What year expedition to buy?

[tcwaltz]

The 2000 is a good year model to work with as a base for a fairly decent vehicle. I paid $1000 for one that had a few known issues. Probably the worst thing I've been dealing with is rust, but I've been able to treat most of it and its fine. These things will develop rust holes in the roof where the ridges are. I had 4 in mine and they were half ass repaired and the PO wasn't on the up and up about it. I originally thought the water coming in was the typical windshield leak and it turned out to be the holes. I used a flanging kit and riveted new metal in and its fine now.

If you can get a 2000 EB you will be getting a car that can easily be updated to have most of the conveniences of the newer vehicles. I recently installed a Jensen VX7022 in mine. Took a little cutting of the dash, but I now have bluetooth, hands free phone, ipod connectivity, DVD in vehicle, Navigation and a backup camera. I replaced the engine with reman long block from Promar. I replaced the intake manifold with Dorman after market and the vehicle runs just fine (its not very expensive and changing it is relatively easy). I've done the suspension all the way around including replacing the air springs in the back. I have around $6500 in mine at the moment and that includes having purchased an engine lift, engine stand and a transmission jack. Parts are readily available and you can use many parts from the F150 as well. The only two things that have not been rebuilt or serviced on this yet is the transmission and the rear axle.
I have 3 minor annoyances that I have yet to resolve. I have a little play in the steering. I'm guessing its play in the gear box because I don't detect any wear in the pitman arm or tierod ends. I have a rattle when I stop for a bit. It will go away when I put it in park. Then it will come back. I think this is likely the heatshield on the exhaust pipes rattling since I did have to pry around them a bit when getting at the bell housing bolts. Last thing is the passenger window that will roll down but not roll back up consistently. Its electrical and I figure related to the drivers side button I just haven't tried to track it down yet.

Overall, its a good year model to work with, rust can be an issue, but parts are pretty much available. The 2000 has the PI heads and overall its a pretty upgradeable vehicle.

 

[tcwaltz]

I think the only thing I wish I could do was put a 5/6 speed transmission in mine. I just know that if I had at least one more gear it would get better gas mileage. I have a 2000 Trans Am with a LS1 and it spins 1400 rpm at 70mph. Gets mid 20's for fuel economy. The Expy is spinning around 2200 at 70 and getting 17ish. That is probably the only thing I wish I knew more about was the transmissions and if you could change them out for newer year models.

 

[1955moose]

Every issue you listed on your 2000, I have on mine, except the window. You wouldn't have enough power to pull higher gears. Not to mention this SUV weighs over 5,000 lbs. putting the dimples in the roof, and letting water gather, is what rots the metal. You can try another window switch, or just check it for continuity. My bet is you've got a failing window motor. Usually causes most window issues.


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[tcwaltz]

Every issue you listed on your 2000, I have on mine, except the window. You wouldn't have enough power to pull higher gears. Not to mention this SUV weighs over 5,000 lbs. putting the dimples in the roof, and letting water gather, is what rots the metal. You can try another window switch, or just check it for continuity. My bet is you've got a failing window motor. Usually causes most window issues.


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Since the vehicle was 16 years old I just "assumed" the motor was bad because it didn't work from either switch but would randomly got down part way per the PO. Bought a new regulator/motor and swapped it because I've done a few (both sides of the TA) and they get old. Didn't change anything. If I keep holding the switch it eventually will go up. I pulled the passenger door and cleaned it. I've read were people have found broken wires in the door or the contacts on the switch get carbon build up. Need to test the drivers side I've just been kind of lazy. I haven't finished it yet but I'm likely going to fill the first set of grooves on the roof with glass bondo so the water can't pool anymore. Although if I do a decent job and get it sealed up well it may not matter. Fortunately for me my driveway has a slight tilt so the water generally runs out, although if the air ride drops enough a little will pool.. I have 3 doors to finish cleaning up but I ospho'd all the rust after wire brushing and its seems good. Going to pull the door panel off and rivet some metal in from the inside that I can fold back up in the door crease then treat it all.

 

[1955moose]

I was talking to a friend, who is also a professional body man, and he mentioned fiberglass also. When I mentioned I used bondo, and it still leaked, he said water will pass through bondo. The previous owner welded a piece of steel on one of the roof dimples on the inside. But wasn't successful.


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[Habbibie]

I try to avoid the first year of a new generation until the car maker fixes all the little twerks out of it so in my opinion I'd avoid the 1997, 2003, 2005(the changed the engine to a 3V), 2007 and 2015 which the year they switched to the Eco boost motor

 

[1955moose]

If the early ones didn't have the too few threads for plugs, and windshield leak, their the most trouble free. After 2008 they fixed the broken spark plug problem. So yeah it would seem 98-01 is good, then 09 up is good. Do 09 and up have the cam phasers? Or any other major issues. From what I've read, it's usually something silly like a heated seat or noise from torque convertor. But not catastrophic like 04-07.


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[Gumbyalso]

I think I've had a paint issue on every Ford I've owned starting with my '58 Custom 300. Since I know I'm driving mine until it dies, once a year I go at the roof with some rust converter on the rust spots and then liberally brush on some Rustoleum. I don't know too many folks here that are tall enough to notice. I do the same on my two '05 Explorers. They all lose paint from those grooves. No way am I paying what the guys are asking around here to paint a vehicle with 283K miles. I also found a good deal of corrosion around the radiator this year. I must have caught some salt on the very few times roads are treated here. I treated it with rust converter and it appears it will last a while longer.

On the 2000s the replacement spark plugs have a much longer thread length than the original plugs that came with the 5.4s that year. I had mine replaced with the longer thread length plug at 100K and 200K and never spit a plug. Maybe more luck than anything. I also change whatever tranny fluid I can out by dropping the pan (about 6.25 qts) along with the tranny screen every 30K. Haven't had a transmission problem yet. Same goes for the fuel filter, changed every 30K. All and all, I've put very little money into my 2000 Expedition. Same goes for my 2011, except for that #@%$ seat heater.

 

[1955moose]

You've just described the service intervals for most vehicles. Tranny service religiously at 30k, fuel filter 30k, same for air filter, brake fluid should also be flushed at 30 k unless your running dot 5 synthetic. If every one actually read their service manual intervals, we'd have nothing on the forum to talk about or diagnose.


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[Gumbyalso]

So true...