What oil/filter do you use?

[1955moose]

I've been reading more and more of you guys running diesel oil, with amazing longevity. You can't argue with success. All the oils these days are so much better than what was available in the 1940's through 70's. if they could only build motors and trannys, that didn't break, or strip out.


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[USMCBuckWild]

I've been reading more and more of you guys running diesel oil, with amazing longevity. You can't argue with success. All the oils these days are so much better than what was available in the 1940's through 70's. if they could only build motors and trannys, that didn't break, or strip out.


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I concur. I ran the diesel oul in a built turbo engine I beat the living bejesus out of daily. It saw 22.5psi and 7k rpm daily and still got 7,500-10,000 miles between services. Fluids have come a very long way.

 

[eluther3]

Out of curiosity, why have you fought the urge to go full synthetic?

I have heard horror stories about cars that suffered oil leaks after switching from conventional to synthetic. Word is that the lighter synthetic oil works its way through the seals on older engines that had not previously used it. Given the amount of miles on my engine, I don't want that hassle

 

[1955moose]

I think it is true. Switching to full synthetic, does expose oil leaks that were minimal, or non existent before. I guess it's like pressurizing a coolant system with a pump up tester like my Stant. It's going to expose leaks that were only minor before. You want to fix small oil leaks before they turn into big ones. I guess it all depends on your finances, or your ability or drive to fix your SUV.


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[USMCBuckWild]

I have heard horror stories about cars that suffered oil leaks after switching from conventional to synthetic. Word is that the lighter synthetic oil works its way through the seals on older engines that had not previously used it. Given the amount of miles on my engine, I don't want that hassle

There is truth to this. Synthetic oil,at the molecular level, is smaller than conventional dino oil. The synthetic oils smaller molecular structure not only allows it to better combat shear and breakdown and retain more consistant pressures, it also allows it through smaller/tighter areas. These smaller particles means the "cushion" of oil that the bearings ride on is actually 'thicker' (more oil particles inside the bearing space) than Conventional dino oil. I did notice an increase in wet spots on my Subaru block (205k miles) but no outright leaks. For me, the tradeoff for better internal protection vs minor external oil seepage was an easy one to choose.

The synthetics also have better additives in them that can help fight the leaks of dried out seals. They got a pretty bad reputation for destroying older engines years ago. Modern science has brought fluids an incredibly long way.

 

[ExplorerTom]

When I bought my Expedition at 174,000 miles, I started running "full synthetic" (I put that in "" because very few oils that claim they are full synthetic are actually truly full synthetic due to some court ruling on the labeling awhile ago). I have no idea what had been run in it prior. The #4 plug well was full of oil though when I changed the spark plugs right after I bought it, so I know it was leaking prior to me owning it.

No noticeable leaking since I changed the valve cover gaskets.

 

[1955moose]

Any oil that can keep your SUV running longer, and smoother, is worth the annoyance of an oil leak. That's why they still sell those sheet metal drip pans at your parts store!


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[GaryH2]

Mobil 1 EP 5W 20 with Mobil 1 filter when I do it or Motorcraft semi-syn 5/20 with Motorcraft 820S filter when I'm lazy and let the dealer do it. 181k so far with 5000 mile changes and everything running good.

I've had the oil tested by Blackstone and all indications are that the M1 or Motorcraft does well up to at least 5000 miles. (I say up to 5000 miles because I haven't had any test much beyond 5k - it may be good for longer). Based on the lab tests, it looks like I could go 7500 miles between changes.

 

[USMCBuckWild]

When I swapped over to synthetic in my Subaru, the car was at 120k miles and it was a little process. Swapped in the synthetic, drove 500 miles and changed the oil and filter. It was BLACK. Ran another 1,000 miles, changed the oil, it was BLACK again. Ran another 1,000 miles and changed, changed the oil and it was mildly dark. Ran 3,000 miles and changed it and the oil literally looked the same as when it went in. Sent sample to Blackstone. They advised 7,500 miles. Ran 7,500 miles and changed oil/pulled sample. The additives were almost the same as a virgin sample, recommended going to 10,000 miles.

Oil always came out looking almost the same as when it was poured into the motor from then on.

Now, I did the transition in this manner because I did not know the health and status/maintenance history of the engine.

Could i have just done 3k interval? Absolutely. My goal was to get the oil clear which means the internals were clear of any gunk and deposits, then take a used oil sample to verify the health of the internals.

Does the transition have to be done this way? No. 3-5k intervals are fine.

 

[1955moose]

I've been running Mobil 1 5/w30 for the past 3 oil changes, about 12,000 miles. I didn't notice my oil turning black, or any darkness. I guess both me and the past owner, kept oil clean. I've read that full synthetic like Mobil 1 will stay stable up to 15,000 miles. I personally would not run any oil, conventional or synthetic, beyond 5,000 or so. Regular conventional oil starts to slowly break down after 3,000 miles, that's why in the past they recommended 3k oil changes. Semi synthetics are good out to 7,500 or so. Even if an oil is still protecting, it's the dirt, and contaminants that wear away at your engine. Oil and filter changes when you do yourself is usually under $50.00. Like Pennsoils ad used to say, it's cheaper to change your oil. Get out there and get a little dirty!


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