42" Lightbar Installed

[RANDAL CHAO]

Installed a 42" lightbar in front of the grill. So far pretty happy about the result.
If interested, I will share more details.
Cheers, -R

 

[JEFF WISECARVER]

How do you have it connected?

 

[RANDAL CHAO]

The photo album is here:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/zcw9u6pgVgxbEga48

Brief Summary:
- Bolt brackets (facing inward) to plastic platform just under the grill. The plastic platform is hollow but two layers about 1" apart, Sturdy enough for the pretty light weight lightbar
- Light bar is not that deep, the curve hugs the grill curve pretty well. Leave enough space for the air flow. And not protruding the front bumper.
- Route the wire behind grill, tucked to the side, not in the way radiator shutter.
- Zip tie rest of harness in the engine compartment.
- Route remote switch wire through firewall using existing conduit. (Don't bother punching a new hole, such a pain).
- Super glue the switch next to DRL switch panel.
- Front proximity sensor works. So not an issue
- Tried several brand 42" light bar. This one fits well: 1. light weight 2. Only 1" deep from anchor bolt, so can be anchored to the platform just below the grill. 3. The brackets are reversible (with locking marks on both sides) Can be installed facing inward to sace space
- Total cost: $80 OEDRO light bar; $10 2.5" bolt/locking nut/washer accessories; 2 hours installation time.

Downside:
- Block the front camera a bit. So if you depend on front camera to feel the front space. This may not work.

 

[LokiWolf]

Got any night pics?

 

[RANDAL CHAO]

It will be too bright to take meaningful pictures. I can however take a video this evening and show the effect when turning this on/off compared to hi/lo beam. The light bar has very good coverage probably over 100 yard. Don't think it focus well beyond that. For the price, I am satisfied with the result.

 

[RANDAL CHAO]

Video comparison: Lo-beam vs Lightbar; Hi-beam vs Lightbar

Warning: Only use lightbar in off-road condition.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/NEkEQX4qqQrBEyup7

 

[Expedition Dave]

Nice one RC!
Neighbor be like: "Now my Dog will never poop, he's at it with the lights again..."

 

[Anthony DeVor]

Nice job, I love the look of it - does anyone have any ideas for the same thing but on a 3rd gen (2017) expy my dad says no but I'm obviously going to put one since its my vehicle I just cant make up my mind for if I want to do a license plate mount one (22" like I had on my jeep), one behind the grille, or a slim light bar off of the roof racks. Any comments would be appreciated thanks

 

[Big H]

Nice job, I love the look of it - does anyone have any ideas for the same thing but on a 3rd gen (2017) expy my dad says no but I'm obviously going to put one since its my vehicle I just cant make up my mind for if I want to do a license plate mount one (22" like I had on my jeep), one behind the grille, or a slim light bar off of the roof racks. Any comments would be appreciated thanks

I got mine from F-150 LEDs and it’s amazing. Also has a wireless module and strobe functionality. It’s pricey, but worth every penny. Took about an hour to install and wires up to battery.

It’s ignorantly bright, can be operated from outside the vehicle with remote, and the curve is perfect for the bumper. I also reverse mounted the brackets to make it tamper / theft proof and look better after install. Lights up the road in front over a football field length and very thin, doesn’t go past the lowest vent in grill.








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[Fozzy]

Big H,
I love your set up. Just looked it up. $340.00 is super cheap compared to Baja Design or Rigid. I was going to get the LGE-CTS bar that goes in the lower grill insert, but was concerned with the cooling since I tow all the time. This looks like a great place to have a good light, easy install and not a huge impact on airflow. Great find. Ordered one up. Thanks.


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[SublimeHiPpOs]

I wonder how well it would work if you tapped into the high beam circuit to activate the lightbar. The Expy seems to do well with automatically activating/deactivating them, it would be cool it it worked well with a lightbar too. I'd definitely want to still have a toggle switch for times you don't want it on, even when the high beams are on.

 

[Deadman]

I love that mine is hidden.

 

[Deadman]

on

 

[Big H]

Big H,
I love your set up. Just looked it up. $340.00 is super cheap compared to Baja Design or Rigid. I was going to get the LGE-CTS bar that goes in the lower grill insert, but was concerned with the cooling since I tow all the time. This looks like a great place to have a good light, easy install and not a huge impact on airflow. Great find. Ordered one up. Thanks.


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Thx Fozzy.

I did a bit of research on Rigid but found this Palladian light to be better for my mounting and application. I also wanted the remote and strobe function.

Airflow was important to me since I am running the 5Star tune, and summer heat. I was able to route the wire in front of the air dams and under the Right headlight.

Next up will be the hood mounted cube lights they have for $190. Hopefully they mount as easily as the light bar.


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[Fozzy]

Thanks to BigH I just received my 36” light bar. It was packaged nice and secure. It’s a complete kit, even has a few zip ties. Build quality is pretty good. Wire harness is 14 gauge. Should be 10-12, but for this small light it will be fine. The best part is the curve of the bar fits perfect. I put it on my 17’ Superduty and the Expy and they have the same curve. This light is for a F-150. Kinda funny all three have the same radius front lip on top of the bumper. Hopefully I get time over Christmas to install it and see how it performs.






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[sjwhiteley]

What makes you think you need 12 gauge wire? I can’t see the light pulling more than a couple of amps, in which case 16 gauge (or even 18/20) is more than plenty. Is it a high ampage light?

 

[RANDAL CHAO]

Just a reminder that the top part of plastic platform is not level, with a slight downward angel to the front. You might need an angled spacer/washer I didn't realize that until afterward.

Also since it is hollow inside, if you do bother to take off the front bumper, I would suggest put a plastic spacer to fill in between top/bottom layer.

 

[Fozzy]

What makes you think you need 12 gauge wire? I can’t see the light pulling more than a couple of amps, in which case 16 gauge (or even 18/20) is more than plenty. Is it a high ampage light?

Most high end off road light manufacturers recommend 12 gauge wire. Long wire runs, sunset to sunrise operation and a more robust cable. Why not? China lights often have way less. I have not cut the harness off yet, but the fuse wire is 14, it may get smaller. If I remember right the math would be 180w/12v=15a. Not 2a. 14 is fine, but the light is 3 times the cost of an Amazon one and way cheaper compared to a BD or Rigid. The fit to the bumper and grill is what sold me. Hope to use it as a driving light. So it doesn’t need to be a crazy BD light.


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[Big H]

Most high end off road light manufacturers recommend 12 gauge wire. Long wire runs, sunset to sunrise operation and a more robust cable. Why not? China lights often have way less. I have not cut the harness off yet, but the fuse wire is 14, it may get smaller. If I remember right the math would be 180w/12v=15a. Not 2a. 14 is fine, but the light is 3 times the cost of an Amazon one and way cheaper compared to a BD or Rigid. The fit to the bumper and grill is what sold me. Hope to use it as a driving light. So it doesn’t need to be a crazy BD light.


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Hey Fozzy,

It’s super bright man, it literally lights up the length of a football field. It overpowers the led high beams on my truck, and is a whiter light output; between 5000-5500K.

I get flashes from oncoming traffic all the time if I forget to switch it off lol I actually angled it down for that reason.


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[Big H]

Just a reminder that the top part of plastic platform is not level, with a slight downward angel to the front. You might need an angled spacer/washer I didn't realize that until afterward.

Also since it is hollow inside, if you do bother to take off the front bumper, I would suggest put a plastic spacer to fill in between top/bottom layer.

View attachment 39283

That’s correct, I backed my bolts with SS washers about the size of a quarter and used two retaining bolts; one plain and another that was self locking (with that plastic stuff in center). Also used longer bolts than were provided to go through 2 levels of the bumper. A bit of overkill but worth the headache.


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