Help adding 7 pin to ‘17 XLT 4x4

[Black]

My 17 has the four pin, and that extra wire. If you look at first picture you can still see the writing on the tag.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Yes all models have the brake controller wire at the 4 pin plug.

He seems to believe the aux. power wire and the reverse lights the last two wires needed for the 7 pin are tucked somewhere behind the drivers wheel well.
Reverse light is not a big deal as that is a simple tap from the tail light but a fused aux. power wire would be a bit more of a pain to run so would be a huge plus if tucked somewhere in the rear.

 

[The6ofus]

mquick5, yep me too. Thanks!

Black, correct! I do not need the reverse wire but it would be ok with me if it’s all there. I definitely need and want the 12v to charge the camper battery.

This is first on my to-do list tomorrow morning, after coffee of course, and I’ll report back here.

 

[The6ofus]

I wish I had better news...

A friend and I spent about two hours trying to locate and trace the wires from the brake controller pigtail towards the back of the vehicle. We were completely unsuccessful finding them coming out of the firewall.

The plug that the dealer said was “without a doubt” for the 7 pin, well it doesn’t appear to be correct. Once I removed the mud flap/splash guard in the drivers rear wheel well I could see a part number on the black thing these wires plugged into. It’s listed as a Fuel Pump Driver Module FL1A-9D370-AA. it does have 7 wires but none that match the colors at the brake controller side of things.

Here’s a better shot of what I thought/was told by dealer/had hoped was the 7 pin wiring.



So, I called it quits and ordered the Curt universal 7 pin and a bracket. My friend had a NIB 7 to 4 pin adapter and I’ll use that for my cargo trailer.

 

[The6ofus]

@theoldwizard1, I did snap a picture of the tag located on the FoMoCo hitch. I have no plans at this time to remotely get close to those towing weights, so whether it’s a 3 or 4 is ok with me.

 

[Black]

I was afraid this would be the outcome. Thanks for taking the time.
Let us know the route you run the power wire.

 

[Yupster Dog]

I wish I had better news...

A friend and I spent about two hours trying to locate and trace the wires from the brake controller pigtail towards the back of the vehicle. We were completely unsuccessful finding them coming out of the firewall.

The plug that the dealer said was “without a doubt” for the 7 pin, well it doesn’t appear to be correct. Once I removed the mud flap/splash guard in the drivers rear wheel well I could see a part number on the black thing these wires plugged into. It’s listed as a Fuel Pump Driver Module FL1A-9D370-AA. it does have 7 wires but none that match the colors at the brake controller side of things.

So, I called it quits and ordered the Curt universal 7 pin and a bracket. My friend had a NIB 7 to 4 pin adapter and I’ll use that for my cargo trailer.

Well that sucks you can't plug and play. good thread for anyone else having same problem.

​

If the aux power wire were tucked some where towards the rear sure would be nice but pretty sure it is not.

This is for a F-150 but it could shine some light on that this elusive aux power wire on the expy too
And here's how they hooked it up.
​

 

[The6ofus]

Thanks for the videos, Yupster Dog.

Reading the diagram for the Curt universal kit I ordered and as long as I truly have power at the OE BC pigtail, all I should have to run is the 12v power, I think. I’m no electrician just a tinkerer.

This is how it will go in my mind...

1) Plug 4 pin from uni harness to OE 4 way

2) Install ground with installed ring at rear of truck

3) Splice OE elec brake wire to uni harness (blue wires) at rear bumper

4) Run single 10 gauge wire (uni harness black) with incl 40 amp relay (and maybe even make it switched power?) to battery for 12v charging

If there are any electrical gurus and this sounds off, please correct me.

Again, that’s if I get positive feedback at the OE controller harness. (Ran out of time today to check) I have all the fuses present in the OE fuse block related to towing, but as goofy as everything else is, I may need to wire as show in the instructions. That requires one more wire and some more splicing. Instructions are located at https://assets.curtmfg.com/masterlibrary/57186/installsheet/CME_57186_INS.pdf

The Curt harness is due to arrive Thursday evening and hoping to install Friday morning to pickup my camper from warranty work at the dealer that afternoon. I’ll post how it goes.

 

[Black]

Granted you already have an after market brake controller but for for like $40 more you could buy the Factory brake controller to fit flush in the dash and buy the 4 and 7 pin connnector that I linked earlier.
The only wires, you would need to run is the Aux. power, and the reverse wire.
You would also have all your gain and controller readouts displayed on your dash.
Would be a far cleaner and easier install for $40 more. Granted you would need to return the Curt harness you ordered.
Heck dependent upon your brake controller could likely sell it and in the end not cost you more.

But I also hate wiring and want as few taps or extra wires ran as possible.

 

[The6ofus]

Thanks Black! I’m short on time now and appreciate it. I agree it would be a cleaner install and less hassle when switching trailers and nice to see the info in the dash.

The short on time bit involves my RV dealer. It’s a long story that I’d rather not muddy this thread with.

 

[Mad Oshea]

UHall will do it in 5 seconds for the price of the connector.

 

[The6ofus]

UHall will do it in 5 seconds for the price of the connector.

If that were true at my local U-Haul I’d be all over it. Actually, that goes for just about every shop near me. Even our “15 minute” Jiffy Lube takes closer to 45 minutes for an oil change.

 

[adamsdaddy]

1. You need the pigtail to connect your brake controller to the plug that's behind the dash, to the right of the steering wheel
2: Go to Walmart and buy the combination 7 pin / 4 pin so you have both without needing an adapter
3. If you want 12 V to the trailer then you’ll need to run a wire from the Orange wire (harness under hood) back to the 7 pin plug

I have a 2016 XLT and I cut off the 4 pin mount and then used metal tap screws to mount the 7/4 pin plug. I also ran a 12 V line that I wrapped in plastic wire wrap protector under the Expy. Using zip ties. If you search my postings you’ll see pictures and instructions. I used EZ tap to tap into the Orange wire. The Orange is specifically for the 12 V to the trailer at 20 or 30 amps.

 

[adamsdaddy]

https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/4-prong-to-7-prong.32359/page-3#post-267183

 

[adamsdaddy]

https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/2016-expedition-brake-controller-wiring.32259/

 

[The6ofus]

1. You need the pigtail to connect your brake controller to the plug that's behind the dash, to the right of the steering wheel
2: Go to Walmart and buy the combination 7 pin / 4 pin so you have both without needing an adapter
3. If you want 12 V to the trailer then you’ll need to run a wire from the Orange wire (harness under hood) back to the 7 pin plug

I have a 2016 XLT and I cut off the 4 pin mount and then used metal tap screws to mount the 7/4 pin plug. I also ran a 12 V line that I wrapped in plastic wire wrap protector under the Expy. Using zip ties. If you search my postings you’ll see pictures and instructions. I used EZ tap to tap into the Orange wire. The Orange is specifically for the 12 V to the trailer at 20 or 30 amps.

Thank you!!! I wish those would’ve popped up when I searched several days ago. Probably my keywords sucked.

So tapping the orange wire avoids running the 12v direct off of the battery, correct? I have all fuses in place in my box. I checked all of them and confirmed the locations using my owners manual.

I too have the Prodigy controller and really liked it in my Explorer. The harness to connect that to OE trailer brake wires arrived today. I already pulled that harness from behind the dash.

The 7 pin I ordered can be returned to Amazon. I’ll check my local Walmart for the dual output. Do you recall what gauge wire you used? Did you pin it like mentioned in one of your threads or just tap it?

 

[The6ofus]

So this one is in stock at my store according to Walmart. It’s considerably less expensive than the one I ordered and no adapter needed when towing a 4 pin. The pics sucked there, so here’s the link.

http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.com/products/vehicle-wiring-connectors/7-rv-blade/47185.html

 

[The6ofus]

I just bumped into this video. Although it’s on a ‘13 F-150 scroll to 6:10 for a possible 12v near the rear bumper.


I was so focused on finding the elusive plug that I didn’t dig into the harness. I’ll look at this in the morning.

 

[intense98neon]

I just did this last summer on our 2017 EL. There is no reverse, or 12v positive wire at the back if you do not have the factory 7 pin towing package. I just went with the brake wire, and the other 4 pins. I bought a new 7 pin connector, and wired up the brake, and the 4 pin connector to it. I did add the factory brake controller, and activated it in FORSCAN myself, it was a piece of cake if you have the OBD2 adapter, and a laptop.

 

[The6ofus]

Ran to Walmart and Oreilly Auto to grab everything I should need for tomorrow morning. The kit I ordered from Amazon will go back tomorrow.

I did not have time to search for this red wire near the back bumper but from the sounds of it, it won’t be there anyway.

I’ll see if I can locate the orange wire in the engine compartment.

 

[adamsdaddy]

If you have an iPhone I could FT with you and show you where everything is located Friday night. I’d just need to swap cars with the wife. PM me tonight if needed.