Ecoboost Spark Plug Change Help

[99WhiteC5Coupe]

I have a 2015 Expediton Limited 4x4 with the 3.5 Ecoboost V6, purchased new and now with 45,*** miles. I planned to change the original plugs today using Motorcraft plugs #SP-534 and Motorcraft coil boots #WR-6135.

I am unable to remove the plastic connector at the coil. I am able to pull back the bright red tab, but cannot figure out how to release the connector from the coil without breaking it.

Can anyone provide more guidance? Thank you.

 

[Don Hall]

Check the plug for longevity....... may be good for 100K (?).

http://www.motoringabout.com/when-to-change-spark-plugs/

 

[99WhiteC5Coupe]

It has a 100,000 recommended plug change interval, but I like to change maintenance parts well before the recommended internal. It also has a slightly rough idle at start-up, so I wanted to put new plugs in.

 

[coolzzy]

It should just squeeze by a hand to release the tab once the red locking tab is popped back. The real challenge will come when you try to yank that spark plug boot off the plug be prepared for much cursing. I only got 4 off, 2 of mine seperated the boot from the coil pack so I just popped the packs back on those and will change them later.

 

[1955moose]

That's pretty much why we suggest new boots with any plug change. That and use dielectric grease, so the boots don't weld themselves to the plug.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[99WhiteC5Coupe]

It should just squeeze by a hand to release the tab once the red locking tab is popped back. The real challenge will come when you try to yank that spark plug boot off the plug be prepared for much cursing. I only got 4 off, 2 of mine seperated the boot from the coil pack so I just popped the packs back on those and will change them later.

Thank you.

The connectors seem somewhat brittle after only three years.

When you removed the one bolt that holds the coil and the wiring connector, did you then pull the coil straight off with no twisting?

This is the first time changing plugs on this engine. I had a 1998 Dodge Intrepid with the 3.2 V-6 that had a similar setup - however, the boot was long and fastened to the coil. It made changing spark plugs simple and easy.

 

[coolzzy]

You have to pull but they won't really twist because of their shape and how they seat in the motor. I used a brake drum adjustment tool as a pry bar to get in the tight space and pry up on the body of the coil, they really suction themselves on there.

 

[1955moose]

The tool to pull door panel plastic buttons off might also work well.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[Michael McC]

Push the connector in while you slide the red tab back. I think that step is required because the latch mechanism is like the latch on a sliding window--it is at an acute angle (less than 90 degrees) rather than 90 degrees.

 

[99WhiteC5Coupe]

Push the connector in while you slide the red tab back. I think that step is required because the latch mechanism is like the latch on a sliding window--it is at an acute angle (less than 90 degrees) rather than 90 degrees.

Thank you.

 

[99WhiteC5Coupe]

Update - I finally changed the original spark plugs today in my 2015 Expedition Limited 4x4 with 45,100 miles on them. I had been experiencing a rough idle at cold start - rough enough that it could be felt with the transmission in park. I used the correct iridium Motorcraft spark plugs.

Some observations:

Each of the six coil electrical connectors were very difficult to remove. After the red tab is pulled back (easy), there is a tiny tab to push while pulling off the connector. All were difficult to remove - the design is poor and should have a large push-tab on the connector.

Each of the six coils were difficult to remove but I was able to remove them without any damage by using constant pulling, and prying with a plastic trim stick tool. I applied silicone dielectric grease on the inside of the spark plug boot, and on the barrel of the coil and the rubber seal around the top (for future removal ease).

All six spark plug looked identical - very black and covered with carbon. The gaps were burned and opened to about .040 inches. I was surprised to see how bad they looked at 45,100 miles. Most of the driving I do with the vehicle is at least 10-20 miles (or more) trips, at moderate to rural state route speeds. I use top tier fuel and have never towed or carried heavy cargo. Strictly passenger use. I do not see how the plugs could last 100,000 miles. Towing and heavy duty use would be worse on the plugs.

The cold start idle is now very smooth. If anyone is considering changing the spark plugs early in a 3.5 Ecoboost engine - I would highly recommend it.

 

[JExpedition07]

Update - I finally changed the original spark plugs today in my 2015 Expedition Limited 4x4 with 45,100 miles on them. I had been experiencing a rough idle at cold start - rough enough that it could be felt with the transmission in park. I used the correct iridium Motorcraft spark plugs.

Some observations:

Each of the six coil electrical connectors were very difficult to remove. After the red tab is pulled back (easy), there is a tiny tab to push while pulling off the connector. All were difficult to remove - the design is poor and should have a large push-tab on the connector.

Each of the six coils were difficult to remove but I was able to remove them without any damage by using constant pulling, and prying with a plastic trim stick tool. I applied silicone dielectric grease on the inside of the spark plug boot, and on the barrel of the coil and the rubber seal around the top (for future removal ease).

All six spark plug looked identical - very black and covered with carbon. The gaps were burned and opened to about .040 inches. I was surprised to see how bad they looked at 45,100 miles. Most of the driving I do with the vehicle is at least 10-20 miles (or more) trips, at moderate to rural state route speeds. I use top tier fuel and have never towed or carried heavy cargo. Strictly passenger use. I do not see how the plugs could last 100,000 miles. Towing and heavy duty use would be worse on the plugs.

The cold start idle is now very smooth. If anyone is considering changing the spark plugs early in a 3.5 Ecoboost engine - I would highly recommend it.

Thanks for the update, seems you nailed it on the head. Better to change early than late in this case.

 

[Black]

I have always thought 100k plug changes were a bad idea.
I generally do 50k.
I need to order my plugs and boots. I just hit 51k so I am a little behind.
Need to do differentials, transfercase, and transmission as well too. They get done about 50k as it is cheap and I prefer Amsoil for these anyway.

 

[NASCAR Mike]

I just change the plugs in mine to one heat range colder because I am using the JMS Boostmax and 93 octane so it adds about 5 extra pounds of turbo boost. The clips were a little tricky to remove so I used a small screwdriver to depress the clip while pulling on it.

The boots on mine came off fairly easy; maybe because I only have 6k miles on it. I was surprised to see that the factory plugs did not have any anti-seize on them.

When I installed the new plugs (NGK 6510) I used anti-seize on the threads and set the gap at .028. I also installed dielectric grease on the boots so they come off easier in the future.

 

[Black]

I hope to tackle this on Thursday.
What is the stock gap??

 

[NASCAR Mike]

I hope to tackle this on Thursday.
What is the stock gap??

.032

.028 was recommended by JMS and 5 Star tuning with increased boost to prevent the spark from blowing out.

 

[Flexpedition]

When I installed the new plugs (NGK 6510) I used anti-seize on the threads

Interesting NGK bulletin regarding anti-seize here:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/NGK_TB-0630111antisieze.pdf

 

[NASCAR Mike]

Ford Motorcraft (Autolite) plugs have the same chrome plating and they will seize in the cylinder head. As I removed the plugs from my 17 Expy with 6k miles, it took some force to break them loose. I can only imagine if I had to remove them at 50k miles.

I only put a dab near the tip of the threads so it would lightly coat all of the threads as I screwed it in. I tighten my plugs by hand and then do a 1/8 turn with a wrench. Never had any problems.

 

[JExpedition07]

“As a division of the Honeywell Corporation, Autolite is the manufacturer responsible for the production of all Motorcraft spark plugs in North America for the Ford Motor Company. Both Autolite and Ford/Motorcraft spark plugs are built to quality standards using quality components. Autolite manufacture's the Motorcraft plugs based on the specific design requirements of the Ford Motor Company. Autolite and Motorcraft spark plugs are manufactured side-by-side at our facility in Northern Ohio”

 

[1955moose]

And yet Autolite sparkplugs are a hit or miss item for so many vehicles the past 30 years. I put a set in my 85 mustang 5.0, and yanked them 2 days later. Put in the Motorcraft ones, and was back running perfect. Go figure. Autolite was the Ford brand sparkplugs, and batteries in all Ford's for years, something always gets screwed up when new owners show up, in this case Honeywell. I remember back in the late 60's when AMF took over Harley Davidson, those were some of the most ugly, and undependable motorcycles built. Almost killed the company. People that make bowling equipment should keep their greasy paws out of motorcycles, same thing for people that make heating/air-conditioning like Honeywell. They always think, hey they'll never notice! Guess what, we do!

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk