Found this bracket wedge up against the firewall, directly behind the passenger side valve cover. I have been searching online to figure it out, it looks like there was a ground bolt on it, and my expy is having major electrical issues. Any help would be appreciated. I am new, so let me know if i did anything wrong. Thanks
What Bracket Is This!!!!!
- Thread starter tdena16
- Start date
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Bedrck47
Full Access Members
What year is the Expy? And what major electrical issues are you having.
Can't say if you did anything wrong as you haven't said what all you have done.
How many miles on the Expy?
Can't say if you did anything wrong as you haven't said what all you have done.
How many miles on the Expy?
2003 5.4l v8 4wd with 160000, but the engine was rebuilt around 6 months ago by a mechanic, we had a falling out and parted ways, so it is up to me to figure this out.
Long story short, the ECM is throwing up code after code with no results after fixing stated problems. Talked to a Ford Technician who said to check grounds before replacing more parts, so that is what I was attempting to do when I found this bracket "hangin out" behind the valve cover, and I can't figure out where it came from, no part numbers on it
The expy is cutting our really bad, throwing up the over heating code when its cold, the radio will turn on and of randomly, the lights dim randomly, it will be cutting out and then all of the sudden gain full power and take off. So, yeah, thats about where I am at. Thanks
Long story short, the ECM is throwing up code after code with no results after fixing stated problems. Talked to a Ford Technician who said to check grounds before replacing more parts, so that is what I was attempting to do when I found this bracket "hangin out" behind the valve cover, and I can't figure out where it came from, no part numbers on it
The expy is cutting our really bad, throwing up the over heating code when its cold, the radio will turn on and of randomly, the lights dim randomly, it will be cutting out and then all of the sudden gain full power and take off. So, yeah, thats about where I am at. Thanks
Bedrck47
Full Access Members
The bad thing about making a long story short is that it tells me nothing
Code after code tells me nothing BUT knowing the codes can point us in the right direction.
The more information you can provide will also help others to help you.
Only you can take the guess work out of the problem.
Do you have any manual to work from?
What is your Mech and Elect ability?
Can you read and understand wiring diagrams?
Do you have any test meter? Volt/Ohm.
There are some very good people on this forum that can give some very good advice and suggestions. But you need to provide the information in more detail so you can get the help that is available.
Take one problem at a time and fix it Don't just throw parts into it Do some good troubleshooting and be willing to take the time needed and you may be surprised at the results.
Code after code tells me nothing BUT knowing the codes can point us in the right direction.
The more information you can provide will also help others to help you.
Only you can take the guess work out of the problem.
Do you have any manual to work from?
What is your Mech and Elect ability?
Can you read and understand wiring diagrams?
Do you have any test meter? Volt/Ohm.
There are some very good people on this forum that can give some very good advice and suggestions. But you need to provide the information in more detail so you can get the help that is available.
Take one problem at a time and fix it Don't just throw parts into it Do some good troubleshooting and be willing to take the time needed and you may be surprised at the results.
I understand that much more info is needed to troubleshoot my bigger problem that I am having, I started this thread to figure out this bracket and I will be starting a new thread to discuss, in detail, the other issues I am having and would greatly appreciate your help there, I appreciate all of your feedback and look forward to your continual help. Thanks
Bedrck47
Full Access Members
When you start a new thread and if it on electrical issues Start in in the elect form.
Try to include as much information as possible. Codes etc. things you have done and any work that you know of that has been done.
Am sending you a PM private message
Try to include as much information as possible. Codes etc. things you have done and any work that you know of that has been done.
Am sending you a PM private message
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stamp11127
Full Access Members
Well this took the total time of @3 minutes to look through the diagrams. The bracket is for securing an electrical harness at the back of the motor. Since the "mechanic" left that loose it makes me wonder what else he let slide. You need to inspect & secure the harness asap - it may be the one that others have had issues with once it contacts the exhaust system. Raises all sorts of hell with the electric.
Look at section B/C - 4 for the bracket.
I need a good head scratching challenge, what are the electrical problems you are having and what electrical abilities do you have so that I know how to word the responses?
Look at section B/C - 4 for the bracket.
I need a good head scratching challenge, what are the electrical problems you are having and what electrical abilities do you have so that I know how to word the responses?
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Thank you so much for the diagram, I sent the following message to bedrck47 and tried to include as much info as possible. He messaged me and stated that you were the other person that I should talk to.
2003 Ford Expedition 5.4 V8 4wd Eddie Bauer 160,000
Background
Expy started misfiring in cyclinder 4
Pulled spark plug found oil on threads from inside of cylinder ( no this wasn’t a spill into the spark plug hole)
Took to mechanic, who said the engine was bad and needed new
Mechanic rebuilt the engine (approximately 6 months ago)
Upon return of vehicle, I noticed a slight shake will idling, also the a/c wasn’t working, but was before we took it to the mechanic, the a/c condenser was punctured, mechanic denied responsibility. Mechanic also broke the plastic shroud that goes over the radiator and ac condenser, shoved a bolt into the fuel rail check valve, did not hook up the PCV valve, said the EGR valve was no good and that the CE light was on because of that, I checked code and read P0401 (EGR Insuffecitent Flow)
I replaced the EGR Valve cleared code and code came back, but vehicle ran very good, no shake at all, took expy to Yosemite with no problems. Also had the condenser repaired and freon added to a/c, which worked great.
Upon return, the shake returned and noticed intermittent power loss and power gain, but only the P0401 code, the a/c clutch would also intermittently come on and cut out, Freon levels were good, when I bypassed the low pressure switch, a/c clutch would work properly. Replaced the switch, added Freon and a/c worked great for awhile, but when the vehicle would lose power the a/c would quit, gain power, a/c would work.
Still the only code was P0401
At this point the expy would actually turn off in the middle of driving, would turn back on and would only run if I floored it, didn’t make it home, had to be towed
I replaced the Idle air valve, no change, checked all vacuum lines and checked the air intake to make sure it wasn’t clogged, it wasn’t.
Doing some trouble shooting, I found that where the Starter Relay mounts in the fuse box it was burned out. I replaced the entire fuse box and the expy ran well for 5 minutes then began to cut out and turn off.
That night I noticed the bolt on the alternator was glowing red, I replaced the alternator, no change.
Will the car was running I happened to move the wire that is connected to the Air Charge Temperature Sensor (12A697), which is mounted on the air intake, and the car died. I unwrapped the wire to see if it was damaged, but just in unwrapping it, the car started to run fine again. I followed the wire and noticed that it was ran behind one of the belts and was actually rubbing againt the belt causing the wires to be exposed, I repaired the wires and re ran the wiring away from the belt.
Expedition ran well for awhile, took another long trip with no problems, then the cutting out started again. I completely disconnected the COP connectors and the fuel injector connectors and cleaned them and it seemed to help for a little while, then the cutting out/shaking/power loss/radio turning on and off/ lights diming came back in full force. The car doesn’t die, but it runs so rough that it’s un drivable now.
EGR code is still there and I also got P0118 (High Temperature CHT) and also a lean condition bank 1. The ford guy told me that the CHT sensor rarely goes out and that he would start checking grounds. This is where I am at.
Added Info
when i did the cleaning of the COP connectors and fuel injector connectors, the passenger side "exhaust sensor" came unhooked and in reconnecting that when I found the bracket. Upon reconnecting the "exhaust sensor" i realized that just tugging on the wire should not have disconnected it, which leads me to beleive that it was not secured in the first place
2003 Ford Expedition 5.4 V8 4wd Eddie Bauer 160,000
Background
Expy started misfiring in cyclinder 4
Pulled spark plug found oil on threads from inside of cylinder ( no this wasn’t a spill into the spark plug hole)
Took to mechanic, who said the engine was bad and needed new
Mechanic rebuilt the engine (approximately 6 months ago)
Upon return of vehicle, I noticed a slight shake will idling, also the a/c wasn’t working, but was before we took it to the mechanic, the a/c condenser was punctured, mechanic denied responsibility. Mechanic also broke the plastic shroud that goes over the radiator and ac condenser, shoved a bolt into the fuel rail check valve, did not hook up the PCV valve, said the EGR valve was no good and that the CE light was on because of that, I checked code and read P0401 (EGR Insuffecitent Flow)
I replaced the EGR Valve cleared code and code came back, but vehicle ran very good, no shake at all, took expy to Yosemite with no problems. Also had the condenser repaired and freon added to a/c, which worked great.
Upon return, the shake returned and noticed intermittent power loss and power gain, but only the P0401 code, the a/c clutch would also intermittently come on and cut out, Freon levels were good, when I bypassed the low pressure switch, a/c clutch would work properly. Replaced the switch, added Freon and a/c worked great for awhile, but when the vehicle would lose power the a/c would quit, gain power, a/c would work.
Still the only code was P0401
At this point the expy would actually turn off in the middle of driving, would turn back on and would only run if I floored it, didn’t make it home, had to be towed
I replaced the Idle air valve, no change, checked all vacuum lines and checked the air intake to make sure it wasn’t clogged, it wasn’t.
Doing some trouble shooting, I found that where the Starter Relay mounts in the fuse box it was burned out. I replaced the entire fuse box and the expy ran well for 5 minutes then began to cut out and turn off.
That night I noticed the bolt on the alternator was glowing red, I replaced the alternator, no change.
Will the car was running I happened to move the wire that is connected to the Air Charge Temperature Sensor (12A697), which is mounted on the air intake, and the car died. I unwrapped the wire to see if it was damaged, but just in unwrapping it, the car started to run fine again. I followed the wire and noticed that it was ran behind one of the belts and was actually rubbing againt the belt causing the wires to be exposed, I repaired the wires and re ran the wiring away from the belt.
Expedition ran well for awhile, took another long trip with no problems, then the cutting out started again. I completely disconnected the COP connectors and the fuel injector connectors and cleaned them and it seemed to help for a little while, then the cutting out/shaking/power loss/radio turning on and off/ lights diming came back in full force. The car doesn’t die, but it runs so rough that it’s un drivable now.
EGR code is still there and I also got P0118 (High Temperature CHT) and also a lean condition bank 1. The ford guy told me that the CHT sensor rarely goes out and that he would start checking grounds. This is where I am at.
Added Info
when i did the cleaning of the COP connectors and fuel injector connectors, the passenger side "exhaust sensor" came unhooked and in reconnecting that when I found the bracket. Upon reconnecting the "exhaust sensor" i realized that just tugging on the wire should not have disconnected it, which leads me to beleive that it was not secured in the first place
stamp11127
Full Access Members
Damn, other than that how is it running?
What is your mechanic background and what tools do you have access too? For the electrical issues you will need a digital multimeter and know the basics on how to use it.
Which alternator bolt was turning red and is it still doing that? If it is, disconnect the battery asap. We will tackle the other issues one by one.
A/C: since you are still having to add refrigerant to the system it is still leaking - plain and simple.
Is the check engine light on? If so we need all of the codes.
What is your mechanic background and what tools do you have access too? For the electrical issues you will need a digital multimeter and know the basics on how to use it.
Which alternator bolt was turning red and is it still doing that? If it is, disconnect the battery asap. We will tackle the other issues one by one.
A/C: since you are still having to add refrigerant to the system it is still leaking - plain and simple.
Is the check engine light on? If so we need all of the codes.
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Just went out and checked the codes
Current Fault
P0204- Powertrain
Injector Circuit- Cylinder 4
Pending Faults
P0113 - Powertrain
Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P0354 - Powertrain
Ignition Coil "D" Primary/Secondary Circuit
P0171 - Powertrain
System too lean (Bank 1)
Yesterday I disconnected cylinder 4 to check for spark because i didn't feel a difference in engine performance when i disconnected the COP connector, so that may be why the P0204 and P0354 are there.
I just started it up and its running really rough.
I posted a picture of the alternator bolt that was glowing, it hasn't since I replaced the alternator.
Also, I noticed that there is freon coming from the inside of the low pressure switch
I have the basic tools for troubleshooting, multimeter without amp capability because i broke of the connector yesterday.
Current Fault
P0204- Powertrain
Injector Circuit- Cylinder 4
Pending Faults
P0113 - Powertrain
Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P0354 - Powertrain
Ignition Coil "D" Primary/Secondary Circuit
P0171 - Powertrain
System too lean (Bank 1)
Yesterday I disconnected cylinder 4 to check for spark because i didn't feel a difference in engine performance when i disconnected the COP connector, so that may be why the P0204 and P0354 are there.
I just started it up and its running really rough.
I posted a picture of the alternator bolt that was glowing, it hasn't since I replaced the alternator.
Also, I noticed that there is freon coming from the inside of the low pressure switch
I have the basic tools for troubleshooting, multimeter without amp capability because i broke of the connector yesterday.
Attachments
stamp11127
Full Access Members
For the a/c - the low pressure switch is leaking - rather obvious - and will require replacement.
For the p0113 here is a link:
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0113
For p0204 the injector connector will have 12v with ignition in run I believe all the time - the pcm cycles the ground on/off when needed. Test for the 12v.
For p0354:
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0354
For the p0113 here is a link:
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0113
For p0204 the injector connector will have 12v with ignition in run I believe all the time - the pcm cycles the ground on/off when needed. Test for the 12v.
For p0354:
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0354
Okay, went to do the electrical checks that were suggested and the battery was dead. I will charge it up when my other vehicle is back, but with the battery reading at 9.68 volts i still did some testing.
I checked the COP connector for voltage with key on and it read 9.46 volts (on a 9.68 volt battery)
The other test I did was on the IAT (Code P0113) With the key on it read 4.7 volts
I also tested for resistance and it read 6.5 which I attached as a picture. I am not sure if this is too much or not, I thought over 5 was too high. This is the wire that when i moved it, the car died awhile back.
"Checking using a DVOM for a 5 volt reference. If it is there, then unplug the connector at the PCM and check for continuity on the IAT signal circuit between the PCM connector and the IAT connector"
Forgive me, but I do not have the manual to tell me which plug on the pcm controls the IAT and which pin it is or how to really do this test?
I will get on the P0354 testing as soon as I can start it, do any of the readings that I did do tell me anything?
Thanks
I checked the COP connector for voltage with key on and it read 9.46 volts (on a 9.68 volt battery)
The other test I did was on the IAT (Code P0113) With the key on it read 4.7 volts
I also tested for resistance and it read 6.5 which I attached as a picture. I am not sure if this is too much or not, I thought over 5 was too high. This is the wire that when i moved it, the car died awhile back.
"Checking using a DVOM for a 5 volt reference. If it is there, then unplug the connector at the PCM and check for continuity on the IAT signal circuit between the PCM connector and the IAT connector"
Forgive me, but I do not have the manual to tell me which plug on the pcm controls the IAT and which pin it is or how to really do this test?
I will get on the P0354 testing as soon as I can start it, do any of the readings that I did do tell me anything?
Thanks
Attachments
Last edited:
stamp11127
Full Access Members
Always perform electrical tests when the power supply is within specs....readings will be accurate then. As far as resistance measurements I'll have get back with you.
New Development
Charged the battery tried to start the car, wouldn't start wouldnt even try to turn over.
opened up the fuse box and replaced the starter relay which didn't look bad, but has been a problem in the past, as soon as i pulled the previous relay out, the fuse box buzzed until i put the new one in
the car started up but as i was touching the other larger relays, the car began to cut out and almost die as I would push on them, then it did die and won't start................................................................
and my multi meter doesn't have hrtz
Charged the battery tried to start the car, wouldn't start wouldnt even try to turn over.
opened up the fuse box and replaced the starter relay which didn't look bad, but has been a problem in the past, as soon as i pulled the previous relay out, the fuse box buzzed until i put the new one in
the car started up but as i was touching the other larger relays, the car began to cut out and almost die as I would push on them, then it did die and won't start................................................................
and my multi meter doesn't have hrtz
stamp11127
Full Access Members
Hertz is for measuring frequency...and there isn't a need to measure it here.
Need to know what other relays you were touching.
What is the current battery voltage and voltage at the cop connector?
Have you removed the central junction box in the past or disturbed the grounds in the kick panels?
Need to know what other relays you were touching.
What is the current battery voltage and voltage at the cop connector?
Have you removed the central junction box in the past or disturbed the grounds in the kick panels?
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Voltage on the battery was 12.9. and the COP while running was 14.
I basically just palmed the fuse box and put a slight amount of pressure and the engine started cutting out then died
I actually replaced the entire fuse box because the starter relay port was "fried", well actually a friend of mine who is a mechanic did.
i mentioned the Hertz because the link you gave me had a test that was done using hertz
I basically just palmed the fuse box and put a slight amount of pressure and the engine started cutting out then died
I actually replaced the entire fuse box because the starter relay port was "fried", well actually a friend of mine who is a mechanic did.
i mentioned the Hertz because the link you gave me had a test that was done using hertz
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Okay, so need to clear up something
I stated that previous to replacing the entire fuse box with a new one, the "starter relay" kept melting, I was wrong. The relay that was melting and the socket that also melted on the previous fuse box was actually relay 203 which is the PCM relay.
With that being said, the expedition will not start now, I have good battery voltage and the only thing that I did that brought about the no stary condition was to literally tap the fuse box.....
This is driving me crazy
I stated that previous to replacing the entire fuse box with a new one, the "starter relay" kept melting, I was wrong. The relay that was melting and the socket that also melted on the previous fuse box was actually relay 203 which is the PCM relay.
With that being said, the expedition will not start now, I have good battery voltage and the only thing that I did that brought about the no stary condition was to literally tap the fuse box.....
This is driving me crazy
Skauber
Full Access Members
It's unusual that the PCM relay melts along with the connector, did you do any further troubleshooting to find the cause for this? Or did you just slap a new fuse box in and called it a day? Sounds to me that there is an excessive load on that circuit
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