What oil/filter do you use?

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08T1

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Buckwild you are bang on. The process IMHO is perfect. I have done that exact same process on my Expy.

I changed it one morning and drove near 500 miles. Stop go and shopping. About 100 miles in on start up I saw blue smoke on start up. My wife gave me flack but oh well...

When I got home I changed the oil. It was black. Then we took a long road trip. 6 hrs and about 3 days of vacation and 6 hrs backs little over 1000 miles total.

I felt confident that the oil was getting the engine cleaned.

I changed the oil one more time. I am currently running about 5k miles now on that change.

Engine is very happy. So am I. On my next change I will send a sample to black stone.

Yes the blue smoke on startup cleared on the first oil change. The typical 5.4 rattle on start up has gone away a lot.

I have done a similar process to my tranny.

CJ
 
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USMCBuckWild

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Buckwild you are bang on. The process IMHO is perfect. I have done that exact same process on my Expy.

I changed it one morning and drove near 500 miles. Stop go and shopping. About 100 miles in on start up I saw blue smoke on start up. My wife gave me flack but oh well...

When I got home I changed the oil. It was black. Then we took a long road trip. 6 hrs and about 3 days of vacation and 6 hrs backs little over 1000 miles total.

I felt confident that the oil was getting the engine cleaned.

I changed the oil one more time. I am currently running about 5k miles now on that change.

Engine is very happy. So am I. On my next change I will send a sample to black stone.

Yes the blue smoke on startup cleared on the first oil change. The typical 5.4 rattle on start up has gone away a lot.

I have done a similar process to my tranny.

CJ

What oil/filter?

Glad it worked for you! A Suabru builder gave me that regiment to swap to syn. He said not to pussyfoot around, be aggressive. 1,000,000% glad I listened to him. I passed it on to all my buddies.
 

lbv150

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Motorcraft OEM filters in all our trucks and Castrol oil. The 2016 Expedition gets Motorcraft oil. All get changed at 3,000 miles. Never, ever an oil related or any internal engine issue, and we have Fords going back to 1985.
 

jeff kushner

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I build high performance motorcycle engines. As a result, I'm on a lot of forums and see this thread everywhere.

Just like A/H's, we all have opinions and this is mine on this subject so no need to write back "because someone on the internet is wrong" LOL

I'm very aware that oil/filters are the blood of your engines. Changing oil AND filters VERY regularly is thee single most important thing to do(not revving a cold engine is #2) if you want the engine to last. Luckily, most engines built in the last 25 years will easily live for a quarter million miles provided that that oil is always cleaned and changed, removing wear-inducing particles from the engine.

For used cars/trucks, I've always used regular Valvoline oil & Purolator filters. For my new SLK I used the correct insert filter and Mobil 1 synthetic. That car now has 190,000 miles and I had the cam cover off over the summer and took some close-up high-res photos. I showed these to a friend who owns his own shop which has a top notch reputation and I asked him to guess the mileage. He was wrong by 4 times...he guessed 30-40K! The cam wear was minimal at the most! Not too shabby for a supercharged engine!

The oil in my cars never gets dirty, ever.

I recently read several comparisons of oil filters. One has to read from several sources since many have their own agendas. The conclusion was that the Purolators(motorcrafts are the same filter) are very good for the money, Amsoil & Royal purple also showed very good or better results. I didn't decide this, just telling you the results. Fram, not so good BUT not terrible either as long as you change them!

Keep these two facts in mind....that despite what your charitable wife or girlfriend tells you, size matters...this goes for oil filters too. Those tiny filters used on many small 1.6L engines must be changed very often because they only have so much area to collect dirt before they go into bypass mode. The big PH-2 used on the 5.4 can collect a lot more because they have a lot of area to collect the dirt. If you ever doubt the amount of dirt your engine produces, pull & weigh that old filter and fill a new one with oil & compare the two!

Second...if you wait too long to change your oil filter, it will simply go into bypass mode which is supposed to recirculate your dirty oil but because of how they are made, often dump all that collected dirt BACK INTO YOUR ENGINE!

My GF's car had one of those 1/4 filters as I refer to them and even at 3,000 miles, it was full of dirt.

As long as you use a good quality correct viscosity oil, stay away from "Joe's filter" or other off brand filters and change both often, you will be in good shape! That's the bottom line. Try to stick with the same oil for the life of the engine as using a different oil will cause different imprinting on the metal to metal surfaces, not damage per se but different. If you must use a different oil, try to remove and replace it with your usual oil as soon as you can.

For my new '17 Expy,Mobil 1 /Motorcraft syn(made by Kendall) Ford FL500S, or the Purolator Classic L22500 are my two choices for filters and oil.

jeff


References:
http://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ilter-testing-results-thread-4g63t-4b11t.html
http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/oilfilterstudy.html
https://bobistheoilguy.com/
http://www.austincc.edu/wkibbe/oilfilterstudy.htm
 
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USMCBuckWild

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I build high performance motorcycle engines. As a result, I'm on a lot of forums and see this thread everywhere.

Just like A/H's, we all have opinions and this is mine on this subject so no need to write back "because someone on the internet is wrong" LOL

I'm very aware that oil/filters are the blood of your engines. Changing oil AND filters VERY regularly is thee single most important thing to do(not revving a cold engine is #2) if you want the engine to last. Luckily, most engines built in the last 25 years will easily live for a quarter million miles provided that that oil is always cleaned and changed, removing wear-inducing particles from the engine.

For used cars/trucks, I've always used regular Valvoline oil & Purolator filters. For my new SLK I used the correct insert filter and Mobil 1 synthetic. That car now has 190,000 miles and I had the cam cover off over the summer and took some close-up high-res photos. I showed these to a friend who owns his own shop which has a top notch reputation and I asked him to guess the mileage. He was wrong by 4 times...he guessed 30-40K! The cam wear was minimal at the most! Not too shabby for a supercharged engine!

The oil in my cars never gets dirty, ever.

I recently read several comparisons of oil filters. One has to read from several sources since many have their own agendas. The conclusion was that the Purolators(motorcrafts are the same filter) are very good for the money, Amsoil & Royal purple also showed very good or better results. I didn't decide this, just telling you the results. Fram, not so good BUT not terrible either as long as you change them!

Keep these two facts in mind....that despite what your charitable wife or girlfriend tells you, size matters...this goes for oil filters too. Those tiny filters used on many small 1.6L engines must be changed very often because they only have so much area to collect dirt before they go into bypass mode. The big PH-2 used on the 5.4 can collect a lot more because they have a lot of area to collect the dirt. If you ever doubt the amount of dirt your engine produces, pull & weigh that old filter and fill a new one with oil & compare the two!

Second...if you wait too long to change your oil filter, it will simply go into bypass mode which is supposed to recirculate your dirty oil but because of how they are made, often dump all that collected dirt BACK INTO YOUR ENGINE!

My GF's car had one of those 1/4 filters as I refer to them and even at 3,000 miles, it was full of dirt.

As long as you use a good quality correct viscosity oil, stay away from "Joe's filter" or other off brand filters and change both often, you will be in good shape! That's the bottom line. Try to stick with the same oil for the life of the engine as using a different oil will cause different imprinting on the metal to metal surfaces, not damage per se but different. If you must use a different oil, try to remove and replace it with your usual oil as soon as you can.

For my new '17 Expy,Mobil 1 /Motorcraft syn(made by Kendall) Ford FL500S, or the Purolator Classic L22500 are my two choices for filters and oil.

jeff


References:
http://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ilter-testing-results-thread-4g63t-4b11t.html
http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/oilfilterstudy.html
https://bobistheoilguy.com/
http://www.austincc.edu/wkibbe/oilfilterstudy.htm

Excellent!
 

Jb14

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Buckwild I have an 05 with 260k. I used the Motorcraft 5-20 Syn blend that was recommended for about the first 200k. I switched to Asmoil full syn 5-20 and have ran it until my last oil change, you can only get from an independant shop. I travel for business a lot and ran into a situation that I was unable to get it changed with the Amsoil so I did my self with the Valvoline 5-20 syn blend (I felt like experimenting) Everything was fine for about the first 1000 miles then the engine started sounding and ticking louder, as the miles went on (oil level is full) my engine kept ticking louder. So I went back to full syn Mobile1 5-20 and runs like when I had the Amsoil.

As for filter I am using the Mobile1 filter, but I would also go with what Stamp recommended. There is a good youtube vid out that shows and compares oil filters that helped me decide.

Also with full syn no oil leaks with original seals
 

1955moose

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You might have messed with one of the cam sensors, when you switched oils. 2005-07 had cam sensor problems as you probably already know.


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