JDMitchell
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Dayaaaaam, Thermo is a friggin' genius!
But seriously, that is some good to know info.
But seriously, that is some good to know info.
Which optima?
- Thread starter panda24619
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OP
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panda24619
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agreed! thanks for that! you are the expert on everything! okay so dual batterys huh? could i do dual rear batterys? cause i want the rear battery cause of idiots around here that like to break into my truck, happened twice when my mom owned it, but also cause of the weight. i can put them inside the truck or even underneath. there are kits for them. would i need 2 kits? or just an isolator like tonydiv has? or should i just get the kit he has and be done? cause with everything i have hooked up i think i would need at least 2 batterys. or a better battery.
OP
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panda24619
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every friggin time too. everything he says its like the words from a car god!
Thermo
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Hey guys, I have been working on vehicles longer than most of you have probably been alive (helped build a 23 T-bucket back in 1984). Then you start adding in the fact that I have spent my whole life around mechanical and electrical stuff (I work in a power plant), you learn things from all sorts of people. Now, mix in a healthy trait of wanting to try anything and you get a dangerous combination.
Panda, as for your setup, sure you can mount the battery in the back, but I will caution you that you should in that case use either a sealed battery or a gel/coil style battery. I say this because when you charge a battery, it can develop dangerous gases (hydrogen, sulfuric gas, etc) and if you have it in the cab of the truck, it may not end good, especially if you are deeply discharging the battery and using the truck to recharge it (high charge rates only make the gassing problem that much worse).
A common trick for our trucks is to go with say two 850 CCA batteries and mount them sideways and then you can mount both of them in the factory battery location. All you have to do is move a single vacuum canister out of the way (gotta keep it installed else the truck runs like hell, but it does fit in a nice little pocket right below where it gets unbolted from). I normally use a piece of say diamond plate and bend it at a 90 degree to be a bracket for the batteries so they don't slide into the engine and that also makes for a nice place to mount a battery isolator block.
I am not sure what type of isolator that tonydiv has, but you want one that looks like a car audio amp, not a relay. I say this because it makes recharging the batteries "idiot proof". I am not saying that you are, butt...... LMAO. The battery isolator is essentially a fancy diode complex that also controls the amount of charging going to each battery. But, when the truck is off, the isolator maintains the two batteries completely isolated from each other. So, you can't accidentally discharge both batteries by accidentally leaving the switch turned on for a relay or leaving the key in the RUN position to keep the radio going. It is also easier on the alternator as it won't be drug down by the completely drained battery, which can lead to early alternator failure (overheating of the rectifier diodes or melting of the field windings due to too high of current).
Granted, if I get my F-150, look out. It is going to make Nukie look like a play toy. He he he he. I have lots of plans for that. The trickest one will be using the factory key fob to pop the doors after removing the door handles. The doors will pop independently. Oh the joys of understanding modern day electronics and knowing how to modify them. Then add in a custom air ride suspension and now we are talking. I'm also looking at doing a retro 70's look to the truck. I will see if I can post up a pic that I played with for what I have in mind.
Panda, as for your setup, sure you can mount the battery in the back, but I will caution you that you should in that case use either a sealed battery or a gel/coil style battery. I say this because when you charge a battery, it can develop dangerous gases (hydrogen, sulfuric gas, etc) and if you have it in the cab of the truck, it may not end good, especially if you are deeply discharging the battery and using the truck to recharge it (high charge rates only make the gassing problem that much worse).
A common trick for our trucks is to go with say two 850 CCA batteries and mount them sideways and then you can mount both of them in the factory battery location. All you have to do is move a single vacuum canister out of the way (gotta keep it installed else the truck runs like hell, but it does fit in a nice little pocket right below where it gets unbolted from). I normally use a piece of say diamond plate and bend it at a 90 degree to be a bracket for the batteries so they don't slide into the engine and that also makes for a nice place to mount a battery isolator block.
I am not sure what type of isolator that tonydiv has, but you want one that looks like a car audio amp, not a relay. I say this because it makes recharging the batteries "idiot proof". I am not saying that you are, butt...... LMAO. The battery isolator is essentially a fancy diode complex that also controls the amount of charging going to each battery. But, when the truck is off, the isolator maintains the two batteries completely isolated from each other. So, you can't accidentally discharge both batteries by accidentally leaving the switch turned on for a relay or leaving the key in the RUN position to keep the radio going. It is also easier on the alternator as it won't be drug down by the completely drained battery, which can lead to early alternator failure (overheating of the rectifier diodes or melting of the field windings due to too high of current).
Granted, if I get my F-150, look out. It is going to make Nukie look like a play toy. He he he he. I have lots of plans for that. The trickest one will be using the factory key fob to pop the doors after removing the door handles. The doors will pop independently. Oh the joys of understanding modern day electronics and knowing how to modify them. Then add in a custom air ride suspension and now we are talking. I'm also looking at doing a retro 70's look to the truck. I will see if I can post up a pic that I played with for what I have in mind.
Thermo
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I know it is an F-150, but I don't really need an Expy any more. So, this is what I have envisioned. I like the late 70's look I came up with. Funny thing is, should be an easy mod to do.
So, if you know someone looking for a 97 Ford Expy with a 4" lift and 37's, let me know. I'm sure most of you have seen the build over the years. The first $4500 and it is theirs.
But then, thinking about it, this mod could also be done on the new 2011 Expy's. Who knows. What can I say, I like something that no one else has.
So, if you know someone looking for a 97 Ford Expy with a 4" lift and 37's, let me know. I'm sure most of you have seen the build over the years. The first $4500 and it is theirs.
But then, thinking about it, this mod could also be done on the new 2011 Expy's. Who knows. What can I say, I like something that no one else has.
I know it is an F-150, but I don't really need an Expy any more. So, this is what I have envisioned. I like the late 70's look I came up with. Funny thing is, should be an easy mod to do.
So, if you know someone looking for a 97 Ford Expy with a 4" lift and 37's, let me know. I'm sure most of you have seen the build over the years. The first $4500 and it is theirs.
But then, thinking about it, this mod could also be done on the new 2011 Expy's. Who knows. What can I say, I like something that no one else has.
Where do you live? im about to sell mine to get yours screw mine lol
GAINMOB
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where you located?
OP
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panda24619
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well i dont mean in the back in the cab, even though that WAS an option. i mean underneath. like it was hidden. im gonna cut my exhaust and run it so it exits before the rear tire or just dump it. so i will have that open cavity there. seems perfect for a battery.
Thermo
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Ross, you would need to come up I-64 and get on I-95. When you get on the north side of Richmond, you will want to get off at VA207 (towards AP Hill). You are going to drive down that till you go over the Potomac River bridge. Then you will drive another 5 miles or so and make a right on to MD-234. Drive that till it ends at MD5 and keep following it south for another 10 miles or so. I'm off to the left by about a mile or so. Probably a 2-2.5 hour drive for you. Look up California MD and I am on the southern edge of that (between California and Great Mills).
walnuts4x4
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ross you should buy it... a great DD and a mud truck... that way you could keep your bling clean and rust free...lol... or maybe the wife would like something on 37s...lol
drokmofo
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Optima batteries are now made in Mexico. Since that happened the quality and lifespan have diminished immensely.
