Fuse to tap dashcam?

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Artie

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Here is mine setup. Main concern was high current for steering wheel heater and dash cam battery pack which charges at 9A and came with 20A fuse (20A + 20A). Because of the shape of fuse box I couldn't push the tap all the way down. Cannot say the connection was loose or flimsy, but just not full enough - which bothered me for some time. Finally I took the panels off and checked connections when both were at full power - temperature didn't go above 47C (ambient was ~17C). Considering I will use steering wheel heater mostly in winter - that should be good. Keep in mind that fuse tap orientation matters - fuses should be connected in parallel and not in series which could burn the bottom fuse in the fuse tap.

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So explain like I’m 5 what you mean by the fuse in parallel vs series, please. I have the same fuse pigtails and have used these before so I have some for this job. You tapped the heated steering wheel fuse?
 
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Jeka

Jeka

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So explain like I’m 5 what you mean by the fuse in parallel vs series, please. I have the same fuse pigtails and have used these before so I have some for this job. You tapped the heated steering wheel fuse?
Here is a quick diagram:
Diag1.png

A1 and A2 scenarios are for Fuse only (factory stock) - it doesn't matter how you insert it.

B1 and B2 - when you add a Fuse Tap:
B1 - fuses are in parallel and each fuse has only it's own load.
B2 - the bottom fuse has to hold it's own load and whatever you tap into it. If your tapped equipment will be power hungry you can overload the circuit and the bottom fuse will blow.
 

Artie

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Here is a quick diagram:
View attachment 26410

A1 and A2 scenarios are for Fuse only (factory stock) - it doesn't matter how you insert it.

B1 and B2 - when you add a Fuse Tap:
B1 - fuses are in parallel and each fuse has only it's own load.
B2 - the bottom fuse has to hold it's own load and whatever you tap into it. If your tapped equipment will be power hungry you can overload the circuit and the bottom fuse will blow.
Well, I did not know that orientation mattered when using the fuse pigtail thing... so how would one know what direction the flow is going?
 
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Jeka

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Well, I did not know that orientation mattered when using the fuse pigtail thing... so how would one know what direction the flow is going?
The best way to find out, is to take off the fuse and check both connections in the fuse box with voltmeter for DC power. One which has 12 volt is a source*, second with no power is destination.

*you might need to turn on car full accessory power to power some fuses.

Another way to check: insert a fuse tap with just upper fuse installed, no bottom fuse - if they are in parallel your tapped accessory (dashcam, or whatever you connected) should have power.
 
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Artie

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The best way to find out, is to take off the fuse and check both connections in the fuse box with voltmeter for DC power. One which has 12 volt is a source*, second with no power is destination.

*you might need to turn on car full accessory power to power some fuses.

Another way to check: insert a fuse tap with just upper fuse installed, no bottom fuse - if they are in parallel your tapped accessory (dashcam, or whatever you connected) should have power.
This sounds easy enough, thanks!
 

Artie

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Here is mine setup. Main concern was high current for steering wheel heater and dash cam battery pack which charges at 9A and came with 20A fuse (20A + 20A). Because of the shape of fuse box I couldn't push the tap all the way down. Cannot say the connection was loose or flimsy, but just not full enough - which bothered me for some time. Finally I took the panels off and checked connections when both were at full power - temperature didn't go above 47C (ambient was ~17C). Considering I will use steering wheel heater mostly in winter - that should be good. Keep in mind that fuse tap orientation matters - fuses should be connected in parallel and not in series which could burn the bottom fuse in the fuse tap.

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So it’s been some time, how has this been working for you? Any connectivity issues?
 
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