Oil catch can

[Boostedbus]

Question for you. My 2015 Expy has a sensor in the line from the valve cover to the drivers side turbo inlet. what did you do with this sensor so you didnt get a check engine light?

I incliped the sensor from existing factory hose and I clamped on new 3/8 fuel hose ( it’s got a little nipple with an o ring) over nipple and Tee’d into new center hose going to the can(that’s the dirty air inlet coming from passenger side valve cover). The kit only supplied 12” of that 3/8 hose so I bought 48” hose to make it reach passenger side where I mounted the can instead of running the larger 5/8 hose around to it and back to can. It worked nicely and no check engine light!

 

[MLyon]

I incliped the sensor from existing factory hose and I clamped on new 3/8 fuel hose ( it’s got a little nipple with an o ring) over nipple and Tee’d into new center hose going to the can(that’s the dirty air inlet coming from passenger side valve cover). The kit only supplied 12” of that 3/8 hose so I bought 48” hose to make it reach passenger side where I mounted the can instead of running the larger 5/8 hose around to it and back to can. It worked nicely and no check engine light!

 

[MLyon]

I incliped the sensor from existing factory hose and I clamped on new 3/8 fuel hose ( it’s got a little nipple with an o ring) over nipple and Tee’d into new center hose going to the can(that’s the dirty air inlet coming from passenger side valve cover). The kit only supplied 12” of that 3/8 hose so I bought 48” hose to make it reach passenger side where I mounted the can instead of running the larger 5/8 hose around to it and back to can. It worked nicely and no check engine light!

Just want to be clear because I believe I am going to put one of these on my 2015 Expy with 61,000 miles. So you basically left the line on the drivers side attached to valve cover, cut the line on the turbo side of sensor, attached the fuel line you purchased and ran it to the passenger side and Tee'd it into the line going from the pvc valve to the can.

Also, I may at first just use this can as a single side to begin with. Anyone know why I couldn't do this if I cap one of the two side ports on the can where the turbo lines would attach. The reason is I have an extended warranty and my dealer hasn't given me a clear answer on if this will void my extended warranty. My vehicle is currently there for two reasons. One is I am getting fuel, or junk in my oil. In 3000 miles the oil level is going up on dipstick. When I change oil it appears to be adding a half a court of gas or gassy junk to my oil. They so far have not found anything that is leaking down in my engine. If they don't find anything I'm hoping this catch can will capture what ever is going in my oil.

The second reason its at dealer is for a one time occurrence I had. Driving and wrench light came on and I lost all power, coasted to the shoulder of road and the vehicle ran so rough I though something internal broke. I shut off engine, restarted and everything back to normal. Of course they no codes recorded and they cannot find anything wrong that caused this. If it happens again I am going to hook up my scanner and hopefully catch a code before I turn the engine off so I can show them what it is. This is the reason I would only hook can up as a single to begin with because if I take it back for this problem I will remove can and don't want drill holes.

 

[J Ski]

Just want to be clear because I believe I am going to put one of these on my 2015 Expy with 61,000 miles. So you basically left the line on the drivers side attached to valve cover, cut the line on the turbo side of sensor, attached the fuel line you purchased and ran it to the passenger side and Tee'd it into the line going from the pvc valve to the can.

Also, I may at first just use this can as a single side to begin with. Anyone know why I couldn't do this if I cap one of the two side ports on the can where the turbo lines would attach. The reason is I have an extended warranty and my dealer hasn't given me a clear answer on if this will void my extended warranty. My vehicle is currently there for two reasons. One is I am getting fuel, or junk in my oil. In 3000 miles the oil level is going up on dipstick. When I change oil it appears to be adding a half a court of gas or gassy junk to my oil. They so far have not found anything that is leaking down in my engine. If they don't find anything I'm hoping this catch can will capture what ever is going in my oil.

The second reason its at dealer is for a one time occurrence I had. Driving and wrench light came on and I lost all power, coasted to the shoulder of road and the vehicle ran so rough I though something internal broke. I shut off engine, restarted and everything back to normal. Of course they no codes recorded and they cannot find anything wrong that caused this. If it happens again I am going to hook up my scanner and hopefully catch a code before I turn the engine off so I can show them what it is. This is the reason I would only hook can up as a single to begin with because if I take it back for this problem I will remove can and don't want drill holes.

The jlt single side catch can is meant for plug and play. Hook it up, attach it, and it will do the rest. This will not void extended warranty but if you’re worried than just keep the OEM hose you remove. There is no drilling involved so idk what you mean by not wanting drill holes

It collects a good amount of gunk but it sounds like you e got something g else going on causing higher oil readings unless you aren’t letting the truck cool down when you are checking the levels. Hot engine will have higher readings which I’m sure you know

I had same occurrence with wrench light and they pulled a code for electronic throttle body. Replaced same day 30 minites

 

[Boostedbus]

Just want to be clear because I believe I am going to put one of these on my 2015 Expy with 61,000 miles. So you basically left the line on the drivers side attached to valve cover, cut the line on the turbo side of sensor, attached the fuel line you purchased and ran it to the passenger side and Tee'd it into the line going from the pvc valve to the can.

Also, I may at first just use this can as a single side to begin with. Anyone know why I couldn't do this if I cap one of the two side ports on the can where the turbo lines would attach. The reason is I have an extended warranty and my dealer hasn't given me a clear answer on if this will void my extended warranty. My vehicle is currently there for two reasons. One is I am getting fuel, or junk in my oil. In 3000 miles the oil level is going up on dipstick. When I change oil it appears to be adding a half a court of gas or gassy junk to my oil. They so far have not found anything that is leaking down in my engine. If they don't find anything I'm hoping this catch can will capture what ever is going in my oil.

The second reason its at dealer is for a one time occurrence I had. Driving and wrench light came on and I lost all power, coasted to the shoulder of road and the vehicle ran so rough I though something internal broke. I shut off engine, restarted and everything back to normal. Of course they no codes recorded and they cannot find anything wrong that caused this. If it happens again I am going to hook up my scanner and hopefully catch a code before I turn the engine off so I can show them what it is. This is the reason I would only hook can up as a single to begin with because if I take it back for this problem I will remove can and don't want drill holes.

Ok I’ll try to explain it more clearly. The driver side has a factory hose that connects from driver side turbo air inlet pipe to driver side valve cover and it has a sensor that plugs in the middle (intersection) of that hose. You take that factory hose off completely (unhooking sensor and let hang for now) and store hose for if you need to ever put it back stock. Now the driver side valve cover nipple gets a cap plug(no longer in use) and the driver side turbo inlet pipe nipple gets a hose that runs to either the left or right side nipple on catch can and also tees into passenger side turbo inlet pipe (which is optional but recommended and requires drilling and installing nipple in pipe). This is the secondary vacuum source while in boost. Now the other hole you drill is in the top side of air cleaner box and install a pipe nipple and connect hose from there to new valve cover breather cap on driver side (replaces factory oil filler cap).Thats now the source of filtered air entering the engine crankcase. Ok now on the passenger side you unhook factory hose from valve cover to intake manifold and set aside also for ever bringing back to stock. You then run hose from intake manifold nipple to other side of catch can nipple (left or right and this is your primary source of vacuum at idle and light throttle). Now all you have left is passenger side valve cover nipple (dirty side exit of crankcase vapors side)and the unhooked sensor from the driver side that you left hanging. So you hook a hose from the valve cover nipple to the Center of catch can nipple and install a tee in that line to pick up the new 3/8 hose that you clamp over sensor nipple that was unhooked from the factory hose you removed in the beginning on the driver side. The kit does come with black plastic pipe plugs that can be installed in drilled holes if you do put it back to stock. Also if you don’t want to drill passenger side turbo inlet pipe you can just use the driver side turbo for secondary vacuum source instead of both. I did both sides and checked the vacuum at can while had someone revving the engine under boost and had plenty of vacuum to operate the system.... it was just as much vacuum as I have at an idle from the intake. Good Luck and I hope this helps you.

 

[Boostedbus]

Ok I forgot to mention the check valves that go inline on the left and right catch can hoses. They are installed of course flowing away from can because they are the vacuum source hoses That give the can vacuum to pull the crankcase vapors from the middle hose port on the can.

 

[MLyon]

Ok I forgot to mention the check valves that go inline on the left and right catch can hoses. They are installed of course flowing away from can because they are the vacuum source hoses That give the can vacuum to pull the crankcase vapors from the middle hose port on the can.

Ok, I think I got it. I was originally confused on the sensor because I thought it was a flow through sensor and I was trying to figure out what was on the other end opposite the 3/8 hose but I think I have it now. Thanks! I appreciate the help

 

[MLyon]

The jlt single side catch can is meant for plug and play. Hook it up, attach it, and it will do the rest. This will not void extended warranty but if you’re worried than just keep the OEM hose you remove. There is no drilling involved so idk what you mean by not wanting drill holes

It collects a good amount of gunk but it sounds like you e got something g else going on causing higher oil readings unless you aren’t letting the truck cool down when you are checking the levels. Hot engine will have higher readings which I’m sure you know

I had same occurrence with wrench light and they pulled a code for electronic throttle body. Replaced same day 30 minites

They think thats what it is, throttle body, causing my wrench light but until it happens and they can capture a code they say the extended warranty will not pay for it. Of course it didn't store any code. I'm going to carry my scanner with so if it does happen again I can plug it in and capture the code and take a pic of it for them.

I didn't hear from shop today but last I knew they had not found the source of gas going in oil. It was noticeable on my last oil change. I drained about a half to 3/4 of a quart extra oil with a strong gas smell. Hope they find something.

 

[Boostedbus]

Ok, I think I got it. I was originally confused on the sensor because I thought it was a flow through sensor and I was trying to figure out what was on the other end opposite the 3/8 hose but I think I have it now. Thanks! I appreciate the help

This is the driver side hose that Had the sensor that I removed. The hole in the middle is where the sensor came out of. The other pic is the sensor with the 3/8 hose and stainless steel hose clamp which is now just sitting on top of the driver side turbo inlet pipe.

 

[MLyon]

This is the driver side hose that Had the sensor that I removed. The hole in the middle is where the sensor came out of. The other pic is the sensor with the 3/8 hose and stainless steel hose clamp which is now just sitting on top of the driver side turbo inlet pipe.
View attachment 24567 View attachment 24568

Thanks, that helps a lot, I appreciate it!! What does this sensor actually sense?
I am debating on the RXp or the UPR. I like that the UPR uses the Drivers side valve cover nipple instead of the oir filler but I have seen some posts with problems with UPR setting off the CEL though and it also is using 2 seperate cans, one for dirty side and one for clean side.