Would love some folks thoughts on this, regarding oil changes on this engine.

[GlennSullivan]

This is why it is so important to change oil regularly. Like I said I always use full synthetic. blend is fine but full synth is just that much better, for not much more. And always use a Motorcraft filter.

They have , anti-drain back valves to help prevent dry starts, (Anti-drain back valves that are made of silicone provide greater cold/heat resistance )(down to -75 and up to +450 degrees F), Pressure relief valves help maintain supply of oil to the engine under extreme cold conditions or if the filter gets clogged, (Location of relief valve in the majority of Ford application filters prevents settled debris from entering and potentially damaging the engine).​

I use Mobil 1 in all my vehicles. I purchase in 5qt jugs or 12 quart bag in box at Walmart. Previously 5 quart jugs were around $22-$23, now they seem to be phasing them out for the 12 quart bag-in-box which are a SUPER PITA to use. I buy the bag-in-box and immediately transfer the oil to 5qt jugs. In any case, even with current prices it still works out to around $5 per quart, add in a filter and an oil change is $35 if you do it yourself.

 

[LazSlate]

Any synth that is the correct specification for the engine. Lots of people on this thread are running Mobile 1 which is what I use. But you CANNOT use the standard Mobile 1 as it is NOT WSS-M2C946-B1 rated. The only Mobile 1 is the EP (extended performance) which meets Fords requirements for the eco boost WSS-M2C946-B1.

This thread there are so many people with opinions on non synth, a blend or full synth and all makes of oil.
Per Ford spec in the USA you can run blended oil and in Canada they want you to use a non blended full synth and both must meet the WSS-M2C946-B1 spec.

They do not recommend non synth and I do not even know if there is non synth in the WSS-M2C946-B1 spec.

I think a lot of backyard mechanics choosing oil they think it best on not looking at the OIL SPEC number.
The only thing that matters is the OIL SPEC number and viscosity. Everything else is personal preference.

A lot of engine issues could be related to people just picking what oil they like and have used for 80 years and then yelling a Ford because a Turbo bearing locked up.

 

[AJ82]

But you CANNOT use the standard Mobile 1 as it is NOT WSS-M2C946-B1 rated. The only Mobile 1 is the EP (extended performance) which meets Fords requirements for the eco boost WSS-M2C946-B1.

The manual calls out WSS-M2C961-A1 for MY22. It is the most updated spec it seems upon research.

 

[GlennSullivan]

The manual calls out WSS-M2C961-A1 for MY22. It is the most updated spec it seems upon research.

For 2017 EcoBoost V6 the manual calls for WSS-M2C946-A specification. Does this mean that newer years specification oil is better (exceeds) in general for all TT V6 or should each year vehicle receive oil that meets or exceeds that year specification?

 

[AJ82]

For 2017 EcoBoost V6 the manual calls for WSS-M2C946-A specification. Does this mean that newer years specification oil is better (exceeds) in general for all TT V6 or should each year vehicle receive oil that meets or exceeds that year specification?

I am not an oil expert by any means but my understanding is the new spec supercedes the old one so the oil is equivalent or better. Kind of like the API ratings on the oil. You can use a "letter" equivalent or newer but not older if that makes sense. Perhaps someone on here has more insight.

 

[blkZ28spt]

Me talking: All turbocharged or direct inject engines get 5k mile oil changes with the latest spec full synthetic. So, API SP / GF-6 5w30 in this case. I buy 5 quart jugs of Castrol Edge. It's like $25-$30 for 5 quarts. Buy several, have leftover for next time.

The manual will call for an API ___ and a certain weight. The 3.5's currently call for API SP and 5x30

 

[blkZ28spt]

For 2017 EcoBoost V6 the manual calls for WSS-M2C946-A specification. Does this mean that newer years specification oil is better (exceeds) in general for all TT V6 or should each year vehicle receive oil that meets or exceeds that year specification?

Yes, new exceeds old, you can use the newer.

 

[sjwhiteley]

... But you CANNOT use the standard Mobile 1 as it is NOT WSS-M2C946-B1 rated. The only Mobile 1 is the EP (extended performance) which meets Fords requirements for the eco boost WSS-M2C946-B1.
...

Looks like the Standard Mobil1 meets that spec, not just the extended performance. Indeed, it looks like all the Mobil1 (full synthetic) oils meet that spec, as well as the 946-A and 961-A1.

 

[ROBERT BONNER]

Makuloco is a trustworthy guy who sees a lot of Ford hardware. His videos have saved me a lot of time and effort on repairs. And, I've said most of what he did on the above video in other posts on this site. The agressive boost strategy employed by these engines means lots of blowby which is oil contamination with volatiles and particulates. The only way to mitigate that contamination is more frequent oil and filter changes. I've also pointed out that as a retired Ford Engineer, all of the maintenance intervals are driven by marketing forces to compete with GM and Stellantis for LONGER intervals, rather than optimization for balance of maintenance variable cost vs. vehicle replacement/repair cost.

Just saying.

 

[MattG]

I've used all different oils on my past and current N/A, turbo and Supercharged motors.

I've come to the conclusion that I prefer Pennzoil Ultra Platinum as an off the shelf product.

Speaking of, I've let our SPP get up to 8k and should get to changing it soon.

 

[BMW2FORD]

I’ve been going to the dealer for an oil change since I’m under the gold certified warranty. I usually leave that oil in after the dealer changes it at max 2500 miles since it’s semi synthetic. I then change to a full synthetic SN or higher API rated oil like Penziol Platnium or Castrol Edge and run that for 4-5000 then back to the dealer. In the winter, if I do a lot of short trips or tow at anytime I’ll change it a little earlier. I’d rather change the oil a little early and happy to get under the truck as well to be sure all is OK than be stuck on the side of the highway with my kids and pets in the car. Diffs and transfer case fluid are also really important. Maintenance manual says 100k on transfer case and 150k on diffs but that’s nuts. More like 40-50k on transfer case (it’s so easy to do) and 60k max on diffs. I’ve used Ford fluids for them which is very good and the transfer case is Ford specific Mercon UL due to the clutch inside the unit. Coolant blew my mind. Only about a gallon and a half came out which is so little for this type set up. I’d love to go with a Mishimoto rad just for the extra size. The stock radiator is big but has no coolant volume for a 400hp vehicle. My vehicle had the orange coolant and I changed the it twice to get it all out and now using the yellow. The yellow is supposed to be better and backwards compatible per Ford.

 

[SublimeHiPpOs]

Any synth that is the correct specification for the engine. Lots of people on this thread are running Mobile 1 which is what I use. But you CANNOT use the standard Mobile 1 as it is NOT WSS-M2C946-B1 rated. The only Mobile 1 is the EP (extended performance) which meets Fords requirements for the eco boost WSS-M2C946-B1.

This thread there are so many people with opinions on non synth, a blend or full synth and all makes of oil.
Per Ford spec in the USA you can run blended oil and in Canada they want you to use a non blended full synth and both must meet the WSS-M2C946-B1 spec.

They do not recommend non synth and I do not even know if there is non synth in the WSS-M2C946-B1 spec.

I think a lot of backyard mechanics choosing oil they think it best on not looking at the OIL SPEC number.
The only thing that matters is the OIL SPEC number and viscosity. Everything else is personal preference.

A lot of engine issues could be related to people just picking what oil they like and have used for 80 years and then yelling a Ford because a Turbo bearing locked up.

FYI, I snagged this Mobil 1 Advanced from Costco and it appears to meet the B1 spec.

 

[amtc]

I use a motor craft filter and motor craft 5w30 synthetic blend. I change them on a 5k interval. If I’m not mistaken that is what Ford recommends.