Lifting a 2008 - Tire/wheel questions

[briandye]

I've never lifted a vehicle before, so I have a few questions that I haven’t found much info on. I’ve also not run larger tires than stock before, so I have questions there as well.

I have a 2008 Expedition Limited. No air ride. 20” factory wheels.

I am looking at the 3/2 (3.5/2.5?) level and lift kit, coil spacers. I found them all over the web. Some websites are as low as $130, and some are $400+ for what appears to be the exact same spacers, maybe a slightly different shape. Any to stay away from (And why?) I’d really love to save some money if possible.

My stock tires are 31.9”, so I don’t think going to 33’s would be as much of a change as i’d like, so I think I’ll run 35’s. It’s not gonna be my DD for much longer, I’ll be picking up another panther soon.

35” tires seem to lose the normal “255/45/20” size rating, for something like “35x12.5x20” which I know is height/width/diameter. What size 35” tire would be ideal on the factory 20” wheels? Would 12.5 work on the not-12.5” wide wheel?

Lifting from the coils would probably pull the hubs in a little bit, right? How will the stock wheels look in the wheel well? Will I need hub-centric spacers to push the wheels out a bit?

I know this is a lot of questions, I figured i’d compile them all in one post.

Thanks a lot for any help!
Looking to start ordering parts ASAP as I have one long weekend coming up, and that’ll be my only shot to install this stuff for the next while.

 

[J Ski]

@briandye 2016 with everything u want. Readylift 3/2, stock 20s on 35/11.50s
Check out my write up here
http://www.expeditionforum.com/thre...perience-thus-far-2016-el-platinum-4x4.32900/

Stay away from anything under $300. I highly recommend Readylift, solid spacers, well built, thick, and are doing excellent after almost 10,000 miles on them. You WILL NOT be able to run anything wider than 11.50s on stock 20s UNLESS you get aftermarket lower offset wheels. This is also my first lift and first time with bigger tires on any vehicle I’ve owned. Stock wheels and tires look funny see pics in my post

 

[J Ski]

Future wheel setup

 

[briandye]

Thanks for the info and link! Yours looks great!

Do you happen to have any pictures from the front and back, showing the “stance” of the truck with the lift installed? Just curious if it brings the hubs inward like the spacer lifts did on the 4th gen Explorers. (Previous vehicle)

I searched some 11.5” wide tires vs the 12.5”, boy options are far and few, and prices are about $100+ more PER tire! If I ran a small spacer (maybe 1”?) on the stock wheels, would that clear 12.5” tires? I just can’t justify spending over $1100 on just tires, I’ll skip the lift at that point.

I’d eventually like to get some Fuel style black wheels but that won’t be for quite some time (whenever the new 35’s needed to be replaced is when i’d already have some new wheels sitting in the garage)

 

[J Ski]

Thanks for the info and link! Yours looks great!

Do you happen to have any pictures from the front and back, showing the “stance” of the truck with the lift installed? Just curious if it brings the hubs inward like the spacer lifts did on the 4th gen Explorers. (Previous vehicle)

I searched some 11.5” wide tires vs the 12.5”, boy options are far and few, and prices are about $100+ more PER tire! If I ran a small spacer (maybe 1”?) on the stock wheels, would that clear 12.5” tires? I just can’t justify spending over $1100 on just tires, I’ll skip the lift at that point.

I’d eventually like to get some Fuel style black wheels but that won’t be for quite some time (whenever the new 35’s needed to be replaced is when i’d already have some new wheels sitting in the garage)

Yes the wheels do sit in a little still, not quite flush. I’m debating either dealin with it, running a spacer, or waiting until times to get new wheels and get a lower offset. 33/12.50s should work, the issue when you go to 35s in rubbing the UCA. 33s being shorter apparently cause no UCA rubbing issues with 12.50 wide.

Anything over 3/8” of a spacer you will need to press in longer studs for the lugs to grab. If you use an adapter (the o e that comes with its own set of lug studs, anything under 1.5” adapter you will need to shave off the top of each lug since it will stick out past the adapter surface and cause wheel not to sit flush. No bueno there.

I’ve got some washers that I’m going to mock up a spacer on the wheels to see what kind of rubbing I get or cutting I may need to do

Here’s how it sits now

 

[J Ski]

I’ve got limited options with spacers/adapters with having the 35s. I also have the electronic running boards which limit amount the tire can stick out without hitting those I’m thinking 3/8” spacer just for piece of mind that they won’t rub at full turn anymore then wait for wheels

 

[briandye]

I love the stance of your truck. The front looks perfect, but the rear does look like it could use a half inch to inch spacer on the wheel.

I’ve dug and dug to try to convince myself that the $130 eBay spacers were the same as the name brand (such as ReadyLift) but found a few bad reviews on random forums once I found the brand. The issue wasn’t even with the spacer itself, but the bolts being grade 5, and welded in place. One member said his bolts weren’t welded in the rear spacers, and popped out when he was trying to install.

The ReadyLift is on eBay for something like $270, from ReadyLift themselves, so I’ll be ordering that one.

I’m so ready to bite the bullet and install it this upcoming weekend, but wheels/tires are my biggest issue.

I get so overwhelmed when looking at tires (sizes specifically) that I just give up and move onto something else for the time being.

I’d love to bite the bullet and order some Fuel style wheels and 35x12.5x18s or 20s, but wheels aren’t in the budget at all for now.

What size spacer would I need to run to clear the 12.5” tire? Im not opposed to grinding the studs down, if it comes down to it, they can be replaced.

 

[J Ski]

I love the stance of your truck. The front looks perfect, but the rear does look like it could use a half inch to inch spacer on the wheel.

I’ve dug and dug to try to convince myself that the $130 eBay spacers were the same as the name brand (such as ReadyLift) but found a few bad reviews on random forums once I found the brand. The issue wasn’t even with the spacer itself, but the bolts being grade 5, and welded in place. One member said his bolts weren’t welded in the rear spacers, and popped out when he was trying to install.

The ReadyLift is on eBay for something like $270, from ReadyLift themselves, so I’ll be ordering that one.

I’m so ready to bite the bullet and install it this upcoming weekend, but wheels/tires are my biggest issue.

I get so overwhelmed when looking at tires (sizes specifically) that I just give up and move onto something else for the time being.

I’d love to bite the bullet and order some Fuel style wheels and 35x12.5x18s or 20s, but wheels aren’t in the budget at all for now.

What size spacer would I need to run to clear the 12.5” tire? Im not opposed to grinding the studs down, if it comes down to it, they can be replaced.

Readylift spacers will not allow a 35/12.50 to fit without major rubbing and panel cutting involved per Readylift technician, this is why I went with 11.50s. Minimum .5” spacers to get them off the UCA at full lock. You’ll get to around 3/4 turn and start rubbing the crap out of the 12.50s. So with 12.50s and a .5” spacer your tire will sit where mine does now in relation to UCA see below:

Now that it’s off the UCA, you’ll have to worry about trimming wheel wells and the body panels for the outside of the tire to clear everything. It was too much of a mess and way to much cutting involved when I had a mock 35/12.50 installed to see where it rubbed and what would need to be cut. If you really want a 12.50 wide, I would highly recommend 33s. A lot more room to work with with that much less height involved

 

[Vancouver Bob]

Your 255/45/20 tire is about 10" wide. So to maintain the same spacing from inner tire to UCA and what not with a 12.5" tire you'd need a wheel spacer of about 1.25". The spacer would essentially change your wheel offset from +44 to about +12. I've got 12.5" tires with a +1 offset and looks like this...

 

[briandye]

My issue with the tires isn’t that I “need” to have that 12.5” tire, it’s just the fact that it changes the price to nearly $100+ PER tire to drop to an 11.5”. I’d much rather have the 11.5 due to the spacing, but can’t justify $1200+ on 4 tires.

Ive been scouring the marketplace and CL for some aftermarket wheels and most of them already have good tires on them, but haven’t came across anything I really like.

 

[briandye]

Also, what kind of issues will I be seeing with the larger tires? Some people on other vehicles swear you have to re-gear the rear end, get a tune to adjust the computer for the larger tires, etc. If any of that is needed, it’s gonna put this project on hold for sure, as that’s all decently expensive stuff.

 

[MrBlargMan]

You shouldn't need to change your gears. The ecoboost provides plenty of torque. I run 35x12.5x17's on my 2003 with a 5.4L 2V and the stock 3.73 gearing is still just fine. The dealership can use their scan tool to change the tire size settings so that your speedometer reads correctly. A new "tune" is not necessary. There are some tire size calculators out there that will also calculate your difference in speedometer reading if you choose not to have the settings changed in the computer.

 

[briandye]

I’m not worried about the speedo, I have Waze going 99.9% of my drive anyways, and will be fanning an iPad into the dash which will also have a GPS speedo on the OBDII program I use. I just didn’t know if it would affect shift points and all that type of stuff like some trucks seem to do.

I don’t have the Ecoboost, I gotta have a V8 in something this big. (I know the ecoboost probably walks laps around the old 5.4, but getting in this thing, turning the key, I need to hear that V8! lol)

Ordered the lift, now I’m pricing out tires. Looking for sites that offer the financing options, and I’ll just try to take advantage of the typical “100 days same as cash” deals they have.

Guess I’m going with an 11.5” tire for now. I would be too nervous with spacers, and I wouldn’t be 100% happy with 33’s.

 

[briandye]

Well, happy to say I have the lift/level kit, as well as 4 Nitto Terra Grappler G2 tires on the way. 35x11.50R20. Was approved from one of those no-check financing companies, with a 90 day same as cash option, the only downfall is a small "initial fee" but reviews for them had no issues AS LONG AS YOU PAID within the 90 days, which I will. Id actually probably have them paid off here in the next month, but my next two checks are for all my big stuff like mortgage, and utilities.

Will post pics, and/or questions if I have any!

Thanks again for your guys' help!

 

[J Ski]

Well, happy to say I have the lift/level kit, as well as 4 Nitto Terra Grappler G2 tires on the way. 35x11.50R20. Was approved from one of those no-check financing companies, with a 90 day same as cash option, the only downfall is a small "initial fee" but reviews for them had no issues AS LONG AS YOU PAID within the 90 days, which I will. Id actually probably have them paid off here in the next month, but my next two checks are for all my big stuff like mortgage, and utilities.

Will post pics, and/or questions if I have any!

Thanks again for your guys' help!

Congrats can’t wait to see the set up!

 

[Rebel4fun]

I'm getting the Rancho quick lift strut assembly and icon front control arms with the delta Unibal. Front is 1.25 and rear is 0.75 inches. Anyone have any experience with these?

Right now I'm sitting stock with 33inch tires.

 

[Vancouver Bob]

I'm getting the Rancho quick lift strut assembly and icon front control arms with the delta Unibal.

View attachment 24349

Just out of curiosity... what does the Icon control arms buy you? I went with the 3.5/2.5...

 

[briandye]

That is one of the best looking aftermarket bumpers I have ever seen in my life. I've only ever saw them flat black/bedlined which doesn't necessarily look bad, but damn yours looks perfect!

 

[Vancouver Bob]

That is one of the best looking aftermarket bumpers I have ever seen in my life. I've only ever saw them flat black/bedlined which doesn't necessarily look bad, but damn yours looks perfect!

Thanks, Brian! Looks perfect from a distance . Bedliner was an option but I didn't want to add a third color to the color scheme so planned on painting it to match some how. Ended up with what I have. It's just rattle canned right now. Still need a little fine tuning on the gaps... then I'll have it blasted and painted.

 

[Knox GSL]

I'm getting the Rancho quick lift strut assembly and icon front control arms with the delta Unibal. Front is 1.25 and rear is 0.75 inches. Anyone have any experience with these?

Right now I'm sitting stock with 33inch tires.

View attachment 24349

Let us know how the control arms go, very interested.