Rear a/c leak

[08navigator]

Thanks for the replies! I think it's the high pressure line since it's the smaller of the two. Not so sure jb weld would hold up. The line is huge and looks like it would require a lot of work to replace it. We do plan to keep the vehicle till end of life (125k miles now) so maybe a new line would be the best option.

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[Motorcity muscle]

Looks like an easy repair if you can get to the area with the torch and not damage the stuff around it. If you could move the pipe out for better access, maybe disconnect one end to be able to move it.

 

[08navigator]

Alright. I attempted this fix the other day. I tried to braze it but since it's above the rear passenger strut and in a very tight spot I could not get it to work. I then tried to cut out the line to fix the hole but due again to it's tight spacing and tons of bends I couldn't get the line out in one piece.

I have purchased a 25ft roll of aluminum tubing(it's actually fuel line) that is 3/8od and roughly the same wall thickness as the original. The plan is to run that to part of the line in the rear and attach it using a doorman compression fitting and run the other end to the section of tubing toward the front and attach it the same way.

I also bought a vacuum kit/gauge manifold that I will be using to pull a vacuum on the system and then charge it. I'm really hoping this works.

I don't know how much Pag oil to add or which type. Does anyone have any idea? Only leak I could find was in the rear line and it had a bunch of green oil around it. I assume it's pag oil and dye.

Also, I'm assuming this new aluminum tubing will be just fine to use since it the same metallurgy and wall thickness but if anyone knows differently please let me know. I do know the ac worked before we bought the car since it was working on the test drive so I at least have that.




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[1955moose]

P46 is the page oil type. As far as how much? It's kinda a guess since your not draining the whole system. 3 to 3 1/2 ounces is for a total empty system. If it was me I think 1 to 1/2 ounces should be a safe bet. Crazy question but why not just bite the bullet and buy a dealer new one? For that matter maybe take a chance on a carefully removed used one? From all the work your putting in with the tubing, why not just go all the way, and know it's done.

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[1955moose]

I hate spell check. I usually go over my post, this time I didn't. It's Pag, not page oil. And I meant 1 to 1 1/2 ounces of oil.

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[TobyU]

I don't see where its so close to a bend that you couldn't put a compression fitting in there. You would have to work the line out away from frame some and in worse case cut it to make area more accessible and add new line to meet at places where it is accessible.
I see you are going the replacement approach. You don't have to do the whole thing or any more than what you need to to put the connections in good to get to areas.

A cheap old brass compression fitting will work but the better ones are "better".

It is the high side liquid line so NO sealers or rubber and clamps will work.
I have tried it all.
JB weld only slightly slows it, rubber with pressure usually still leaks too much. You are talking about 225-300 PSI .
You CAN use rubber if you get AC pressure line which is also barrier hose but without barbed ends to clamp it too with high quality refrigeration clamps....the line will blow off even if you double or triple clamp it.
With rubber you could cut off at convenient to get to place and get a compression fitting that you could screw another adapter and then a barbed male end into that so you would have a barbed end connected to your existing line but that makes more connections than just putting in some aluminum tubing in two places like you are doing.


PAG 46 is correct as mentioned and I can't swear if one with a rear ac only holds 3-3.5 oz but I would add 1-1.5 oz. Do you have injector or are you going to use a pressurized store bought can or try to get it into the line as you do the work?

Pump it down for at least 30-45 mins when done. Should have gauge set hooked to both low and high sides and both gauge valve open to pump down both sides.

You can then close valves and tun off pump and see it it holds vacuum bur I get too impatient for that.
You will see a leak when you charge it.

I like to charge the first can in as a liquid upside down even if I have to go in low side like normal, just with compressor off. A big system pumped down like that should take a can with no help from compressor to suck it in.
Then wait a 5-6 mins while you are looking for obvious leaks at the splices before starting second can upright gas and starting engine and turning on compressor to charge up rest of way.
I would expect 3-4 cans but I don't remember what year were are taking about.

 

[08navigator]

P46 is the page oil type. As far as how much? It's kinda a guess since your not draining the whole system. 3 to 3 1/2 ounces is for a total empty system. If it was me I think 1 to 1/2 ounces should be a safe bet. Crazy question but why not just bite the bullet and buy a dealer new one? For that matter maybe take a chance on a carefully removed used one? From all the work your putting in with the tubing, why not just go all the way, and know it's done.

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I have nothing against buying a new one but I don't think I could get it where it needs to go. In fact I'm pretty sure without lifting the cab off I couldn't and even if I could(it comes in three pieces) I couldn't get the compression fittings(at least it looks like that what they used, hard to tell from pics) tight. At least with the aluminum tubing it's not pre-bent so I can do what I need to get it back there. Also, the roll of tubing is $40 and the new lines are $330 from rock Auto. If I mess up the roll of tubing no big deal but if I screw up the or ones, it's an expensive replacement.

I have read quotes of $1800 from the dealer to replace that line. I assume that's lifting the cab off of the frame since it costs so much.

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[TobyU]

We have a radiator shop locally that does ac and RV ac work. They can do anything like that and NOT at ridiculous dealer parts replacing prices.
They cut a braze up a piece or whatever they need.
He made me a 90 degree barbed on one end and large compression fitting on other end for a bus low side I had for $10. Love the place!

 

[08navigator]

We have a radiator shop locally that does ac and RV ac work. They can do anything like that and NOT at ridiculous dealer parts replacing prices.
They cut a braze up a piece or whatever they need.
He made me a 90 degree barbed on one end and large compression fitting on other end for a bus low side I had for $10. Love the place!

Wow that would be great. Where are you located?

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[jimz]

The A/C line I had leaking was priced at about $400, just for the lines. Naturally they came in a pair and couldn't be separated. I did not price them installed. The shop that did the repair but the line and spliced a new piece in place. What kind of line or where they cut I do not know but where there is a will there is a way. Cut where you can, splice in matching line, close the openings and fill with refrigerant. That has been years ago and still cools like a champ. Cost was $65, I think.

But since I have bragged on it there will probably be a need to recharge it now.