08navigator
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This is the company I called. They are making the expedition hose replacement now and plan to have it released "before the hot season" as they put it.
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Rear a/c leak
- Thread starter 08navigator
- Start date
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08navigator
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Do you know where the dryer is located? The only thing I can find is a new tube and this desecant bag which I assume goes in the tube. I'm guessing I don't need a new tube just the desecant bag. Is it something I can get to without pulling the radiator if it indeed is attached to it?
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08navigator
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I found this. Looks like it's attached to the condenser which is in front of the radiator correct? If that's the case I think I see it on the driver side and I should be able to easily access it from under the car. View attachment 2010-04-11_225553_drier.pdf
Here's the cartridges I found on rockauto
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...ng,a/c+receiver+drier+desiccant+element,16858
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Here's the cartridges I found on rockauto
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...ng,a/c+receiver+drier+desiccant+element,16858
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08navigator
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The issue with that in my case is that this has been completely de-pressured with a hole in the line near the rear wheel all winter long. I definitely have some water in my system. You may have been ok if you opened and closed it up fast enough.
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08navigator
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I won't be pressuring the line up with air. I'll be pulling an extended vacuum on the system, seeing if it holds, if so I will Purge the charge line of air then charge the system. If it leaks I will have the vacuum pump and manifold to charge it again when I fix the leak.
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08navigator
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Do you have a video showing this? My lack of knowledge on this subject is making this procedure slightly hard to understand. Thanks TobyU!
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Motorcity muscle
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My point was be safe, do it once and correctly. Acid is not good in any closed system. Who pissed in your corn flakes.
A residential commercial HVAC Tech with more than likely a 608 certification coming in to give comments which are inaccurate or not the standard operating procedure for automotive air condition system which is mostly a 609 certification.
I doubt you would be able to find a shop that even carries nitrogen for AC leak testing. Where as almost every HVAC commercial or residential Tech has it in their van.
It's just not done in the automotive field. Nor is there an issue with acid and compressors.
It's not about doing it right or doing it wrong. The point is using nitrogen and talking about acid in a compressor is not right when you're discussing automotive air conditioning systems.
You also won't find anybody talking about superheat in the automotive AC world. Nor will they discuss temperature drop. The only thing about temp that will ever be discussed and usually only in training or Theory discussions will be ambient temperature and inside center duct temperature with fan on high in recirc position at 1500 RPMs.
Sorry, I don't. I absolutely despise YouTube videos because I just can't scroll through them fast enough to get to the good stuff. People moving their camper around I'm taking forever to actually show you something and often not even actually showing but the time of the video is, just drives me nuts.
If you're referring to sucking in the oil oh, I just mean that once you have the vacuum pump hooked up to your Centre manifold yellow hose port and the red and the blue low and high side lines hooked to the low and high side and the valves open to evacuate the system.
All you have to do is shut off your manifold valves and then unscrew one of them from the manifold. If you unscrew the low side hose from the manifold gauge and is still hooked to the low side port it will start sucking in air.
You can stick this hose-end into your container of oil and then crack open your other side valve and turn on your pump so it will suck in until the proper amount has gone in.
You just want to hook the hose back up to the manifold set but leave the side you put the oil in closed for a few more minutes so it doesn't try to suck any oil back out when you open the valve.
08navigator
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Ok I understand what you mean. Instead of going that route I found this.
https://m.autozone.com/a-c-charging...-pro-46-pag-oil-charge-with-ice-32/424620_0_0
It's 1oz of pag oil, 1oz of r134a and 1oz of some other ice additive they use. I'll blast this in and then charge the system. Looks like I need 55oz. I bought 5 12oz r134a cans. I'll do my best to only put 6oz of that last can into the system.
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That is the pressurized can of PAG46 I mentioned earlier. It's the most common way to add oil.
Do it with can upside down.
08navigator
Full Access Members
Great! Hopefully 1oz is enough. Anyway to tell if its not besides the system not working? Will the compressor be loud?
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You'd be better off to out 2 oz in. You will not be able to tell by operation.
A system could have way too little and still will cool fine and you won't hear any difference in compressor. Life will be shortened though and it will get hotter.
In a shorter period of time the pressure will become irregular and on a gauge you will see the needle bounce and not be steady with piston and cylinder weakness/damage.
You could put 5 oz in there and not hurt a thing...so put two for the extra 7.00.
When a high side line leaks it leaks a lot more oil out and even more if it splits suddenly than if a low side leaks. (generalization but usually the case)
A system could have way too little and still will cool fine and you won't hear any difference in compressor. Life will be shortened though and it will get hotter.
In a shorter period of time the pressure will become irregular and on a gauge you will see the needle bounce and not be steady with piston and cylinder weakness/damage.
You could put 5 oz in there and not hurt a thing...so put two for the extra 7.00.
When a high side line leaks it leaks a lot more oil out and even more if it splits suddenly than if a low side leaks. (generalization but usually the case)
08navigator
Full Access Members
Ok. I'll grab another can of it. The r134a I bought is straight refrigerant with no stop leak or any Bs. Most of the stuff I saw had stop leak in it. It said it was for the deals though so I guess it's more like high mileage oil that will swell the seals.
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Correct. All of the AC stop leak that comes with the refrigerant is just a seal conditioner and rarely, rarely, rarely has any effect at all. It's just a rip-off and increases the price of a can of refrigerant immensely.
Be careful who you buy your 134a also. Some of the parts stores up to $15 a can in the peak summertime the last 2 years just because they could. I don't ever buy those big cans with the hose already on there. It's also a ripoff. Walmart has finally lowered their prices in this area Thanks To Rural King coming in and dropping the price to record lows for R134a.
For the past several years I can always get it for no more than 4.99 a can and often it will come on sale and the spring or summer at 3 99 per can. Walmart has finally lowered theirs to decently competitive prices though.
223 seasons ago it was 697 at Walmart and 1499 at the local 3 part stores. I have a real issue with part stores doing that and it's become a trend in the past seven or eight years or it didn't really happen that way previously.
They intentionally crank their profit margin out the roof on belated an add-on items and almost everything in their store other than hard parts. On hard parts , they are basically the exact same price as everyone else with most of them being a complete rip-off and what they should be today. Starters and alternator prices are an absolute joke.
Look at how everything else electronic has come down in price and starters alternators really haven't changed that much in technology and so many of them are many many years into the designicores so it's not like there's any scarcity of parts for the rebuit ones.
They just crank up the price because they can because it's such an expensive repair to go to a shop and get one replaced they can sell you the part for $129 and you put it on yourself and you think you're getting an overall good deal on the repair.
There are no great deals on starters and alternators from China because I guess shipping with the weight. If you apply the normal logic and what has happened to almost everything else in our economy to alternators and starters, we should be getting a standard alternator starter for let's say a 97 to 2005 Ford for under 40 bucks shipped to our door off eBay.
Whereas other things like brake pads and especially tie rods and sway bar links and lots of those items we get dirt cheap and even some of the parts stores house brands have come way down. I bought an upper ball joint for I think 8.95 at a O'Reilly Auto Parts a while back with a lifetime warranty. I probably could have ordered it and had it shipped to my door for 6.95 - 7.95 but it was still a great deal for the part.
Be careful who you buy your 134a also. Some of the parts stores up to $15 a can in the peak summertime the last 2 years just because they could. I don't ever buy those big cans with the hose already on there. It's also a ripoff. Walmart has finally lowered their prices in this area Thanks To Rural King coming in and dropping the price to record lows for R134a.
For the past several years I can always get it for no more than 4.99 a can and often it will come on sale and the spring or summer at 3 99 per can. Walmart has finally lowered theirs to decently competitive prices though.
223 seasons ago it was 697 at Walmart and 1499 at the local 3 part stores. I have a real issue with part stores doing that and it's become a trend in the past seven or eight years or it didn't really happen that way previously.
They intentionally crank their profit margin out the roof on belated an add-on items and almost everything in their store other than hard parts. On hard parts , they are basically the exact same price as everyone else with most of them being a complete rip-off and what they should be today. Starters and alternator prices are an absolute joke.
Look at how everything else electronic has come down in price and starters alternators really haven't changed that much in technology and so many of them are many many years into the designicores so it's not like there's any scarcity of parts for the rebuit ones.
They just crank up the price because they can because it's such an expensive repair to go to a shop and get one replaced they can sell you the part for $129 and you put it on yourself and you think you're getting an overall good deal on the repair.
There are no great deals on starters and alternators from China because I guess shipping with the weight. If you apply the normal logic and what has happened to almost everything else in our economy to alternators and starters, we should be getting a standard alternator starter for let's say a 97 to 2005 Ford for under 40 bucks shipped to our door off eBay.
Whereas other things like brake pads and especially tie rods and sway bar links and lots of those items we get dirt cheap and even some of the parts stores house brands have come way down. I bought an upper ball joint for I think 8.95 at a O'Reilly Auto Parts a while back with a lifetime warranty. I probably could have ordered it and had it shipped to my door for 6.95 - 7.95 but it was still a great deal for the part.
gixer2000
Retrofit or Bust
Don't buy anything with stop leak! If the system ever gets opened for repair again the stop leak starts to harden up once the system is open to the atmosphere. Its known for blocking expansion valves, condenser coils and even microchannel evap coils.
08navigator
Full Access Members
I bought the supertech r134a 12oz cans for $4.88 each. No other additives in the cans. I'm not a fan of stop leaks and usually not high mileage oils etc. Although I am switching from Pennzoil platinum full synthetic 5w30 to their high mileage version of the same oil in the navigator since I have a leaking valve cover on the passenger side and the front cover has leak. Both are very slow leaks. I only add maybe 1/2quart probably less between my 5k mile oil changes.
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08navigator
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I'm probably going to get a bottle of pag46 instead of another pressurized can since ill need some to rub on the seals and on the new compression fittings gaskets. I'll grab some with dye in it.
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I wouldn't use the dye one. The bottle that is totally clear PAG46 is what I use.
The seal conditioner ones don't do this and won't hurt anything and in almost every instance don't do anything for leaks either so I agree don't use them , but they won't cause problems.
NOW, the expensive stop leaks that talk about sealing holes in evaps and stuff like that WILL CLOG UP EVERYTHING!
DO NOT USE! Most have a rubbery crap that will plug orifice tubes and expansion valves.
EXCEPTION is Red Angel stop leak. Comes in pressurized can with clear tube that kinda sucks and a 2 oz bottle of red liquid. 34.99 each.
It WORKS! Will not clog anything up either. Its more of an oil lubricant but it will slow down almost all but big bag (wolf- had to) leaks.
I have had it only not work..in 1-2 vehicles. Have had EXCELLENT results a lot more times.
Makes a two week leak a 3 month leak and a seasonal charge leak go totally away.
