Liftedford89
Active Member
2008 and up don't have the 2 piece spark plug. I did a spark plug change in my 2010 and had no problem. It was a 1 piece motorcraft plug.
What to look for when buying a gen3 expy
- Thread starter JUST4FUN
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someguynamedmatt
Member
Purchased our 2008 Expy (build date late 2007) in Sept/Oct2013 from a Subaru dealer for 13k. Standard length XLT w/ 4X4, leather, aftermarket nav and rear seat entertainment with 93k. Currently has 156k.
Things that the dealer has fixed / replaced under extended warranty:
Fuel pump. Went bad about 3 months after buying it.
A single ignition coil pack and spark plug.
Things I have taken care of:
SCT tuner by Mike at 5 star tuning
4X4 actuator motor. (This was probably the EASIEST actuator/fix on this vehicle I've ever had to do. I think it took me 10 minutes) Fixed the 4X4 wrench icon.
All plugs. My 2008 had the 2 piece design. Went with the updated plugs about a year ago.
All coil packs. Dealer replaced 1 as seen above, so I wanted them all done. Should've done it when I did the plugs, but didn't have the funds to do everything at once. Replaced with ACCEL supercoils.
Battery about a year ago.
Power to headlights will dip below 12v on occasion with engine running. Alternator and battery are constant 14.4, so there is something going on. Fixed this using cheap relays to pull power straight from battery.
Leaky hose above pass side head. Fixed with parts from autozone in about 10 minutes. Common failure.
Wheels and tires, of course.
Various exterior modifications, stereo work, added several USB outlets, with plans to add more.
What I have noticed since purchasing it 3 years ago:
Lack of power / surging was fixed by plug change and coil upgrade.
With the tuner, it is very sensitive to fuel. Engine/tune prefers Exxon, Valero or Shell. Wal-Mart/Murphy's gas, grocery store gas and some others make it ping and knock when under heavy
acceleration, and there seems to be *some* power loss according to ButtDyno Mk.1
I carry the tuner with me, so if there is any loss of programming, which has never happened, I can reboot the system completely.
Turning off traction control seems to release more engine power.
It eats tires fairly quickly. Even wear, but standard grade tires seem to last 30-40k miles instead of 50-60k.
How and what has been maintained:
I do all my own oil changes with FoMoCo semi synth oil and filters since it's actually cheaper than aftermarket every 4.5-6k. I can actually hear when it's time to change the oil. The cam/lifter noise becomes more staccato, to use a musical term. Noticeable is not the right term, since it is always there. That's when I know it's time to change the oil. And, yes, I do know what the failed cam phaser sounds like.
Intake air filter.
Trans fluid was done at 120k.
Issues remaining with the truck:
Minor paint bubbling on rear lift gate.
Clear coat peeling from BOTH front and rear bumpers.
The dreaded power seat issue of missing teeth.
Water in doors not draining properly after heavy rain. (There is a fix, but not for the faint of heart)
Want/need to replace shocks with a Rancho 9000's for the lift.
Minor trim finish bubbling/peeling in places.
My recommendations when looking for one:
Check and SMELL the engine oil. If it is overly sweet or has a tangy (think sweet and sour chicken from your local chinese place) or burned smell, stay away.
Stay away from the power boards if at all possible. Go with nerf bars. Zero maintenance required.
When driving one, turn off traction control and floor it. Any, and I mean ANY hesitation will manifest itself before and after the 1-2 shift. Floor it to get a 3-2 downshift for more hesitation indicators. If you have it make them swap all 8 plugs AND coils.
Try to get a late '08 and above to avoid the 2 piece plug.
Trans fluid/filter is around $129 to change, get it done if it hasn't been done already and you are over 50k.
Try to avoid the rear air ride suspension. Those are problematic and expensive to fix. Mostly on high end trim levels and Navigator's. Can be replaced with standard struts, but will set a code.
Cam phaser noise = avoid, unless they are fixing it before you drive away.
Things that the dealer has fixed / replaced under extended warranty:
Fuel pump. Went bad about 3 months after buying it.
A single ignition coil pack and spark plug.
Things I have taken care of:
SCT tuner by Mike at 5 star tuning
4X4 actuator motor. (This was probably the EASIEST actuator/fix on this vehicle I've ever had to do. I think it took me 10 minutes) Fixed the 4X4 wrench icon.
All plugs. My 2008 had the 2 piece design. Went with the updated plugs about a year ago.
All coil packs. Dealer replaced 1 as seen above, so I wanted them all done. Should've done it when I did the plugs, but didn't have the funds to do everything at once. Replaced with ACCEL supercoils.
Battery about a year ago.
Power to headlights will dip below 12v on occasion with engine running. Alternator and battery are constant 14.4, so there is something going on. Fixed this using cheap relays to pull power straight from battery.
Leaky hose above pass side head. Fixed with parts from autozone in about 10 minutes. Common failure.
Wheels and tires, of course.
Various exterior modifications, stereo work, added several USB outlets, with plans to add more.
What I have noticed since purchasing it 3 years ago:
Lack of power / surging was fixed by plug change and coil upgrade.
With the tuner, it is very sensitive to fuel. Engine/tune prefers Exxon, Valero or Shell. Wal-Mart/Murphy's gas, grocery store gas and some others make it ping and knock when under heavy
acceleration, and there seems to be *some* power loss according to ButtDyno Mk.1
I carry the tuner with me, so if there is any loss of programming, which has never happened, I can reboot the system completely.
Turning off traction control seems to release more engine power.
It eats tires fairly quickly. Even wear, but standard grade tires seem to last 30-40k miles instead of 50-60k.
How and what has been maintained:
I do all my own oil changes with FoMoCo semi synth oil and filters since it's actually cheaper than aftermarket every 4.5-6k. I can actually hear when it's time to change the oil. The cam/lifter noise becomes more staccato, to use a musical term. Noticeable is not the right term, since it is always there. That's when I know it's time to change the oil. And, yes, I do know what the failed cam phaser sounds like.
Intake air filter.
Trans fluid was done at 120k.
Issues remaining with the truck:
Minor paint bubbling on rear lift gate.
Clear coat peeling from BOTH front and rear bumpers.
The dreaded power seat issue of missing teeth.
Water in doors not draining properly after heavy rain. (There is a fix, but not for the faint of heart)
Want/need to replace shocks with a Rancho 9000's for the lift.
Minor trim finish bubbling/peeling in places.
My recommendations when looking for one:
Check and SMELL the engine oil. If it is overly sweet or has a tangy (think sweet and sour chicken from your local chinese place) or burned smell, stay away.
Stay away from the power boards if at all possible. Go with nerf bars. Zero maintenance required.
When driving one, turn off traction control and floor it. Any, and I mean ANY hesitation will manifest itself before and after the 1-2 shift. Floor it to get a 3-2 downshift for more hesitation indicators. If you have it make them swap all 8 plugs AND coils.
Try to get a late '08 and above to avoid the 2 piece plug.
Trans fluid/filter is around $129 to change, get it done if it hasn't been done already and you are over 50k.
Try to avoid the rear air ride suspension. Those are problematic and expensive to fix. Mostly on high end trim levels and Navigator's. Can be replaced with standard struts, but will set a code.
Cam phaser noise = avoid, unless they are fixing it before you drive away.
Last edited:
2009 Expedition EL XLT, tow package, 4x4, 130,000 miles. Just picked it up.
both front window motors had to be addressed by selling dealer
Had a lot of engine codes that were supposedly addressed - antitheft and battery related power stuff.
O2 Sensor
Does have some peeling, bubbled paint on rear lift gate.
Have only driven it once (90 miles).
both front window motors had to be addressed by selling dealer
Had a lot of engine codes that were supposedly addressed - antitheft and battery related power stuff.
O2 Sensor
Does have some peeling, bubbled paint on rear lift gate.
Have only driven it once (90 miles).
Check that all windows go up and down.
Check the air filter that it is reasonably clean.
Have your used car inspector ascertain the last time the oil was changed. 16,000 miles on mine! Make sure they check for the common issues discussed here - coil packs, etc.
Check the Yelp, BBB, Google+ and car site reviews on the dealer. Avoid those with low reviews or reports that the dealer sells cars with obvious problems and won't fix them
Stay away from dealers that only let you test drive it on their lot "for insurance" or whatever reasons.
Do NOT buy the Expedition As-Is. Even if they offer a warranty from a crappy 3rd party, it may override the "As-Is" requirements in small claims court. Courts frown on implied warranties that are not honored.
Get everything critical in writing from dealer.
Check all fluids for potential problems.
Avoid 2007-8 and 2012 (Consumer Reports) for reasons that may become obvious if you ignore.
Check the air filter that it is reasonably clean.
Have your used car inspector ascertain the last time the oil was changed. 16,000 miles on mine! Make sure they check for the common issues discussed here - coil packs, etc.
Check the Yelp, BBB, Google+ and car site reviews on the dealer. Avoid those with low reviews or reports that the dealer sells cars with obvious problems and won't fix them
Stay away from dealers that only let you test drive it on their lot "for insurance" or whatever reasons.
Do NOT buy the Expedition As-Is. Even if they offer a warranty from a crappy 3rd party, it may override the "As-Is" requirements in small claims court. Courts frown on implied warranties that are not honored.
Get everything critical in writing from dealer.
Check all fluids for potential problems.
Avoid 2007-8 and 2012 (Consumer Reports) for reasons that may become obvious if you ignore.
Walt460
Member
Really, 2012 Expeditions have issues that 2011 do not have?
Snag
Full Access Members
Walt,
not sure how rcanfiel came up with that deduction. He just bought a real bummer of a rig a couple weeks ago. You can see his post scammed or clueless
Welcome to the site, a lot of experienced folks
Gary
not sure how rcanfiel came up with that deduction. He just bought a real bummer of a rig a couple weeks ago. You can see his post scammed or clueless
Welcome to the site, a lot of experienced folks
Gary
Walt460
Member
Consumer Reports list the 2012 Expedition as a vehicle to avoid, noting worst-in-class reliability (large SUV). Without subscribing to CR, I can not find any details but should be based on owner's reports for the need to do repairs plus factory recalls that require a dealer visit.
Snag
Full Access Members
Any of these rigs from 05 on can be a challenge, especially the 3 valve engine models. They have had a history of engine and transmission problems. There are a number of people on site with low mileage with engines needing replaced, one guy has 99k and engine shot. And there are others with 250k+- with no problems.
All the Expeditions now have the v6 turbo models, some I worry with upcoming problems. It appears Ford is throwing all their eggs in one basket. I hope the turbo is not a dud
All the Expeditions now have the v6 turbo models, some I worry with upcoming problems. It appears Ford is throwing all their eggs in one basket. I hope the turbo is not a dud
Walt460
Member
Snag,
The 3.5L Eco has been in the F150 since 2011, and some issues were addressed in a 2013 revision and even more for 2015. So the 2015-up Expeditions "should" have a solid powertrain with the 3.5L Eco and 6R80.
The 3.5L Eco has been in the F150 since 2011, and some issues were addressed in a 2013 revision and even more for 2015. So the 2015-up Expeditions "should" have a solid powertrain with the 3.5L Eco and 6R80.
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