battery drained in 3 days

[truckguy]

I recently replaced the IMRC, at the same time replaced spark plugs, serpentine belt and cylinder head temp sensor:
https://www.expeditionforum.com/thr...n-intake-manifold-runner-control-stuck.45688/
Drove it for 80 miles each day on 2 consecutive days with no problem. Then parked in drive way for 3 days and yesterday found out that the battery had completely drained. Today I jump started it and drove it around for 30 min with no problem.

Did not have the battery drain problem before the IMRC thing. I wonder if I forgot to plug something when reinstalling things.

Also noticed the cd changer clicking in constant intervals during the 2 days I drove it (maybe every 10 min or so). That thing had been bad ever since I got the car. I remember before the IMRC job it would click when I start the car, but then it'll be quiet for the drive.

 

[coupe11]

How old is the battery?

I recently had an issue with my truck. Drive it every day? No issue. Let is sit a week and I'd have to put a battery charger on it for some time before it would start. Drive it somewhere, shop, it would start right up and drive home. Let it sit a week, no start till I charged the battery up again.

I was trying to find out what was draining the battery and having no luck when I noticed the sticker on the battery said "1/14". The battery was nearly 8 years old. Bought a new battery and installed it. Problem solved.

If it was an everyday driver I might not have noticed a problem till it just failed completely.

Had I disconnected the battery to insure no drain from problems with the vehicle electrical systems and then put a voltmeter on it every day I might have seen it drop over time. Just never got around to doing that before I saw the sticker on the battery.

 

[truckguy]

The battery is about a year old. So I was thinking it should still be good.

 

[Yupster Dog]

The battery is about a year old. So I was thinking it should still be good.

Any power drain (especially below 9 volts) you have hurt your new battery do that three times and your new battery is really not reliable. These are not your phone batteries,(run all the way to dead) Your batteries for starting are meant to be fully charged at all times. So any big battery drain is a huge wound on the life expectancy. No matter what brand of starter battery

 

[truckguy]

After parking the car for 8 hours, the battery was gone again. Looks like I'll have to try a new battery.

 

[Yupster Dog]

Also noticed the cd changer clicking

See if you can fix that by getting cd's out or pull the fuse for it so it will stop. maybe that your drain. I have heard of a lot of different things that drain the battery on this forum but the top two are rear wiper and cd stuck.

 

[truckguy]

Today I tested with a multimeter following this excellent video:

I saw that my passive draw was 220 mA. I have not figured out which component is the cause of this yet. For now, I'm disconnecting the negative battery connector every time I park it.

 

[coupe11]

Usually places like Advance Auto and Auto Zone (in my area - you'll have to check in your area) will do a battery test/check. They hook up a small load tester and use that to see if your battery has the "endurance" it needs. I've seen batteries show 13 volts or so on a volt meter, then when you hit the start switch that will drop off to 8 or 8&1/2 volts and all you get is a click on the solenoid.

And, if the battery is that new, what kind of warranty do you have on it. Some batteries come with 2 to 3 year warranties. Might not replace it free, but might exchange it for partial cost on a new one.

And, my brother told me that awhile back he went to a parts store to get a new battery for his truck. The store employee brought it out, removed the old battery, installed the new one and my brother got in and hit the key. Nothing. The guy put a meter on the battery and it had died right then/there. The guy went back in, got another battery and installed it and everything was fine. New doesn't always mean it will work correctly.

 

[Trainmaster]

Don't throw parts at the problem. Check out the system for any unwanted draw first. Beware of auto part stores "battery tests". They're like asking a barber if you need a haircut.

Get a schematic and pull each fuse until the draw is gone. Then troubleshoot. I'd start with the radio and rear wiper.

Either learn to do the troubleshooting yourself or pay someone who knows how. Blindly replacing stuff is just silly.

 

[Aspen03]

220ma is fairly significant and will keep killing batteries.

Trainmaster is on the right track, wiper and radio are common issues. The fact you stated your cd changer has a bad attitude lately points to an obvious place to start.

Do you have anything aftermarket installed like lights, remote start, alarm?

 

[truckguy]

220ma is fairly significant and will keep killing batteries.

Trainmaster is on the right track, wiper and radio are common issues. The fact you stated your cd changer has a bad attitude lately points to an obvious place to start.

Do you have anything aftermarket installed like lights, remote start, alarm?

No after market stuff as far as I know

 

[Aspen03]

If its a new to you vehicle or you have just never had a reason to look pop your head up under the dash and see if something looks like it "doesn't belong". If it were an aftermarket remote start or bypass module (i think they are possible on some 3rd gens) you'll see a rectangular box about the size of a hand or if a bypass maybe the size of a deck of cards w a harness and typically quite a few wires coming out. Bypass would primarily have small 20-22g wires and a full fledged remote start would have a mix of probably 14-22ga. Going to several different points.

Its not terribly common but if a relay were to fail that usually energizes ignition or otherwise that could cause a decent drain. The guy I bought my 03 off of had no idea it had an aftermarket remote start. He never received a fob from original owner and wasn't a technical person by any means and had never looked under there. I popped 1 of the original factory keys out of the wrap that was installed under the dash and he was like wow I paid for one like 6 years ago. He assumed the antenna for the system was a factory thing, despite it looking sorely out of place.

Ford is usually decent at wrapping up most all harnesses, you won't see much wire just hanging about, it also tends to be fairly well secured to various parts of the dash frame. If something is there you'll zero in on it pretty quick I imagine.

 

[os1kne]

I'd definitely go to Autozone / AdvanceAuto / Pep Boys, etc. to have them test your battery and charging system. It's probably free. Good luck.

 

[chuck s]

Load test the battery. I had to replace the battery on my 20,000 mile 2017 a couple of months ago. Fords eat batteries for some reason. Remote locks, radio memory, and other things always pulling power.

Your battery will probably fail load testing due to damage from severe discharge just sitting there.

Do your parasitic electrical testing again. Start pulling fuses and see where the draw is. Clicking CD player is my first suspect.

-- Chuck

 

[lbv150]

You might be able to save the battery if you put a decent battery charger on it for a few days. Jumping it and running the engine will not charge a battery. I'm a dealer for Interstate and you would not believe the customer cores I have running in my stuff for years. Yes some are truly shot, but like the op here some are fairly new with plenty of life left all they need is TLC and a proper charge.

Getting back to the original problem...on my '16 Expy I have a waterproof marine battery charger permanently installed near the battery and keep it plugged in when not driving it. There is a large parasitic drain on these new systems.

 

[chuck s]

Ford has had large parasitic electrical draws for ever.

I went so far as putting a Priority Start on my '02 Explorer and '07 Expeditions as the battery could die over a long weekend. Non switched 12v "cigarette lighter" outlet and a device or two plugged doesn't help and easy to forget unplugging them. I've also resorted to a switch on the battery if I have to park at the airport for a couple of weeks but I hate the "relearn" the car has to do afterwards.

I have battery charger pigtails on all three of my car batteries since they're getting very few miles during the pandemic.

-- Chuck

 

[coupe11]

Well, I'm going to jinx my Expedition here and say that it sits for a couple weeks at a time and so far it starts right up when I turn the key.

Not telling my wife I just typed that, she'll remind me of it if I have to go buy a battery in the next few weeks.

 

[chuck s]

My '17 did sit at the airport for two weeks in 2018 and (once I remembered where I'd parked!) started right away on return. That battery died a couple of months ago after dying several times parked in my driveway last year and not being driven often as we sheltered in place during this pandemic. I estimate the battery was 4 years old. The battery in my wife's 2014 Subaru was replaced last summer after 6 years and the one in my Honda was replaced a couple of months ago after maybe 4 years. Lots of parasitic battery loads are taking their toll with the low mileage driven the past year and dispute occasional manual battery charging.

I put AGMs in the Ford and Subaru. Will see how long they live.

-- Chuck

 

[Mmart]

The lockdowns this year took a toll on both my batteries. I was able to recharge the battery in my Taurus and kept it but the battery in my 2010 EB gave out for good around May. Just too much sitting, it got to the point that just leaving it parked for a few days caused me to need a jump start. I have had the truck for just about 3 yrs and that’s the battery that came with it. I bought an AGM battery since I had such good results with the one I put in my motorcycle I figured it was worth it for the vehicle I depend on the most.

 

[donsmrs]

I recently replaced the IMRC, at the same time replaced spark plugs, serpentine belt and cylinder head temp sensor:
https://www.expeditionforum.com/thr...n-intake-manifold-runner-control-stuck.45688/
Drove it for 80 miles each day on 2 consecutive days with no problem. Then parked in drive way for 3 days and yesterday found out that the battery had completely drained. Today I jump started it and drove it around for 30 min with no problem.

Did not have the battery drain problem before the IMRC thing. I wonder if I forgot to plug something when reinstalling things.

Also noticed the cd changer clicking in constant intervals during the 2 days I drove it (maybe every 10 min or so). That thing had been bad ever since I got the car. I remember before the IMRC job it would click when I start the car, but then it'll be quiet for the drive.