Fuse to tap dashcam?

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Artie

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Thanks for the video, looks pretty straight forward. I’m installing a dash cam so I’ll see what I can find that will work with it.

So far it’s been working perfectly fine.
Thanks for the update, if I can’t find a mirror tap wire I’ll go the route you went.
 

julijn

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Here is mine setup. Main concern was high current for steering wheel heater and dash cam battery pack which charges at 9A and came with 20A fuse (20A + 20A). Because of the shape of fuse box I couldn't push the tap all the way down. Cannot say the connection was loose or flimsy, but just not full enough - which bothered me for some time. Finally I took the panels off and checked connections when both were at full power - temperature didn't go above 47C (ambient was ~17C). Considering I will use steering wheel heater mostly in winter - that should be good. Keep in mind that fuse tap orientation matters - fuses should be connected in parallel and not in series which could burn the bottom fuse in the fuse tap.

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did you notice in the manual the 6 and 7 are not used (spare) slots....looks like there is a fuse in that slot...why did you not use that spare???in trying to figure out how im going to wire my headrest monitors
 

Artie

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did you notice in the manual the 6 and 7 are not used (spare) slots....looks like there is a fuse in that slot...why did you not use that spare???in trying to figure out how im going to wire my headrest monitors
I thought those are extra spare fuses and the slot they occupy has no power ran to it.
 

edizzle

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i am going to try to get the power from the overhead "console" here the sunroof controls, map lights, etc. are. it will be nothing to get the wire from my dash cam to the cavity behind, literally 6-8 inches. what i need is a compact 12v to 5v power converter. my dash cam is powered wth a micro usb cable so it needs 5v. thinking of disassembling a cigarette outlet phone charger and taking the electronics out, enclosing in some type of plastic case and finding a place to hide it back there. i am definitely not concerned with current draw as it is very small. the sunroof at minimum should be switched power which would be good. i might try to look at it this weekend
 

julijn

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did you notice in the manual the 6 and 7 are not used (spare) slots....looks like there is a fuse in that slot...why did you not use that spare???in trying to figure out how im going to wire my headrest monitors the even have a connection to fit in the fuse panel.....
I thought those are extra spare fuses and the slot they occupy has no power ran to it.
other say not used empty 6and 7 say not used spare 20 amp...
 

marlinpruett

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i am going to try to get the power from the overhead "console" here the sunroof controls, map lights, etc. are. it will be nothing to get the wire from my dash cam to the cavity behind, literally 6-8 inches. what i need is a compact 12v to 5v power converter. my dash cam is powered wth a micro usb cable so it needs 5v. thinking of disassembling a cigarette outlet phone charger and taking the electronics out, enclosing in some type of plastic case and finding a place to hide it back there. i am definitely not concerned with current draw as it is very small. the sunroof at minimum should be switched power which would be good. i might try to look at it this weekend


I used one of these....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Step-d...d703af59b:m:m1J6RByRhiIV3BBTUX_Y7Hg:rk:1:pf:0
 

Artie

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That looks cool but would it fit in that compartment behind the mirror? I like the tapping the wire behind the mirror idea but my camera doesn’t run 12v either. I’d rather do the work myself because in the past I’ve hired this out and it was a hatchet job but it was on a company car and I could expense it. On my personal ride I won’t handle less than the best and sometimes that means doing it yourself.
 

edizzle

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That looks cool but would it fit in that compartment behind the mirror? I like the tapping the wire behind the mirror idea but my camera doesn’t run 12v either. I’d rather do the work myself because in the past I’ve hired this out and it was a hatchet job but it was on a company car and I could expense it. On my personal ride I won’t handle less than the best and sometimes that means doing it yourself.
i didnt think there was power in the mirror. it doesnt have a power wire going to it like others. if it does, it is run down the mounting neck.

if so, this would be perfect, i would cut the end off of a usb cable, drill a small hole to get usb wire from camera to inside mirror, make necessary splices to power converter and be done. i think the wire is going to have to go to the overhead console, which theoretically could be just as easy.
 

edizzle

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actually i think i like it in the overhead console regardless shouldnt have to cut or drill anything
 
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