, I'll snap a picture later. I'll pass along the tire recommendation.

 

[2004XLT]

Ive had two sets of those moog sway bar links, both lasted less than 5000 miles. just a heads up. that's just normal city driving no t much off road.

 

[Bain64]

Ive had two sets of those moog sway bar links, both lasted less than 5000 miles. just a heads up. that's just normal city driving no t much off road.

Bummer... they worked out great on my old Dakota.. heading out to the garage now, got the compressor primed and air gun ready to go

 

[Bain64]

I've just about got it wrapped up. I only had to break out the torch twice. The tie rod adjusting nut on the drivers side is stuck for now, but I was running out of steam by 11pm last night. The passesnger side is buttoned up, and once I break the adjusting nut free on the drivers side I can put it all back together.

Anyone heard of the tire, Grantland Milestar ?? Any guess on who makes these generics?

 

[1955moose]

Tire sounds like on of the many Asian brands flooding the market. Be sure your turning the lock nut on tie rod the proper direction. Just check the new one for rotation direction. I've had good luck with Moog parts, but always install their premium stuff, every company makes an economy version, I'd stay clear of those. Your new parts should have grease fittings, be sure to lube them for mama in law , every 5k. Makes them last way longer.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[Adieu]

Tire sounds like on of the many Asian brands flooding the market. Be sure your turning the lock nut on tie rod the proper direction. Just check the new one for rotation direction. I've had good luck with Moog parts, but always install their premium stuff, every company makes an economy version, I'd stay clear of those. Your new parts should have grease fittings, be sure to lube them for mama in law , every 5k. Makes them last way longer.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

What can you use to lube Moog grease fittings if you don't own a grease gun?

Are there any drip or spray lubricant products that are right for this application??

 

[Bain64]

Well, it's never as easy as it should be. The driver's side steering knuckle is broken where it meets the lower ball joint. I admit to nothing, but someone may have hit it a few too many times with the sledge trying to get the knuckle to drop away from the ball joint. When I was torquing the lower nut, i felt it get loose briefly and knew something was screwed up but was hoping it just settled onto the ball joint. However, I crawled around and found the knuckle cracked all the way through. Ford said the part was no longer manufactured and couldn't even source the part, luckily the Rock has the knuckle arriving tomorrow evening.




Proof of work:





Adieu, you need a grease gun to grease the parts. If you have original parts, there will not be a grease fitting/zerk. For the original parts, you can use a grease needle to put onto the grease gun, and you puncture right through the boot and add grease to a non-greaseable part. It might extend the life of non-greaseable parts.

 

[1955moose]

Now you know why they make pickle fork ball joint/ tie rod tools. Hammers are great for hitting the back of the tool, just not the part itself! And yes you'll need to buy a low priced grease gun. A $20.00 one is fine, you'll use it again, trust me.

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[Bain64]

Now you know why they make pickle fork ball joint/ tie rod tools. Hammers are great for hitting the back of the tool, just not the part itself!

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Thanks moose, i should've noted that's what I eventually used. Once I bought a pickle fork, it took less than 2 minutes to get both knuckles to drop from the ball joint.

 

[Bain64]

2 other things of note on the MIL's expy.. The rear wiper transmission/passthrough had seized, leaving the wiper midway on the window and draining the battery as the rear wiper kept trying to get back to level. After a new battery last year they figured out to remove the fuse. I was able to remove, clean, and replace the wiper transmission and replace the fuse and now the rear wiper works too! However, the rear washer fluid pump was dumping under the hood instead of the rear glass, luckily I found a disconnected hose between the battery and washer fluid reservoir that just needed to be reconnected.

I also found someone had plugged the front axle vent tube with a screw, guessing they thought it was a loose vacuum hose and couldn't find a home for it. I guess she's lucky that the front axle sealant/gasket wasn't blown out.



Keeping the ol' girls on the road a while longer

 

[Adieu]

Well, it's never as easy as it should be. The driver's side steering knuckle is broken where it meets the lower ball joint. I admit to nothing, but someone may have hit it a few too many times with the sledge trying to get the knuckle to drop away from the ball joint. When I was torquing the lower nut, i felt it get loose briefly and knew something was screwed up but was hoping it just settled onto the ball joint. However, I crawled around and found the knuckle cracked all the way through. Ford said the part was no longer manufactured and couldn't even source the part, luckily the Rock has the knuckle arriving tomorrow evening.




Proof of work:





Adieu, you need a grease gun to grease the parts. If you have original parts, there will not be a grease fitting/zerk. For the original parts, you can use a grease needle to put onto the grease gun, and you puncture right through the boot and add grease to a non-greaseable part. It might extend the life of non-greaseable parts.

I have Moog greasable sway links and upper control arms

Surely there's some way to use a spray-based lubricant or a syringe??

 

[Bain64]

Well, maybe you could unscrew the grease zerk and use a syringe filled with grease, but really instead just buy or borrow a grease gun man.

 

[lvcjt702]

I have Moog greasable sway links and upper control arms

Surely there's some way to use a spray-based lubricant or a syringe??

Time or money.

You'll have to sacrifice one or the other. You've already paid to have a serviceable part so spend a little more to maintain it.

We use these in my shop for lubeing castors. They work fine for occasional use.

https://m.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/lubrication/pistol-grip-grease-gun-61575.html

I picked up a Lucas kit with 3 tubes of grease at Home Depot a couple years ago for $25 but can't find it on their site.


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[Adieu]

Well, maybe you could unscrew the grease zerk and use a syringe filled with grease, but really instead just buy or borrow a grease gun man.

Which grease are you supposed to use, anyway?

The lack of directions for these things is kinda stunning...

 

[Bain64]

Which grease are you supposed to use, anyway?

The lack of directions for these things is kinda stunning...

Chassis grease / general purpose grease should be fine. Go here to learn more than you ever wanted to know about grease https://www.etrailer.com/faq-grease.aspx