Rear a/c leak

[08navigator]

I don't see where its so close to a bend that you couldn't put a compression fitting in there. You would have to work the line out away from frame some and in worse case cut it to make area more accessible and add new line to meet at places where it is accessible.
I see you are going the replacement approach. You don't have to do the whole thing or any more than what you need to to put the connections in good to get to areas.

A cheap old brass compression fitting will work but the better ones are "better".

It is the high side liquid line so NO sealers or rubber and clamps will work.
I have tried it all.
JB weld only slightly slows it, rubber with pressure usually still leaks too much. You are talking about 225-300 PSI .
You CAN use rubber if you get AC pressure line which is also barrier hose but without barbed ends to clamp it too with high quality refrigeration clamps....the line will blow off even if you double or triple clamp it.
With rubber you could cut off at convenient to get to place and get a compression fitting that you could screw another adapter and then a barbed male end into that so you would have a barbed end connected to your existing line but that makes more connections than just putting in some aluminum tubing in two places like you are doing.


PAG 46 is correct as mentioned and I can't swear if one with a rear ac only holds 3-3.5 oz but I would add 1-1.5 oz. Do you have injector or are you going to use a pressurized store bought can or try to get it into the line as you do the work?

Pump it down for at least 30-45 mins when done. Should have gauge set hooked to both low and high sides and both gauge valve open to pump down both sides.

You can then close valves and tun off pump and see it it holds vacuum bur I get too impatient for that.
You will see a leak when you charge it.

I like to charge the first can in as a liquid upside down even if I have to go in low side like normal, just with compressor off. A big system pumped down like that should take a can with no help from compressor to suck it in.
Then wait a 5-6 mins while you are looking for obvious leaks at the splices before starting second can upright gas and starting engine and turning on compressor to charge up rest of way.
I would expect 3-4 cans but I don't remember what year were are taking about.

Tapatalk is doing something odd with this thread. I didn't see this post earlier and now it has separated some of your replies into a separate thread with the same title. Weird. Anyway, thanks for the info! The location of the original hole was about the worst possible spot. It could not be bent out and you could not in anyway get a compression fitting in that tight spot. I bought some kwool(fire blanket insulation) to cover everything else in the area before attempting brazing but it just wouldn't take. I cut the line in Easy to get compression fittings on places so hopefully this works out.

If I can't fix the AC we will probably be dumping this thing. I have three young kids and the Midwest sucks ass in the summer with humidity. I may block off the rear if it comes to that and see how that works out. It's just not worth spending a bunch fixing something like this on an older suv(2008 navigator 136k miles).

I'm buying a vacuum pump and ac manifold off Amazon. I plan to pull a vacuum for half an hour, close the high and low sides and see if it holds. If it holds I'll pull vacuum again for another hour I think to make sure all of the water is out of there and then charge it. So I should add a bit of pag oil to the hose with some dye, clip the center hose onto the manifold and charge the first can upside down with the AC compressor off? I know the vacuum will pull the 134 in but will it get the whole can in there with it off? Also, dont I want the compressor on to pressurize that high pressure line to check for leaks?

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[08navigator]

The A/C line I had leaking was priced at about $400, just for the lines. Naturally they came in a pair and couldn't be separated. I did not price them installed. The shop that did the repair but the line and spliced a new piece in place. What kind of line or where they cut I do not know but where there is a will there is a way. Cut where you can, splice in matching line, close the openings and fill with refrigerant. That has been years ago and still cools like a champ. Cost was $65, I think.

But since I have bragged on it there will probably be a need to recharge it now.

Man I hope this is the case with mine. I'm using two compression fittings and they have good reviews so here's to hoping

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[08navigator]

Here's the vacuum pump/manifold I bought

XtremepowerUS 3CFM or 4CFM Air Vacuum Pump HVAC A/C Refrigeration Kit AC Manifold Gauge Set (3CFM 1/4HP Air Vacuum Pump) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SZ4QFW0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_udFCCb2YAFK50

And the new line I'm using for the AC
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-65330

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[08navigator]

Also, the sticker in the engine bay says front ac 1.64oz and rear is 2.1oz or something in that neighborhood. I don't know why they separated it like that. I guess it you block off the rear then you know how much to add to the front.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[TobyU]

You're not going to be able to get much oil in unless you buy a pressurized can unless you get a special device called an injector. I got one from Napa that you just fill without up to 2 oz of oil and then hook it and line between your refrigerant can and your gauges or the low side or whatever side you want to put it in and inject it in with the pressure from the refrigerant.
You can also cheat a little bit and hook the low side refrigerant gauge hose to the low side or even maybe try the high side but before you hook your last fitting together you could use some suction from the vacuum pump or from your mouth or whatever to suck the oil out of the can and into the end of the line that you haven't sealed up yet. As long as you're going to pump it back down afterwards at to let the moisture boil off it wouldn't matter.
When a large system like that is empty and pump down usually almost a full can or a full can we'll go in on its own without needing to have the compressor running. I always put the initial can in as a liquid but then wait 5 or 6 minutes after it stops going in or after it's in before you kick on the compressor. The rule is compressors can't pump liquids because it will damage things but when you're talkin so far away from the compressor it's kind of hard to get much liquid back to it.
So I let whatever the can will push in by itself upside down as a liquid go in first then flip it up right and wait 3 to 4 minutes then I start the vehicle and left compressor start cycling. It will click on and off quickly due to the pressure switch but will also suck the last bit of the refrigerant out of that can quickly. Then you move on to the other cans all being installed upright as a gas. I also like to shake them quite firmly as I install. And i do invert the cans for about a half a second to a second every 8 or 10 seconds. It's probably just because I learned from Old School Refrigeration guys.
You have to remember there's really no right way to do it. Different books say different things and professional shops some install as a gas and others have they're 30 lb jug of refrigerant inverted on a scale and they install by weight as a liquid or through a machine.
The theory behind the shaking and inverting is that at least the old-school refrigerants had oil in them and you would get a better amount of oil distributed in the system if you did it this way as opposed to just cranking the gas in there. But then again if you're adding oil as a liquid manually that kind of negates this. Lots of variables in AC work. The book learned people don't usually get the best results. The old-school guys that charge to you know what they call beer can cold temperatures usually get the best results. But then the new breed of HVAC techs criticize them as hacks.

 

[TobyU]

The place that does the AC work on things is called Broadway radiator and there are actually a couple of other ones in the area of Dayton Ohio. Suburbs.

 

[08navigator]

You're not going to be able to get much oil in unless you buy a pressurized can unless you get a special device called an injector. I got one from Napa that you just fill without up to 2 oz of oil and then hook it and line between your refrigerant can and your gauges or the low side or whatever side you want to put it in and inject it in with the pressure from the refrigerant.
You can also cheat a little bit and hook the low side refrigerant gauge hose to the low side or even maybe try the high side but before you hook your last fitting together you could use some suction from the vacuum pump or from your mouth or whatever to suck the oil out of the can and into the end of the line that you haven't sealed up yet. As long as you're going to pump it back down afterwards at to let the moisture boil off it wouldn't matter.
When a large system like that is empty and pump down usually almost a full can or a full can we'll go in on its own without needing to have the compressor running. I always put the initial can in as a liquid but then wait 5 or 6 minutes after it stops going in or after it's in before you kick on the compressor. The rule is compressors can't pump liquids because it will damage things but when you're talkin so far away from the compressor it's kind of hard to get much liquid back to it.
So I let whatever the can will push in by itself upside down as a liquid go in first then flip it up right and wait 3 to 4 minutes then I start the vehicle and left compressor start cycling. It will click on and off quickly due to the pressure switch but will also suck the last bit of the refrigerant out of that can quickly. Then you move on to the other cans all being installed upright as a gas. I also like to shake them quite firmly as I install. And i do invert the cans for about a half a second to a second every 8 or 10 seconds. It's probably just because I learned from Old School Refrigeration guys.
You have to remember there's really no right way to do it. Different books say different things and professional shops some install as a gas and others have they're 30 lb jug of refrigerant inverted on a scale and they install by weight as a liquid or through a machine.
The theory behind the shaking and inverting is that at least the old-school refrigerants had oil in them and you would get a better amount of oil distributed in the system if you did it this way as opposed to just cranking the gas in there. But then again if you're adding oil as a liquid manually that kind of negates this. Lots of variables in AC work. The book learned people don't usually get the best results. The old-school guys that charge to you know what they call beer can cold temperatures usually get the best results. But then the new breed of HVAC techs criticize them as hacks.

If I dump oil in the ass end of the charge line and then blast a can of r134a into it it'll have to be pulled into the system right? Or am I missing something? I'm saying pull the yellow line off the manifold and dump pag oil in there. Then reconnect it to the manifold so the refrigerant has to flow past it.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[gixer2000]

If I dump oil in the ass end of the charge line and then blast a can of r134a into it it'll have to be pulled into the system right? Or am I missing something? I'm saying pull the yellow line off the manifold and dump pag oil in there. Then reconnect it to the manifold so the refrigerant has to flow past it.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

You can pour the oil in anywhere. If the compressor was removed or replaced it would be mandatory to add it there but since your just repairing a leaking line. Pour it right in the line you have open.

 

[TobyU]

Yes. But often it's harder than expected to get oil in the yellow ac line and some gauge sets have schrader valves everywhere but you can unscrew one and fill manifold is probably best as you can prob get over an ounce in the manifold body.
You will have to crack one can open and push the oil in then slowly open and pump it down. You can't pump it down and then hook a hose to it that has oil in in and air.
When you pump it down it is all sealed and you are pumping down manifold body hoses etc. Then you hook charge hose to you can... Prob the short auto one and pierce can and let a little 2-3 sec soft flow out to purge air out of charge hose.
Everything you touch gets pumped down or purged of air with refrigerant taking its place.
Others might not be quite that OCD about it and might get adequate results but AC systems since they went to R134a pretty much suck anyways at least way too many of them do so they need all the help they can get. I want low head pressures with 0 extra air in the system.
In the old days with the Asics compressors we didn't even have a vacuum pump. We would just purge 3/4- 1 can through the system in the low side and out the high side by opening in short cracks of the knob so we didn't blow too much oil out of the system.
Worked just fine but huge condensers great compressors r-12 one of the two most glorious chemicals on Earth.... Systems that would put frost and ice on the vents, windshield and lines.
I have seen r-12 low sides of of evaporated coated with ice to twice their diameter!
Got igloo and interdynamics freon cans at Kmart on the end cap every spring for $.88
I couldn't care less about global warming and neither could Dupont. The only reason they went to R134a was because so they can have a new patent. And now they're going to the new stuff once again. It's all about money. When it cost them more to put the stuff in the can and for the can that does to make it. They should be happy to sell it to us for $4-5 a can but no, they want to make a new one and give us crummy air conditioning once again. Technology my ass.

 

[08navigator]

Yes. But often it's harder than expected to get oil in the yellow ac line and some gauge sets have schrader valves everywhere but you can unscrew one and fill manifold is probably best as you can prob get over an ounce in the manifold body.
You will have to crack one can open and push the oil in then slowly open and pump it down. You can't pump it down and then hook a hose to it that has oil in in and air.
When you pump it down it is all sealed and you are pumping down manifold body hoses etc. Then you hook charge hose to you can... Prob the short auto one and pierce can and let a little 2-3 sec soft flow out to purge air out of charge hose.
Everything you touch gets pumped down or purged of air with refrigerant taking its place.
Others might not be quite that OCD about it and might get adequate results but AC systems since they went to R134a pretty much suck anyways at least way too many of them do so they need all the help they can get. I want low head pressures with 0 extra air in the system.
In the old days with the Asics compressors we didn't even have a vacuum pump. We would just purge 3/4- 1 can through the system in the low side and out the high side by opening in short cracks of the knob so we didn't blow too much oil out of the system.
Worked just fine but huge condensers great compressors r-12 one of the two most glorious chemicals on Earth.... Systems that would put frost and ice on the vents, windshield and lines.
I have seen r-12 low sides of of evaporated coated with ice to twice their diameter!
Got igloo and interdynamics freon cans at Kmart on the end cap every spring for $.88
I couldn't care less about global warming and neither could Dupont. The only reason they went to R134a was because so they can have a new patent. And now they're going to the new stuff once again. It's all about money. When it cost them more to put the stuff in the can and for the can that does to make it. They should be happy to sell it to us for $4-5 a can but no, they want to make a new one and give us crummy air conditioning once again. Technology my ass.

Good point. I forgot about purging the line of air before charging. Would it be best/easiest to get a can of 134a with pag oil in it and the rest just normal 134a?

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk