Hamfisted
Full Access Members
Yes, Gearwrench really does come out with some good tool ideas. Their magnetic swiveling spark plug socket is the best I've ever used. You'll appreciate the Flex Head tools the more you use them too.
What to look for when buying a gen 2 expy
- Thread starter JUST4FUN
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Southern cracker
Member
I've had all kinds of issues with my '03 three most of his little stuff... Except changing the flex plate .. that was a major issue. PATS issues a couple of times. Fuel pump went out... 350 bucks please..(just for the fuel pump)
Elvisinflorida
Active Member
Test highway speeds up through 65 mph listening for differential noise. This is a known problem. My EB differential emits a low volume wine at 58mph, tapering off in volume to zero above and below 58mph. It's a little bothersome to hear but I'm putting up with it. If it doesn't get any worse I'll just deal with it as a minor annoyance and continue to avoid cruising at 58mph.
I bought my 04 EB after only driving it a few blocks on the neighborhood streets. I discovered the differential wine taking it from Coral Gables to Fort Lauderdale on I-95.
I bought my 04 EB after only driving it a few blocks on the neighborhood streets. I discovered the differential wine taking it from Coral Gables to Fort Lauderdale on I-95.
expyaddict
Member
When you fill up are parked nose down a bit? My 03 did the same. I forgot the explanation from the shop, but we didn't fix anything. I just back it in so it is parked nose up a bit.
expyaddict
Member
On my 03 getting the 2nd row center seat folded down is difficult. I have to get in there and kneel on the seat to tug on the cable hard enough to get to get it to release.
Again on my 03. On one of the second row side seats: After folding down the seat back, I can push it down level with the floor without difficulty. But it takes a lot of effort to pull the release to get it back up.
Again on my 03. On one of the second row side seats: After folding down the seat back, I can push it down level with the floor without difficulty. But it takes a lot of effort to pull the release to get it back up.
Retiredusps
Full Access Members
On a truck from the north east or where salt is used check the radiator mount, well known to be rotted out. Wifes expy garage kept still rotted out. Can do it yourself if you have time and a welder. not real easy but doable
shellerae
New Member
Great thread!
I just bought a 2006 72k miles. Used to be a Fire Vehicle so it's as basic as it can be while having lots of weird excess. Well maintained. Whisper quiet. Radio, CD player & Cassette Deck no Aux plug in or Bluetooth ... Might just say it all. Key had no chip in it. It's rather weird to know I can go make copies for $5 vs $75
Have put about 300 miles on it since purchase and it stalled while driving. Thankfully I was in a safe place. And all the security stuff went out - auto locks, clicker, rear hatch opens randomly - lots of fun.
This forum has helped me narrow down some potential Why's. I'm leaning towards ground wires that have jiggled lose, and fuse box/relays that need replacing.
I haven't dived into mechanical since about 1995 and not had a Ford since my parent's collection. Dusting off the knowledge. Hoping some might still have value. I think this 9ne is simple enough, aka not much computer on it, that it's in my basic range of aptitude.
I just bought a 2006 72k miles. Used to be a Fire Vehicle so it's as basic as it can be while having lots of weird excess. Well maintained. Whisper quiet. Radio, CD player & Cassette Deck no Aux plug in or Bluetooth ... Might just say it all. Key had no chip in it. It's rather weird to know I can go make copies for $5 vs $75
Have put about 300 miles on it since purchase and it stalled while driving. Thankfully I was in a safe place. And all the security stuff went out - auto locks, clicker, rear hatch opens randomly - lots of fun.
This forum has helped me narrow down some potential Why's. I'm leaning towards ground wires that have jiggled lose, and fuse box/relays that need replacing.
I haven't dived into mechanical since about 1995 and not had a Ford since my parent's collection. Dusting off the knowledge. Hoping some might still have value. I think this 9ne is simple enough, aka not much computer on it, that it's in my basic range of aptitude.
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SiliconMagician
New Member
This is not covered by many people, but listen for a rattling on all the 2005-2014 model year expedition as well as the 2004-2011 f150 and some f250's have the 5.4L 3V that has oil pressure and timing issues with the cam phasors for VCT, if it sounds like the f150 in this video. ford 5.4 3v triton cam phasor ticking yt video. The 4.6 3V and the 5.4 and 4.6 2V motors arent troublesome aside from some issues with the spark plugs blowing out of the holes (if you arent a pro yourself, get a pro to change them for you, you'll thank me later) Now 98-04 navigtors have the 32V Non-VCT heads from the factory, but later ones have the 3v turd engine.
I have an 06 Eddie Bauer the only thing I've done to it is rebuilt the transmission and put all the timing phasers and gears on there 226,000 still gets good gas mileage and a go across the country fast
SafariGoneWrong
Full Access Members
Passenger/right side exhaust manifold. Mine is an '06 XLT. While troubleshooting passenger bank noise, saw telltale signs of leakage from #4 (aft cyl., pass side) exhaust manifold. I replaced it, turned out it was warped per my straight edge, with the #4 port being about 0.025" pulling away from cylinder head.
Speaking of noise, mine has a tap/dink noise while warming up. At times it goes away as fast as flipping a switch, then it comes back and grows louder slowly. Quiet when warm and no noise during or immediately after start. Only starts dinking about 20-25 sec after start. Been doing this for the last 2500 mi. Phasers, tensioners, guides, oil pump, chains, roller followers and lash adusters all replaced 22K miles ago (at 100K miles).
Speaking of noise, mine has a tap/dink noise while warming up. At times it goes away as fast as flipping a switch, then it comes back and grows louder slowly. Quiet when warm and no noise during or immediately after start. Only starts dinking about 20-25 sec after start. Been doing this for the last 2500 mi. Phasers, tensioners, guides, oil pump, chains, roller followers and lash adusters all replaced 22K miles ago (at 100K miles).
Elvisinflorida
Active Member
The gear boxes that control the AC air flow and temperature notoriously fail. That is the only repair that I have had since buying the 04 Eddie Bauer in 2018 @ 78K mi (now 83K) and this just recently. If you hear a sharp clicking sound when adjusting AC controls just remember this is what it is. There are two gear boxes boxes for the rear AC, passenger side rear. And two in the dashboard. There are lots of YouTube videos regarding this repair.
I live in Florida, and I'm not interested in heat. The rear heat control box started clicking so I manually set it on cold and unplugged the 12V to shut off the motor driving the clicking gears. Each pair of boxes consists of one that controls temperature in the other that directs air flow.
I live in Florida, and I'm not interested in heat. The rear heat control box started clicking so I manually set it on cold and unplugged the 12V to shut off the motor driving the clicking gears. Each pair of boxes consists of one that controls temperature in the other that directs air flow.
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Randy-IA
Well-Known Member
Better late than never I guess... seriously late really.
I gave up on the idea of changing the plugs myself and had a shop do them. Serious sticker shock! Just shy of $500. I hung around the shop and watched and saw the problems he had. It took him nearly five hours. Single piece plugs as stated. I had doubts that the replaced plugs had ever ever been replaced... but they had been at some point. I was surprised the engine still ran, there was nothing left of them.
Today, May 29, 2023 it's been sitting on jack stands for three months now waiting on me to drop the fuel tank and install the new fuel pump. Before I even wanted to start that project I wanted to wash as much of the winter rock and lime (I live two miles off a paved road) that was frozen on and then dried in place as possible. So I recently got a good pressure washer and yesterday I rolled around in the mud and gravel drive washing the underside off. I got the top of the tank as good as I could and up into the filler neck area. Now more waiting.
Too many irons in the fire. About every piece of equipment I own has something broken on it now and I have to prioritize the fixes. The underside of the expi is clean at least and lifted it higher too. Now I just need to figure out the steps to remove the tank. It's mighty rusty under there.
Several good videos on the YouTube for dropping the tank. No matter how you cut it, it doesn’t look fun. I noticed fuel on the ground the first time I topped-off the truck, so that’s on my checklist to do. Good luck.
Bolt snapper
Full Access Members
I'm several years removed from owning my '04, but the major issues with it that caused me to want to sell are:
- Rusted rockers (outers were gone, it was moving towards the inners)
- Coolant leak in the intake manifold crossover. K Seal would stop it for awhile, but then it recurred, then K Seal worked again, then I sold it. But it was dozens of turkey basters full of coolant to suck it out of the valley.
- Absolutely rotten radiator supports. Fortunately, I never had to replace the radiator, but my fear was if that ever became necessary, there'd be nothing there to hold it. You could literally put your finger through them.
Other than that, I loved it.
- Rusted rockers (outers were gone, it was moving towards the inners)
- Coolant leak in the intake manifold crossover. K Seal would stop it for awhile, but then it recurred, then K Seal worked again, then I sold it. But it was dozens of turkey basters full of coolant to suck it out of the valley.
- Absolutely rotten radiator supports. Fortunately, I never had to replace the radiator, but my fear was if that ever became necessary, there'd be nothing there to hold it. You could literally put your finger through them.
Other than that, I loved it.
Sylvan_Librarian
Member
I've had my 2003 XLT FX4 for about 3000 miles. Very solid truck. ~120,000 mi.
Here are my notable major and minor mechanical issues:
- RF window regulator slow to rise
- Faulty purge valve in evap system (small evap leak)
- LF door and rear hatch faulty door ajar switches
- Serpentine belt cracks
- Upper and lower ball joints cracked, no play
- Minor power steering pump noise, no leaks
- Minor LF hub bearing noise
- Minor seepage at transfer case halves
Recent fixes:
- New Power Stop Z36 pads and rotors
- New K&N washable filter
- New rear A/C door blend actuator
- Lubegard Instant Shudder Fixx (for a misbehaving torque converter)
- New sparkplugs
All-in-all, if you're looking for a 2nd gen, they are still remarkably comfortable and solid rides. I was very surprised coming from a 3rd gen that the older model is better in a lot of mechanical ways. There is nothing in the above list that is prohibitively expensive to fix, and the truck is completely drivable as is. Good luck and happy hunting
Here are my notable major and minor mechanical issues:
- RF window regulator slow to rise
- Faulty purge valve in evap system (small evap leak)
- LF door and rear hatch faulty door ajar switches
- Serpentine belt cracks
- Upper and lower ball joints cracked, no play
- Minor power steering pump noise, no leaks
- Minor LF hub bearing noise
- Minor seepage at transfer case halves
Recent fixes:
- New Power Stop Z36 pads and rotors
- New K&N washable filter
- New rear A/C door blend actuator
- Lubegard Instant Shudder Fixx (for a misbehaving torque converter)
- New sparkplugs
All-in-all, if you're looking for a 2nd gen, they are still remarkably comfortable and solid rides. I was very surprised coming from a 3rd gen that the older model is better in a lot of mechanical ways. There is nothing in the above list that is prohibitively expensive to fix, and the truck is completely drivable as is. Good luck and happy hunting
Ford Frank
Member
For reference:
I just sold a 2003 Eddie Bauer 4x4 with 189,000 miles in very good running condition and good overall condition for $4,300.
I just sold a 2003 Eddie Bauer 4x4 with 189,000 miles in very good running condition and good overall condition for $4,300.
Randy-IA
Well-Known Member
Update on fuel tank/fuel pump R&R. It was a PITA, but it got done. Fired right up and read the level correctly because I reset the float before installing it. The factory had it sitting on the floor of the tank, maybe that's the way it's supposed to be (?) but I'd rather have a larger reserve than that. I set it about a 1/4" above the floor of the tank.
But it was all for naught, a few months later the transmission just up and stopped moving forwards. Goes backwards as normal as it ever has. And wouldn't it figure, it died the same day I filled the tank and topped it off.
So, I mentioned elsewhere here in the forums that I parked it behind the barn and bought a different vehicle. Not certain it's worth investing in a different transmission or the labor involved swapping it. It's gone over 250K miles. It runs great and uses very little oil between changes. I'd like for it to run again but it is a bucket-O-rust regardless. It's still the most comfortable vehicle I've owned in a long time.
But it was all for naught, a few months later the transmission just up and stopped moving forwards. Goes backwards as normal as it ever has. And wouldn't it figure, it died the same day I filled the tank and topped it off.
So, I mentioned elsewhere here in the forums that I parked it behind the barn and bought a different vehicle. Not certain it's worth investing in a different transmission or the labor involved swapping it. It's gone over 250K miles. It runs great and uses very little oil between changes. I'd like for it to run again but it is a bucket-O-rust regardless. It's still the most comfortable vehicle I've owned in a long time.
Of all the things mentioned here the #1 issue you MUST look for is: RUST
I'm not talking about surface rust or the little bits of flakiness here and there and especially not the rocker panels which we all know will probably be either completely rotted away or just a paint shell. I'm talking about the rust that compromises safety and can lead to thousands in repairs in order to pass a safety inspection. Older model Expys are NOTORIOUS for rust issues. Before even taking a test drive....
Check:
- Radiator mounts up front. These are notorious for rusting away and taking the front body mount with it.
- Body mounts - ALL of them - especially the center ones below the "B" pillar and the rear-most ones, up behind the the rear fender wells.
- Inner body rail and all crossbody support members. These can rust away completely leaving a crunchy, unsupportive mess that you can push a pencil through.
- FRAME! Check the entire frame and crossmembers with a hammer and a screwdriver. Lightly rap all along the entire frame, especially the rear. If you get a dull thud or a dent, use the screwdriver and see if it pokes through.
Not sure or not comfortable with this then get a pre-purchase inspection and make sure they check what I mentioned above.
Run away from any Expy with structural rust issues unless you are good with a torch, have a friend that is, or you have deep pockets. The radiator support mount repair is upwards of $2.5K because the entire front of the the truck has to come off, the center front body panel has to be cut out, ground down, and a new support panel welded in. Body mounts aren't too expensive as long as you don't have to replace too many. Inners and body supports, depends on parts and how bad the rust is. Frame.. fuggedaboutit! Most shops nowadays won't touch a frame repair. DIY if you can hide it from an inspector, otherwise a frame-off restoration, IF you can find a donor frame, would be at least $5K for a vehicle that likely books below that.
I picked up an Expy that I only took a quick glance up underneath, dirty, but looked OK. Boy was I wrong. Later, AFTER buying it... I discovered it had rust through on all kinds of places on the frame. The rear was so bad you could put your finger through it in several spots on both sides. and the rear cross member that ties to both rear sides was rusted through so bad that I was surprised the rear held on. I wouldn't tow anything heavier than a canoe trailer. I was afraid that if I got hit from the rear that the entire rear would just drop out. It would never pass a safety inspection and certainly wasn't able to be resold for anything but parts. Worst part... it had a current VALID safety inspection... so either the inspector didn't even look at the frame because rust that bad would have shown up years ago OR the previous owner knew a "guy" that passed it. Either way, don't trust the ol' "well it has a valid inspection" routine.
Good luck and good hunting
I'm not talking about surface rust or the little bits of flakiness here and there and especially not the rocker panels which we all know will probably be either completely rotted away or just a paint shell. I'm talking about the rust that compromises safety and can lead to thousands in repairs in order to pass a safety inspection. Older model Expys are NOTORIOUS for rust issues. Before even taking a test drive....
Check:
- Radiator mounts up front. These are notorious for rusting away and taking the front body mount with it.
- Body mounts - ALL of them - especially the center ones below the "B" pillar and the rear-most ones, up behind the the rear fender wells.
- Inner body rail and all crossbody support members. These can rust away completely leaving a crunchy, unsupportive mess that you can push a pencil through.
- FRAME! Check the entire frame and crossmembers with a hammer and a screwdriver. Lightly rap all along the entire frame, especially the rear. If you get a dull thud or a dent, use the screwdriver and see if it pokes through.
Not sure or not comfortable with this then get a pre-purchase inspection and make sure they check what I mentioned above.
Run away from any Expy with structural rust issues unless you are good with a torch, have a friend that is, or you have deep pockets. The radiator support mount repair is upwards of $2.5K because the entire front of the the truck has to come off, the center front body panel has to be cut out, ground down, and a new support panel welded in. Body mounts aren't too expensive as long as you don't have to replace too many. Inners and body supports, depends on parts and how bad the rust is. Frame.. fuggedaboutit! Most shops nowadays won't touch a frame repair. DIY if you can hide it from an inspector, otherwise a frame-off restoration, IF you can find a donor frame, would be at least $5K for a vehicle that likely books below that.
I picked up an Expy that I only took a quick glance up underneath, dirty, but looked OK. Boy was I wrong. Later, AFTER buying it... I discovered it had rust through on all kinds of places on the frame. The rear was so bad you could put your finger through it in several spots on both sides. and the rear cross member that ties to both rear sides was rusted through so bad that I was surprised the rear held on. I wouldn't tow anything heavier than a canoe trailer. I was afraid that if I got hit from the rear that the entire rear would just drop out. It would never pass a safety inspection and certainly wasn't able to be resold for anything but parts. Worst part... it had a current VALID safety inspection... so either the inspector didn't even look at the frame because rust that bad would have shown up years ago OR the previous owner knew a "guy" that passed it. Either way, don't trust the ol' "well it has a valid inspection" routine.
Good luck and good hunting
Randy-IA
Well-Known Member
I don't know whether it's a good thing or a bad that this state doesn't have safety inspections! My personal point of view is I'm happy it does not.
I guess they could be looked at as a necessary evil.
It's hard to describe accurately my personal views on safety. But to sum it up I believe if an individual has zero common sense then Darwin is having a field day. Unfortunately, Darwin can't just focus on that one individual and might take out a few others due to the idjits lack of common sense. Nevertheless, I'm a firm believer that we can't save everyone from themselves, nor should we (sometimes) try .
I guess they could be looked at as a necessary evil.
It's hard to describe accurately my personal views on safety. But to sum it up I believe if an individual has zero common sense then Darwin is having a field day. Unfortunately, Darwin can't just focus on that one individual and might take out a few others due to the idjits lack of common sense. Nevertheless, I'm a firm believer that we can't save everyone from themselves, nor should we (sometimes) try .
if the buyer chooses to purchase a rotted out POS that might drop the rear end out at the first hard speed bump it hits thats between them and their state laws, or lack thereof.
I'm just pointing out the fact that if you are planning the purchase of an older model
Expy that there is a possible defect you should look out for. Spending thousands of dollars only to discover that it could cost you thousands more to get it roadworthy would suck. It's easy to hide a hogged out frame if the exterior looks great and the interior is top notch. That showroom shine would wear off real fast once you find out you can't register or tag the car you just paid a huge chunk of money for.
Caveat emptor my friend.
I'm just pointing out the fact that if you are planning the purchase of an older model
Expy that there is a possible defect you should look out for. Spending thousands of dollars only to discover that it could cost you thousands more to get it roadworthy would suck. It's easy to hide a hogged out frame if the exterior looks great and the interior is top notch. That showroom shine would wear off real fast once you find out you can't register or tag the car you just paid a huge chunk of money for.
Caveat emptor my friend.
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