Oil catch can

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JLT won' void your warranty but the RX will as you have to put holes in your intake
Some dealers may not honor warranty and some will. It’s seems it’s a dealer descression issue ( going by what I’ve read on other forums). The Team RXP kit does come with black plastic pipe plugs if you wanted to put it back to stock and plug holes. My personal opinion on a dealer telling me this kit somehow hurt my engine or it components and therefore voids my warranty is I would rather not let them work on my rig anyway because they don’t get the whole concept or they just cherry pick their work. EFF them I’ll take my business elsewhere.
 

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The only way they can claim not covered under warranty is if they can, without a doubt, directly link whatever non OEM upgrade in question to the issue you are having. Although I have heard of my tighter dealerships that would definitely void everything if they saw drill holes in the intake. Like you said, each one is different and honestly if putting a can on these isn’t viewed as proper maintenance for engine longevity then the stealership no longer needs your business.
 
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I’m pretty confident that warranty claims
The only way they can claim not covered under warranty is if they can, without a doubt, directly link whatever non OEM upgrade in question to the issue you are having. Although I have heard of my tighter dealerships that would definitely void everything if they saw drill holes in the intake. Like you said, each one is different and honestly if putting a can on these isn’t viewed as proper maintenance for engine longevity then the stealership no longer needs your business.
Yes and I’m pretty confident warranty claims on the engine won’t become an issue before my warranty is up. I do have a 8year 100000 mile warranty but I’ll be lucky to put 50000 on it in 8 yrs . She’s a garage queen mostly next to my muscle car garage queen.
 
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DF7D09ED-E4E9-4793-8B0B-1B11033F9DE6.jpeg DFF4EF8A-E45C-4AF8-828A-75ABD8E7F587.jpeg 6261C444-A6AD-43D1-9A5D-EC13689C8536.jpeg 48ED7FA2-BC09-4C16-BA7B-F777E2E549F6.jpeg I got my install finished today ....you can see I already had oil in clean side hose as seen in the hose pic. 5,870 mi.
 
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Here is a better pic without as much sun glare ....also if I cut the wheels to the left I can easily access drain tube through wheelwell AE00B3E9-2817-4A89-A764-E6B5F39B0D85.jpeg 73BCC96C-C097-4876-AAC8-90DF758770A5.jpeg
 
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I did just go back and modify my engine cover a tad bit to give a little more clearance for hoses not to rub through, and also put a plug in drain hose so no drips after draining. Thanks J-Ski for your location picture because this kit shows mounting for 15-18 F150 (no Expy)off of coolant reservoir bolt on other side on core support and Expys reservoir is on driver inner fender. Plus when I installed it there on cousins 150 it sucks as to get to drain. His fire wall was different than Expy so the can didn’t work there as good as it does on the Expy. Hope this helps anyone that decides on the Team RXP can install. Oh and one more thing ... since the kit is designed for F150 the small map sensor hose is too short to reach this passenger side firewall can location so I went out and bought 4ft of fuel hose....$6.75. 44C2F72B-F1BF-4848-8667-4631D728B213.jpeg D9AFAF28-B540-4154-94A5-90CEE3ABE719.jpeg 2559C3CE-4293-4AE4-A55C-D0DC252082DD.jpeg
 

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Can someone take a picture of how the hoses hook up on the catch can like jski used. I believe I see where it goes but not for sure. Used to do all my own work on cars back in early 70 but things have changed. I believe it goes from the blower above intake manifold to where the pcv valve would be on valve cover??
 
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Question for you. My 2015 Expy has a sensor in the line from the valve cover to the drivers side turbo inlet. what did you do with this sensor so you didnt get a check engine light?
I incliped the sensor from existing factory hose and I clamped on new 3/8 fuel hose ( it’s got a little nipple with an o ring) over nipple and Tee’d into new center hose going to the can(that’s the dirty air inlet coming from passenger side valve cover). The kit only supplied 12” of that 3/8 hose so I bought 48” hose to make it reach passenger side where I mounted the can instead of running the larger 5/8 hose around to it and back to can. It worked nicely and no check engine light!
 

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I incliped the sensor from existing factory hose and I clamped on new 3/8 fuel hose ( it’s got a little nipple with an o ring) over nipple and Tee’d into new center hose going to the can(that’s the dirty air inlet coming from passenger side valve cover). The kit only supplied 12” of that 3/8 hose so I bought 48” hose to make it reach passenger side where I mounted the can instead of running the larger 5/8 hose around to it and back to can. It worked nicely and no check engine light!
 

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I incliped the sensor from existing factory hose and I clamped on new 3/8 fuel hose ( it’s got a little nipple with an o ring) over nipple and Tee’d into new center hose going to the can(that’s the dirty air inlet coming from passenger side valve cover). The kit only supplied 12” of that 3/8 hose so I bought 48” hose to make it reach passenger side where I mounted the can instead of running the larger 5/8 hose around to it and back to can. It worked nicely and no check engine light!

Just want to be clear because I believe I am going to put one of these on my 2015 Expy with 61,000 miles. So you basically left the line on the drivers side attached to valve cover, cut the line on the turbo side of sensor, attached the fuel line you purchased and ran it to the passenger side and Tee'd it into the line going from the pvc valve to the can.

Also, I may at first just use this can as a single side to begin with. Anyone know why I couldn't do this if I cap one of the two side ports on the can where the turbo lines would attach. The reason is I have an extended warranty and my dealer hasn't given me a clear answer on if this will void my extended warranty. My vehicle is currently there for two reasons. One is I am getting fuel, or junk in my oil. In 3000 miles the oil level is going up on dipstick. When I change oil it appears to be adding a half a court of gas or gassy junk to my oil. They so far have not found anything that is leaking down in my engine. If they don't find anything I'm hoping this catch can will capture what ever is going in my oil.

The second reason its at dealer is for a one time occurrence I had. Driving and wrench light came on and I lost all power, coasted to the shoulder of road and the vehicle ran so rough I though something internal broke. I shut off engine, restarted and everything back to normal. Of course they no codes recorded and they cannot find anything wrong that caused this. If it happens again I am going to hook up my scanner and hopefully catch a code before I turn the engine off so I can show them what it is. This is the reason I would only hook can up as a single to begin with because if I take it back for this problem I will remove can and don't want drill holes.
 

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Just want to be clear because I believe I am going to put one of these on my 2015 Expy with 61,000 miles. So you basically left the line on the drivers side attached to valve cover, cut the line on the turbo side of sensor, attached the fuel line you purchased and ran it to the passenger side and Tee'd it into the line going from the pvc valve to the can.

Also, I may at first just use this can as a single side to begin with. Anyone know why I couldn't do this if I cap one of the two side ports on the can where the turbo lines would attach. The reason is I have an extended warranty and my dealer hasn't given me a clear answer on if this will void my extended warranty. My vehicle is currently there for two reasons. One is I am getting fuel, or junk in my oil. In 3000 miles the oil level is going up on dipstick. When I change oil it appears to be adding a half a court of gas or gassy junk to my oil. They so far have not found anything that is leaking down in my engine. If they don't find anything I'm hoping this catch can will capture what ever is going in my oil.

The second reason its at dealer is for a one time occurrence I had. Driving and wrench light came on and I lost all power, coasted to the shoulder of road and the vehicle ran so rough I though something internal broke. I shut off engine, restarted and everything back to normal. Of course they no codes recorded and they cannot find anything wrong that caused this. If it happens again I am going to hook up my scanner and hopefully catch a code before I turn the engine off so I can show them what it is. This is the reason I would only hook can up as a single to begin with because if I take it back for this problem I will remove can and don't want drill holes.
The jlt single side catch can is meant for plug and play. Hook it up, attach it, and it will do the rest. This will not void extended warranty but if you’re worried than just keep the OEM hose you remove. There is no drilling involved so idk what you mean by not wanting drill holes

It collects a good amount of gunk but it sounds like you e got something g else going on causing higher oil readings unless you aren’t letting the truck cool down when you are checking the levels. Hot engine will have higher readings which I’m sure you know

I had same occurrence with wrench light and they pulled a code for electronic throttle body. Replaced same day 30 minites
 
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Just want to be clear because I believe I am going to put one of these on my 2015 Expy with 61,000 miles. So you basically left the line on the drivers side attached to valve cover, cut the line on the turbo side of sensor, attached the fuel line you purchased and ran it to the passenger side and Tee'd it into the line going from the pvc valve to the can.

Also, I may at first just use this can as a single side to begin with. Anyone know why I couldn't do this if I cap one of the two side ports on the can where the turbo lines would attach. The reason is I have an extended warranty and my dealer hasn't given me a clear answer on if this will void my extended warranty. My vehicle is currently there for two reasons. One is I am getting fuel, or junk in my oil. In 3000 miles the oil level is going up on dipstick. When I change oil it appears to be adding a half a court of gas or gassy junk to my oil. They so far have not found anything that is leaking down in my engine. If they don't find anything I'm hoping this catch can will capture what ever is going in my oil.

The second reason its at dealer is for a one time occurrence I had. Driving and wrench light came on and I lost all power, coasted to the shoulder of road and the vehicle ran so rough I though something internal broke. I shut off engine, restarted and everything back to normal. Of course they no codes recorded and they cannot find anything wrong that caused this. If it happens again I am going to hook up my scanner and hopefully catch a code before I turn the engine off so I can show them what it is. This is the reason I would only hook can up as a single to begin with because if I take it back for this problem I will remove can and don't want drill holes.
Ok I’ll try to explain it more clearly. The driver side has a factory hose that connects from driver side turbo air inlet pipe to driver side valve cover and it has a sensor that plugs in the middle (intersection) of that hose. You take that factory hose off completely (unhooking sensor and let hang for now) and store hose for if you need to ever put it back stock. Now the driver side valve cover nipple gets a cap plug(no longer in use) and the driver side turbo inlet pipe nipple gets a hose that runs to either the left or right side nipple on catch can and also tees into passenger side turbo inlet pipe (which is optional but recommended and requires drilling and installing nipple in pipe). This is the secondary vacuum source while in boost. Now the other hole you drill is in the top side of air cleaner box and install a pipe nipple and connect hose from there to new valve cover breather cap on driver side (replaces factory oil filler cap).Thats now the source of filtered air entering the engine crankcase. Ok now on the passenger side you unhook factory hose from valve cover to intake manifold and set aside also for ever bringing back to stock. You then run hose from intake manifold nipple to other side of catch can nipple (left or right and this is your primary source of vacuum at idle and light throttle). Now all you have left is passenger side valve cover nipple (dirty side exit of crankcase vapors side)and the unhooked sensor from the driver side that you left hanging. So you hook a hose from the valve cover nipple to the Center of catch can nipple and install a tee in that line to pick up the new 3/8 hose that you clamp over sensor nipple that was unhooked from the factory hose you removed in the beginning on the driver side. The kit does come with black plastic pipe plugs that can be installed in drilled holes if you do put it back to stock. Also if you don’t want to drill passenger side turbo inlet pipe you can just use the driver side turbo for secondary vacuum source instead of both. I did both sides and checked the vacuum at can while had someone revving the engine under boost and had plenty of vacuum to operate the system.... it was just as much vacuum as I have at an idle from the intake. Good Luck and I hope this helps you.
 
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Ok I forgot to mention the check valves that go inline on the left and right catch can hoses. They are installed of course flowing away from can because they are the vacuum source hoses That give the can vacuum to pull the crankcase vapors from the middle hose port on the can.
 

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Ok I forgot to mention the check valves that go inline on the left and right catch can hoses. They are installed of course flowing away from can because they are the vacuum source hoses That give the can vacuum to pull the crankcase vapors from the middle hose port on the can.

Ok, I think I got it. I was originally confused on the sensor because I thought it was a flow through sensor and I was trying to figure out what was on the other end opposite the 3/8 hose but I think I have it now. Thanks! I appreciate the help
 

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The jlt single side catch can is meant for plug and play. Hook it up, attach it, and it will do the rest. This will not void extended warranty but if you’re worried than just keep the OEM hose you remove. There is no drilling involved so idk what you mean by not wanting drill holes

It collects a good amount of gunk but it sounds like you e got something g else going on causing higher oil readings unless you aren’t letting the truck cool down when you are checking the levels. Hot engine will have higher readings which I’m sure you know

I had same occurrence with wrench light and they pulled a code for electronic throttle body. Replaced same day 30 minites

They think thats what it is, throttle body, causing my wrench light but until it happens and they can capture a code they say the extended warranty will not pay for it. Of course it didn't store any code. I'm going to carry my scanner with so if it does happen again I can plug it in and capture the code and take a pic of it for them.

I didn't hear from shop today but last I knew they had not found the source of gas going in oil. It was noticeable on my last oil change. I drained about a half to 3/4 of a quart extra oil with a strong gas smell. Hope they find something.
 
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Ok, I think I got it. I was originally confused on the sensor because I thought it was a flow through sensor and I was trying to figure out what was on the other end opposite the 3/8 hose but I think I have it now. Thanks! I appreciate the help
This is the driver side hose that Had the sensor that I removed. The hole in the middle is where the sensor came out of. The other pic is the sensor with the 3/8 hose and stainless steel hose clamp which is now just sitting on top of the driver side turbo inlet pipe.
ECF0EAFA-5140-48CC-B73F-60987019C566.jpeg 9101E489-545C-4C42-86E6-4B275EA428C4.jpeg
 

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This is the driver side hose that Had the sensor that I removed. The hole in the middle is where the sensor came out of. The other pic is the sensor with the 3/8 hose and stainless steel hose clamp which is now just sitting on top of the driver side turbo inlet pipe.
View attachment 24567 View attachment 24568

Thanks, that helps a lot, I appreciate it!! What does this sensor actually sense?
I am debating on the RXp or the UPR. I like that the UPR uses the Drivers side valve cover nipple instead of the oir filler but I have seen some posts with problems with UPR setting off the CEL though and it also is using 2 seperate cans, one for dirty side and one for clean side.
 
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