Ready Lift 3-2 kit installed with CCD suspension

[JayTee]

Stoked for you.
Unfortunately its not a matter of lock vs not.
The clearance from the center of the UCAs with the stock set up is less than an inch.
Add 305s to it and you cant even mount the wheels straight without pinching the tire.
Good luck!

 

[JOHN T FOSTER]

Hello all! I've been a lurker on this thread for a while, but I found the thread really helpful, so I thought I would post a picture of my wife's ride after the lift install. I installed the Readylift 3/2 on a 2019 Stealth Edition with CCD suspension. On the front struts, we used a spring compressor to allow us to loosen and rotate the top flange 180 degrees to fix the issue regarding the electronic solenoids on the struts, and avoid reinstalling the strut with the solenoids facing out. On the rear we simply swapped the left and right side struts after the lift spacers where installed. Following the OP, we used the iPhone measurement tool and installed the adjustable sensor position arms following his advice. Finally, we used 1.25" BORA wheel spacers (does require trimming the studs, but nothing to be afraid of...) which allowed for a 325/50R22 (roughly 34.5" x 12.8" R22) tire after a little trimming of the fender well. We also trimmed the automatic running boards 3" on each side, although I'm not positive this was necessary at all, and certainly 3" was not, but it looks fine. To trim them, remove them from the truck, use a chop saw to cut, and replace the plastic end cap.

 

[sanman28]

Hello all! I've been a lurker on this thread for a while, but I found the thread really helpful, so I thought I would post a picture of my wife's ride after the lift install. I installed the Readylift 3/2 on a 2019 Stealth Edition with CCD suspension. On the front struts, we used a spring compressor to allow us to loosen and rotate the top flange 180 degrees to fix the issue regarding the electronic solenoids on the struts, and avoid reinstalling the strut with the solenoids facing out. On the rear we simply swapped the left and right side struts after the lift spacers where installed. Following the OP, we used the iPhone measurement tool and installed the adjustable sensor position arms following his advice. Finally, we used 1.25" BORA wheel spacers (does require trimming the studs, but nothing to be afraid of...) which allowed for a 325/50R22 (roughly 34.5" x 12.8" R22) tire after a little trimming of the fender well. We also trimmed the automatic running boards 3" on each side, although I'm not positive this was necessary at all, and certainly 3" was not, but it looks fine. To trim them, remove them from the truck, use a chop saw to cut, and replace the plastic end cap.

View attachment 34046

looks sharp. Now remove that front plastic air damn

 

[Miekk]

I’ve never found the measuring app to be accurate at all. That’s 5-5/16”. I either get 5" or 5-1/2". Where's the setting to get 1/16" accuracy?
Maybe for these sensors it doesn't matter, but it sure does on the rear bagged trucks.

 

[JOHN T FOSTER]

looks sharp. Now remove that front plastic air damn

Ha! I actually already have. Easiest way to get a 2" lift.

 

[StealthyBulldog]

Hello all! I've been a lurker on this thread for a while, but I found the thread really helpful, so I thought I would post a picture of my wife's ride after the lift install. I installed the Readylift 3/2 on a 2019 Stealth Edition with CCD suspension. On the front struts, we used a spring compressor to allow us to loosen and rotate the top flange 180 degrees to fix the issue regarding the electronic solenoids on the struts, and avoid reinstalling the strut with the solenoids facing out. On the rear we simply swapped the left and right side struts after the lift spacers where installed. Following the OP, we used the iPhone measurement tool and installed the adjustable sensor position arms following his advice. Finally, we used 1.25" BORA wheel spacers (does require trimming the studs, but nothing to be afraid of...) which allowed for a 325/50R22 (roughly 34.5" x 12.8" R22) tire after a little trimming of the fender well. We also trimmed the automatic running boards 3" on each side, although I'm not positive this was necessary at all, and certainly 3" was not, but it looks fine. To trim them, remove them from the truck, use a chop saw to cut, and replace the plastic end cap.

View attachment 34046

Do you happen to have any more pics? Maybe even a shot of what all you had to cut away to get full range of motion, thanks! Looks great

 

[Dakota4ce]

Just did Friday. Traxda lift, 285/55R22 Ridge Grapplers. CCD. Stock linkages, rides identically from what I can tell.....[emoji2373]


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[Lou Hamilton]

Just did Friday. Traxda lift, 285/55R22 Ridge Grapplers. CCD. Stock linkages, rides identically from what I can tell.....[emoji2373]


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Looks really nice. Did you just get the front/rear lift kit right from Traxda? That is a similar look as I want on my stealth.

I don't have the right equipment, so I would need to find someone who could do it for me.

 

[Dakota4ce]

Looks really nice. Did you just get the front/rear lift kit right from Traxda? That is a similar look as I want on my stealth.

I don't have the right equipment, so I would need to find someone who could do it for me.

Yessir, the front and rear kit. As stated by another member here who just hooked up the stock CCD links, I really cannot tell the ride difference at all. Rides great. Also, the CCD wiring was plenty long to accommodate the struts being rotated, so the tech did not switch sides.

I also don't have the equipment, so my tire shop did it. It's not rocket science by any means. They charged me strut job labor, about $400. Fine with me!

 

[Miekk]

As stated by another member here who just hooked up the stock CCD links, I really cannot tell the ride difference at all.

Do us a favor and take a picture of the ride height sensors with the truck up in the air with the suspension hanging. I want to see the angle of the arm with stock links. They have to be getting close to end of travel.

 

[Lou Hamilton]

Yessir, the front and rear kit. As stated by another member here who just hooked up the stock CCD links, I really cannot tell the ride difference at all. Rides great. Also, the CCD wiring was plenty long to accommodate the struts being rotated, so the tech did not switch sides.

I also don't have the equipment, so my tire shop did it. It's not rocket science by any means. They charged me strut job labor, about $400. Fine with me!

That is the other thing. I need to find a shop that I can trust.

In the past, I got my tires from a truck shop... and by truck shop, I mean commercial and big rig truck tire shop.

I know it is not rocket science, but I would like to find a shop that is at least familiar with the Expedition and its suspension. My Trick Truck custom shop has never touched an Expedition so they were hesitant to do anything other that swap tires and put a 10mm spacer to help prevent rubbing.

 

[Dakota4ce]

That is the other thing. I need to find a shop that I can trust.

In the past, I got my tires from a truck shop... and by truck shop, I mean commercial and big rig truck tire shop.

I know it is not rocket science, but I would like to find a shop that is at least familiar with the Expedition and its suspension. My Trick Truck custom shop has never touched an Expedition so they were hesitant to do anything other that swap tires and put a 10mm spacer to help prevent rubbing.

It is as easy as doing a strut change. More or less.

 

[Dakota4ce]

Do us a favor and take a picture of the ride height sensors with the truck up in the air with the suspension hanging. I want to see the angle of the arm with stock links. They have to be getting close to end of travel.

I don't have a hoist, unfortunately. I suppose I could jack it up and grab some jack stands.

 

[Dakota4ce]

Do us a favor and take a picture of the ride height sensors with the truck up in the air with the suspension hanging. I want to see the angle of the arm with stock links. They have to be getting close to end of travel.

I disconnected the linkage that doesn’t appear the sensor arm has a bottom limit. There is no positive stop moving down.

Isn’t it just a speed and amplitude of deflection measurement anyway? Like a potentiometer?

Forgive me, not an expert on this stuff by any stretch.


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[Fozzy]

There is plenty of physical travel. They move over 180 degrees. The question is how much of it is data logged. If you watch the Fusion pothole video the sensor detects the wheel falling into the pothole and increases the rebound dampening keeping the tire from going all the way into the pothole. This smooths out the ride. The sensors do not act like a bypass shock. Meaning there is no set position directly related to the dampening or rebound characteristics of the shock and its shaft position.


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[Dakota4ce]

There is plenty of physical travel. They move over 180 degrees. The question is how much of it is data logged. If you watch the Fusion pothole video the sensor detects the wheel falling into the pothole and increases the rebound dampening keeping the tire from going all the way into the pothole. This smooths out the ride. The sensors do not act like a bypass shock. Meaning there is no set position directly related to the dampening or rebound characteristics of the shock and its shaft position.


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As of a couple hundred miles this weekend, I cannot sense any sort of change. But I am all ears if someone finds otherwise...I would think the major parameters are speed and amplitude and if it senses large values in either, the computer makes the change.

Certainly not opposed to adjustable linkages, just not sure in this case they're needed. I do know of other vehicles where this would certainly result in drastic ride quality changes.

 

[michman0969]

Ready lift 3/2 worked great with the adjustable CCD links from ebay!
My end result was nearly on at an after measurement of 2.75 inch front and 1.75on rear.



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[Miekk]

I disconnected the linkage that doesn’t appear the sensor arm has a bottom limit. There is no positive stop moving down.

Isn’t it just a speed and amplitude of deflection measurement anyway? Like a potentiometer?

You are correct, there is no positive stop. However they are designed to be at a 90° TT angle or three or 9 o’clock positions. The closer you get the sensor arm in line with the link, the more sporadic the movements going to be, sending quick data changes to your computer for readings.

I make the censor links adjustable mainly because I started out building these or we are bagged expeditions. If these only need to be a new length and the truck doesn’t care where zero is, I can certainly build them solid which would save everybody some $.

 

[Dakota4ce]

You are correct, there is no positive stop. However they are designed to be at a 90° TT angle or three or 9 o’clock positions. The closer you get the sensor arm in line with the link, the more sporadic the movements going to be, sending quick data changes to your computer for readings.

I make the censor links adjustable mainly because I started out building these or we are bagged expeditions. If these only need to be a new length and the truck doesn’t care where zero is, I can certainly build them solid which would save everybody some $.

On the front sensor as pictured, the arm cannot physically get to 90 degrees (9 o'clock). It hits its own mounting bracket before it can get to that position...like appears to be well short of able to hit 9 o'clock. How does that figure into this, if at all?

 

[Miekk]

On the front sensor as pictured, the arm cannot physically get to 90 degrees (9 o'clock). It hits its own mounting bracket before it can get to that position...like appears to be well short of able to hit 9 o'clock. How does that figure into this, if at all?

The farther you get from 90°, the quicker more sporadic the reading change is going to be back to the computer. It’s as if you were going from a bumpy road to a washboard road.
All I’m trying to do is get the sensors back to the original engineered factory design operating location and range.
You certainly might get by cheating it, just remember; you can cheat on your wife too, but it’s not recommended and typically has a consequence or two....