Window Woes

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GaryH2

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I think I know the answer to this but I'm just checking:

I'm approaching 200k on my 07 now and the driver side window is very slow, squeaking and stopping at times when going up. It is now even going down slowly and squeaking while doing that too.

Ya think I am looking at replacing the window regulator or is there a chance just the motor will take care of it?
 

gixer2000

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I just did mine a month ago for the same issue. I used my original motor and just ordered the regulator. The window works flawless now.

You could try and grease the regulator slides and see how it goes but it pretty common for the cable to fray and cause this issue so it may not help

Fyi rockauto was the cheapest place I found for a motorcraft regulator
 

Plati

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Mine are slow too. 03 XLT. I have had regulators, motors, switches replaced over the years. To be honest I just have kind of given up on the window and try not to use it. Makes it harder at Mickey D's and paying tolls. Maybe this summer I'll open up that door panel and try lubricating?
 

Sccritterkiller

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Both pass and driver door did the same thing with under 75k...both regulators both replaced...it a good design...lasts just longer than the factory warranty...
 

1955moose

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Well depends if you like doing a job twice. You might be able to spray, and lube inside there. The motors usually work or don't. The tracks, and regulator are a different story. Panels aren't too tough to remove. The regulator starts making a kinda crunchy sound when their going South. Mines doing that lately. I'll probably swap out drivers side soon. You've got to realize how many times we open and close them.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk
 

John Christopher

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Sweet Project Cars has a video on youtube for this problem. Check it out. It may work.
 

star-art

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Spray the window run channels with a silicone dry spray lubricant. This will help them go up and down more easily. Unfortunately, the regulator assembly isn't practical to lubricate while it's in the vehicle. Thus, over time,the cable and other parts of the mechanism can corrode and friction can build up. Eventually, the cable will strain and break.

https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Silicone-Lubricant-Aerosol-14-Ounce/dp/B00D3ZKVAS

https://www.amazon.com/08897-Silicone-Lubricant-Dry-Type/dp/B000PJED72
 
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Plati

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Spray the window run channels with a silicone dry spray lubricant. ...
I like that idea, don't have to take anything apart to get top 1/2... I think I'll try silicone on drivers side and powdered graphite on the passenger window. When the weather is better. I never even try the windows in winter!
 

star-art

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Ford specifically says to use dry silicone spray lubricant on the window channels. In my experience, the powdered graphite is for things like door lock cylinders (i.e. where you insert the key). It stains pretty badly.
 

1955moose

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Don't vary from recommended lubricant. You want to fix problem, not make a mess and possibly a new one. Stay the course and use recommended lubricant, you might want to change that drivers side regulator while apart. No sense in going in a second time, if motors OK!

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk
 

chuck s

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The driver's window in my '07 stuck down last winter (!) so fixing it moved up the priority list pretty fast.

I'd done all the silicone spray, etc., fixes and ended up putting a new regulator inside the door. This was after 10 years of service and my driver's window goes up and down dozens of times a day. No complaints as this window probably had thousands of cycles.

Replaced the rear wiper thru-glass fitting at the same time. It got thru the same 10 years just dribbling CLP on it occasionally.

- Chuck
 

mbed

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I just did mine a month ago for the same issue. I used my original motor and just ordered the regulator. The window works flawless now.

You could try and grease the regulator slides and see how it goes but it pretty common for the cable to fray and cause this issue so it may not help

Fyi rockauto was the cheapest place I found for a motorcraft regulator


I have done both front doors at different times in my 08 EL. Used the Dorman ones and found them online for about $75-90 or so...don't remember exactly. There are a few videos which help and the job went exactly as described. They work nicely. The motorcraft ones seem to have the cabling get tangled and disengaged. I believe the Dorman ones are slightly improved in design but cannot be certain...HTH!
 
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GaryH2

GaryH2

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Replaced the driver's side regulator and motor today. It's never worked better! Smooth, quick and quiet now!

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star-art

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If it has Auto Up/Down make sure to do the calibration procedure. And, still get that lubricant we discussed above and use it regularly to extend the life of the new parts. :)
 

JExpedition07

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If it has Auto Up/Down make sure to do the calibration procedure. And, still get that lubricant we discussed above and use it regularly to extend the life of the new parts. :)

I’ve never heard of anybody getting the recalibrate procedure done correctly even at a dealer, you pretty much give up the auto up part.
 

star-art

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Both my front regulators were replaced and the Auto Up/Down on the driver's side works perfectly. The work was done at a local shop, not the dealer.
 

inmanlanier

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My turn with my 2012 on the driver's side. Two questions - do most folks prefer the Motorcraft part? My nose wrinkles because it's made in China. Next question - does anyone have a link to the procedure for the auto-up and down programming? Thanks
 

07navi

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My turn with my 2012 on the driver's side. Two questions - do most folks prefer the Motorcraft part? My nose wrinkles because it's made in China. Next question - does anyone have a link to the procedure for the auto-up and down programming? Thanks
I did the passenger side, $45 including shipping for the regulator and it has been working great for 8 months. It was going up an coming back down3" so I programmed it by getting it to go all the way up, hold switch 5 seconds, and then all the way down, hold switch 5 seconds............been great for 7-8 months.
 
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