Transmission Fluid Change?

[Hoos95]

I’m coming up on 350,000 miles and was curious about changing the transmission fluid, since it seems pretty difficult to get to and “not supposed to be changed,” but assuming it should be done.

Also, I am experiencing some transmissions issues:

1) shudder when accelerating uphill or around 40-55mph - similar feeling as if you’re driving over those painted lines before toll booths or driving on those warning divots on the shoulder of highways.

- possible this can be fixed with new plugs (SP546) and new coils: replacing them this weekend. I will update this if the plugs/coils fix.

2) slipping/creaking sound occasionally when accelerating.

Also, if I were to change the transmission fluid, filter, etc. I’d prefer to do it myself since I’m a DIYer, but couldn’t find any good detailed instructions or pictures on how to do it and how many quarts would be needed.

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[Vancouver Bob]

Not sure if this will be helpful, since I've got a 2003, but I changed my transmission fluid a year or so ago and found the instructions listed here very helpful...

https://sites.google.com/site/fordf150p0171p0174fix/4r70w-fluid-change-procedures

And here's the link to the page where I started documenting my experience...

https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/2003-expedition-face-lift-begins.31657/page-44#post-280214

 

[99WhiteC5Coupe]

I’m coming up on 350,000 miles and was curious about changing the transmission fluid, since it seems pretty difficult to get to and “not supposed to be changed,” but assuming it should be done.

Also, I am experiencing some transmissions issues:

1) shudder when accelerating uphill or around 40-55mph - similar feeling as if you’re driving over those painted lines before toll booths or driving on those warning divots on the shoulder of highways.

- possible this can be fixed with new plugs (SP546) and new coils: replacing them this weekend. I will update this if the plugs/coils fix.

2) slipping/creaking sound occasionally when accelerating.

Also, if I were to change the transmission fluid, filter, etc. I’d prefer to do it myself since I’m a DIYer, but couldn’t find any good detailed instructions or pictures on how to do it and how many quarts would be needed.

Thanks in advance for the help!

How did you determine that the transmission fluid is, “not supposed to be changed”?

 

[Black]

350,000 miles you are rolling the dice either way. I’d be inclined to just leave it with that mileage.
I am presuming you are putting money aside for a rebuild/replacement?

 

[MuddySpokes]

While not having direct knowledge with this tranny . . .

I had read several comments that trannies have a high probability of failing shortly after a high mileage lube change. Going theory is that the fresh lube cleans a lot of the built-up stuff which in turn clogs the filter. Recommendation to avoid this is to at least change the filter shortly after the lube change, but do not remember whether 'shortly' is something like 500 miles, or 5,000, miles, or . . .

 

[Hoos95]

I think the best right now is to not mess with the transmission oil, and if it fails it fails.

But are there any other recommendations to fix the 2 issues I’m having?

 

[mjp2]

While not having direct knowledge with this tranny . . .

I had read several comments that trannies have a high probability of failing shortly after a high mileage lube change. Going theory is that the fresh lube cleans a lot of the built-up stuff which in turn clogs the filter. Recommendation to avoid this is to at least change the filter shortly after the lube change, but do not remember whether 'shortly' is something like 500 miles, or 5,000, miles, or . . .

That applies to the fluid flush that a dealer would do. They push fluid through the system which could dislodge something and gum up the works.

A simple pan drop, screen replacement, and refill shouldn't have any ill effects. It won't replace all the fluid in the system but at least a decent percentage of what gets mixed in will be fresh and not broken down.

 

[Black]

That applies to the fluid flush that a dealer would do. They push fluid through the system which could dislodge something and gum up the works.

A simple pan drop, screen replacement, and refill shouldn't have any ill effects. It won't replace all the fluid in the system but at least a decent percentage of what gets mixed in will be fresh and not broken down.

Under lower mileage circumstances this is generally the case.
But at 350k I would not want to introduce any new sorts of detergents into the system at all.

 

[1955moose]

If you don't know the history of the transmission as far as services, your gambling. Especially with the rumble strip effect that is so common on 6r75/80 tranny's. I'm with the others, your well beyond that vehicles life span, consider moving on to another vehicle. It's not an old Victorian house that goes up in value.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[TobyU]

Most all these comments are spot on and as mentioned....not an exact science with high mile original fluid.

The flush machines are most dangerous in this situation and I stay away form them on everything.
You won't have a converter plug drain on a newer one so you will only get half or so out from a pan drop which might be a good thing.
Often when new more slippery (fiction modified) fluid in introduced with no thickening and grit to keep the clutches together, they start slipping. This is why thes old car dealer trick was to put sawdust in a slipping trans. Friction and cohesion.
I don't think the issue is as much clogging the filter. I have had clogged filters and the clutches and trans didn't slip It held 1st or 2nd too long and didn't want to shift unless tou let off and then sometimes not...it would surge up and down before shifting
Changed filter and never a slip problem later and raced that car up and down the roads a lot.

I would do a pan drop and filter change and then do it again in 6 month to a year or 6000-10K miles.

You could pump old out if really dark by popping off line at radiator and pouring fresh in as it pumps out until it gets clear and then change pan and filter.

You could just buy the tube of Dr, Fixit Instant shudder fix and add it.
You are getting converter shudder from old fluid.

I would change it and if it fails...get a used one from junk yard and swap it out.

 

[TobyU]

BTW, don't listed to ANY shop or dealer unless they tell you it is risky.
All they want is the money for the service and they ABSOLUTELY do not care it it goes out next week.
They will tell you if it goes out after a flush....it was going out anyway....Yes...but maybe in 25k miles.
They will even want to fix it for you!

********!!!

 

[lbv150]

350,000??? Is that correct? Why bother at this point gezz should have at least been done 250,000 miles ago. Another reason I don't buy used vehicles....

 

[Gregg Eshelman]

I've been trying to find an aftermarket trans dipstick for these, with the bottom end that screws into the transmission in place of the stubby dipstick cap. All I've been able to find are aftermarket dipsticks with a couple of O-rings on the bottom end of the tube.

I don't have a way to lift the truck up level, nor do I relish the idea of pumping trans fluid up and over into a small hole - for which I'd have to buy a pump, nor working with flammable trans fluid and my hand near a hot catalytic converter with the engine running while I'm under it. Feck that noise. I'll happily spend $ on an aftermarket dipstick. Might even install a drain plug in the trans pan.

I'd like to drop the pan to change the filter and whatever % of the fluid comes out that way. Then I'd put in a bottle of Lucas along with the new fluid. At 160K+ my 07 is getting just a little jerky sometimes once in a while on shifts. I've always had good results with the Lucas additive. Far as I've been able to find, the truck has never had the trans fluid changed.

My 97 Taurus has 92K when I bought it and it would SLAM into first when taking off from a stop. One fluid and filter change with one bottle of Lucas and it immediately improved, then over the course of several days use it quit slam shifting completely and has been fine since, now with over 108K miles. ('Course at 93K the engine pan gasket gave up, that was not a fun job but at least it was possible with only disconnecting the exhaust.)

 

[TobyU]

350,000??? Is that correct? Why bother at this point gezz should have at least been done 250,000 miles ago. Another reason I don't buy used vehicles....

I assume there must be some peace of mind to have a newer vehicle that's under warranty. That is as long as they don't try to weasel out of the warranty for something breaks but usually nothing breaks and you're good to go with newer cars like that. I however I'm not willing to pay that much for the peace of mind.
I bought a clean 2000 Expedition with 190,000 miles on it and 2012. Now has 257 and the only thing we were placed on it is the alternator and one upper ball joint. It was super clean and rust free I got it very cheaply at $2,000 back then. I put almost nothing in it and it's still worth about $900.
If the transmission would have gone out I simply would have bought a used one off of Facebook, Craigslist for a salvage yard and swapped it. If you don't do the work yourself you can pay someone to swap it. Still wouldn't have had over eight or nine hundred dollars in the repair even if I had to pay someone to swap the trans. This seems like the only way to go to me.
I will never pay for a new car. Even if I won the vulgar Lottery of 1.3 billion dollars and was more than set for life, I still would not buy new. I would go buy a nine month old car that someone decided they wanted something else so they can lose the 20 or 30% willingly because they know they change their mind.
I absolutely can't stand over spend I just won't do it. We all have our Hang-Ups.

 

[Trainmaster]

All I've been able to find are aftermarket dipsticks with a couple of O-rings on the bottom end of the tube

I've been looking too and the aftermarket one available has a screw-in adapter for the tranny case and then the plastic dipstick tube is held into it with an "o" ring. Not safe enough for me.

 

[JExpedition07]

Honestly at 350k if that’s the original trans I’d be inclined to say leave it be

 

[bobmbx]

Honestly at 350k if that’s the original trans I’d be inclined to say leave it be

That will work as long as he doesn't change the way he drives, i.e.; starts drag racing or develops the need to start towing 8000 pound trailers around.

 

[drokmofo]

I have an 07 and have similar symptoms. Replaced plugs and cop's, still not right. Took it to exhaust shop to have backpressure tested and showed drivers side is bad. Passenger side is close to bad. Haven't replaced yet, been getting ready for son #2. Hoping to do it this Friday. I will update after.

 

[lbv150]

I've been trying to find an aftermarket trans dipstick for these, with the bottom end that screws into the transmission in place of the stubby dipstick cap. All I've been able to find are aftermarket dipsticks with a couple of O-rings on the bottom end of the tube.

I don't have a way to lift the truck up level, nor do I relish the idea of pumping trans fluid up and over into a small hole - for which I'd have to buy a pump, nor working with flammable trans fluid and my hand near a hot catalytic converter with the engine running while I'm under it. Feck that noise. I'll happily spend $ on an aftermarket dipstick. Might even install a drain plug in the trans pan.

I'd like to drop the pan to change the filter and whatever % of the fluid comes out that way. Then I'd put in a bottle of Lucas along with the new fluid. At 160K+ my 07 is getting just a little jerky sometimes once in a while on shifts. I've always had good results with the Lucas additive. Far as I've been able to find, the truck has never had the trans fluid changed.

My 97 Taurus has 92K when I bought it and it would SLAM into first when taking off from a stop. One fluid and filter change with one bottle of Lucas and it immediately improved, then over the course of several days use it quit slam shifting completely and has been fine since, now with over 108K miles. ('Course at 93K the engine pan gasket gave up, that was not a fun job but at least it was possible with only disconnecting the exhaust.)

Here is the dipstick kit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pma-pa68404

 

[mjp2]

B&M also makes a dipstick for the 6r80: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-22200

I installed that one on my truck and have had no issues. Everything at both ends is threaded down and uses o-rings. No chance of anything accidentally coming apart.